1987 Audi Coupe GT review from North America

No major failures.

Welcome to the world of the "Type 85" Audi Coupe GT (based on the B2 platform). Yeah, it's not going to be the fastest thing around, but it will be fun. That 2.2 ltr inline 5 cylinder engine has GREAT low end torque. My 1987 CGT "Special Build" has the 2.3 ltr high compression "NG" engine which makes 130 hp, but has less low end torque.

All 1987 CGTs in the USA came with a digital dash. You can tell whether yours is a Special Build based on some of the special things these cars had. They came with 4 wheel disk brakes, body colored spoiler bumpers and B pillars, and the 2.3 ltr NG engine instead of the 2.2 ltr KX engine (and lots of other minor changes). You can identify the NG by the word AUDI stamped into the squared off intake manifold. The KX didn't say Audi on it and was rounded. If you happen to have a Special Build, count yourself as lucky. They are a rare beast, more rare than an UrQ. Only about 1,600 were produced, 850 imported into the USA, and who knows how many are left.

The CGT was voted as one of the best handling cars in America back in its day. It really handles better than almost anything else from the mid 80s, very tossable, lots of fun.

Mileage really matters little to the engine or transmission. There are plenty of 2.2s & 2.3s with well over 200,000 miles on them that still run like new and have never had major work done. But oil changes are very important to the car. If the oil isn't changed on time (3,000 miles, always use either a Mann, Bosch, or Audi OEM filter) the hydraulic lifters will tick like crazy. This is caused by lower oil pressure than is needed to fully pump up the lifters. Lifter tick is considered normal for up to about a minute after start-up. The clutch should, if not abused, be good until almost 200,000 miles. The trannie itself has Audi 5000 internals and is known for being next to indestructible.

Overall the drive train is pretty much bulletproof on the CGT.

A loppy/unstable idle is also an common issue with these cars. It is usually caused by a faulty "Idle Stabilizer Valve." But the good news is that many times, the valve isn't bad, it's just really dirty and so gummed up it cannot open/close fast enough to control the idle properly. The valve gets gummed up because of its exposure to exhaust gasses looped back by the EGR. It's easy to clean, you just pop it out, spray it down with LOTS of throttle body cleaner (like fill it with the cleaner), scrub it out a bit with an old tooth brush, actuate it a bunch of times (by intermittently applying 12 volts to it) then flush it again with even more throttle body cleaner, repeat until you can see that it's clean and the cleaner comes out clear (instead of black). A rough, but stable idle can be attributed to the need for a tune-up. First just try changing the plugs, if still rough, change the cap and rotor button. If still rough change the plug wires (about $60USA for German wires with loom).

As far as things to look for, check the normal stuff. There are a few things that could be "issues." The window regulators (if equipped with power windows) are famous for failure. They use wire cable to lift the window.

These wire frequently fray and eventually fail from lack of lubrication. The first sign of problems is slow operation. If they move slowly, or pause while moving, remove the regulator and lube the heck out of the wire and meal track and reinstall, keep your fingers crossed. if the regulators have already failed, there is no rebuild kit, they will have to be replaced. New units from Audi are almost $500! But decent used ones can be found for under $150. Stay away from aftermarket ones, from what I've heard they have problems with binding due to the unusual curvature of the window glass.

Window switches and power mirror switches are also known to fail. If you are going through regulators on a regular basis, replace you felt window liner seals (the ones that the window ride up on. As they age and the soft felt part wears, friction increases greatly, overloading the regulator and eventually causing cable failure. Not hard or too expensive to replace.

One note of caution, almost all of the power equipment (windows, locks, cruise control, etc.) are vacuum operated. So vacuum leaks may cause the accessories not to work. As I'm sure you know, vacuum leaks can be a pain to track down.

There really aren't many other CGT related issues. Look for things like signs of accidents (that one got me, mine was cracked into in 1991, but the repair is quality and the damage wasn't bad). If the shocks are bad, don't worry, they are pretty cheap. The most common upgrade is to put on Boge TurboGas struts/shocks, which are about 15% stiffer than stock and have a lifetime warranty. They run to about $250-$280 for a set of 4. Labor is a bit high at 5.7 hours for install (but most mechanics can get it done in 3 flat). Look for tired ball joints (play), and worn bushings (cracked). Most of the suspension bushings are pressed in and are pretty cheap to replace if bad (unlike the ones on the Passat). If you are in the USA, don't expect much from the DOT headlights. They use a pathetic reflector and a pitiful 9004 bulb. If high quality lighting is important to you, you can get Euro lights easily for the car. They are available in H4 and H4/H1 style.

CGTs are becoming increasingly rare in the USA and nice ones are getting very hard to find. Even ragged out ones are frequently selling at or above book value. Mine needed quite a bit of work, book value said &$1,750 if it didn't need any work, but the guy wouldn't go lower than $2,000. From what I've heard, many others have had to buy cars that need work for above book.

Well, what I had intended to be a short note of encouragement has turned into a novel. Sorry for being so long winded. I hope all this info helps.