Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-72
My mom gave me a 1996 Blazer LT to drive as my first vehicle. I wish, however, that she would have kept her 93' LT1 T-top, 6-speed firebird for me to have, but it couldn't handle an inch of snow and I live in the Midwest so I guess the past is the past. This blazer has been a lemon since day one. Multiple recalls, one that involves metal plating to be inserted over the gas tank so that it wouldn't rupture on impact. Also some ABS recalls that seemed to cause the brakes to grab more in the front. My mom wore the front brakes down around 20K and I had the rotors turned, was lucky enough to remain in tolerance and didn't have to purchase new ones. Air bag light went on around 30K, multiple trips to the "customer service" (sounds like an oxymoron) department at a GM dealer turns up it is a bad ground in the front sensors. Shortly after, the leather driver seat starts to rip around the electric control switches. Easily solved by buying a sheep skin seat cover. I put an after market exhaust system on as soon after I got it and it immediately has a "take off delay" problem where the vehicle would stall a little or die when the accelerator was pushed from a stop. After about a year and a half of asking around I fix the problem by installing a new full pump (not cheap), which requires you to buy the whole assembly not just the pump. What a rip off. The transmission dipstick and tube rusts, I buy a new dip stick and flush the transmission (bad idea). A transmission repair technician told me that flushing knocks larger pieces of debris loose inside the transmission causing more problems, its best to just change the filter and fluid. I don't pay for the work to replace the tube because it requires about 800 bucks worth of labor since they have to drop the transmission. I still of pieces of rust in visible when I check the fluid level. The 2WD light push button light goes out, it costs about 40 for a new one so I just leave it. It sometimes shifts into 4wd with out me even touching it. The break booster went out around 70K and causes the vehicle to stall again. The upper oil cooler lines start leaking, and I had those replaced. The lower ones are leaking, but require the engine to be jacked up one side to fix so I fix that by just adding more oil. The 105-amp "heavy duty" alternator burns out probably due to my 12-inch subs and I use a 160-amp rebuild kit to repair it. The tube around the 3rd break light breaks and flies off in a car wash leaving me with the diodes exposed. (Again due to the subs) Almost 200 dollars to buy a new taillight assembly so I just use silicon to glue and seal the tube back on. I also have had an intermittent starting problem during the winter where the battery would die if not driven for a couple days (No, I didn't leave a light or something on and I took out my subs before hand) I checked the started, but still haven't found the problem; I now have a 300-amp emergency starter kit I carry around. The heater core gums up around 50K and required multiple flushes, one by the dealer and one by a friend, before it would work again. Check radiator constantly to ensure that the orange sh*t doesn't fowl up my engine and give me a blown motor. Most recently, I replaced idler arm since the spring was pushing it apart so it wouldn't fly apart while on the road. My AC stopped working in the summer of 2003 and now the bearings and/or the clutch are going out on the compressor. I can't afford the repair right now so I bought the bearing and planned on repairing it myself, but I guess it requires a special tool now to pull the assembly apart? If anyone has any ideas how to email me at: drooby1@hotmail.com. Could also possibly signify low coolant pressure. I also have to change the front pads a lot and clean the rear drums, but I still can't get the brakes to quit squeaking. The aluminum rims rust around the edges causing the tires to leak a lot more than normal, but I cleaned them with a wire wheel and now the beads seat just fine. I have also had the fan clutch and thermostat replaced multiple times. My rear and front engine seals are now leaking, but not bad enough to replace. I have always kept good car, changing the oil every 3000 or sooner and constantly refereeing to the maintenance schedule. Most of these problems may be normal wear, but my main complaint is how hard it is to work on any of these "normal repairs" that require a lot more work than what they are worth, and also how bad GM is about repairing them. I love GM products, but the S-series line is a joke (at least back when my blazer was made), and it still wasn't cheap to buy. I hope the new generation of GM vehicles will be worth my money, but they don't look promising with the brand new integrated circuits they are starting to use. It seems to me that they are using cheaper parts to save a few dollars at the cost of a lot of their customers. I just hope that my Blazer lasts me 5 more years at school since I can't afford anything else right now. Too bad they did away with the firebirds, I might still be tempted to get the GTO or SSR, but who knows now.
I also own a 1996 Chevy Blazer LT. I bought it used a couple of years ago with 120K on it. Had I known then what I know now, I would have taken out a bit higher loan for the Jeep that I really wanted, but the wife said I couldn't have. I constantly have problems with this hunk of junk, including a fuel pump I just replaced. $475 for a little piece of plastic that broke, and the pump wasn't even bad! Bad engineering! Bad! Now I'm having more and more issues with it. I have a feeling the serpentine belt is worn to the point of failure, so I'm borrowing my sister in laws Focus while shes in Florida. I can't wait till I can trade this POS in on a newer Ford or Toyota or even a Honda!
Didn't see anything about 1998 Blazers LT and thought you would all want to know that things haven't gotten any better. Alternator at 18,000, first transmission replacement at 20,000, problem with rear hatch (kept popping open even if car was in garage... light came on... battery died...car won't run). After 2 years of complaining and going from dealer to dealer with no response - well, actually they told me I was crazy... I found a good dealer who told me the problem was the computer chip in the remote entry program... he replaced it for quite a few $$$ but I haven't had the problem since... THEN transmission went again at 80,000. Replaced it (no longer under warranty of course) then front shocks had to be replaced, serious problems with the engine (kept overheating). Took care of that... again with $$$$$$$. Everything was going along well until I started hearing the blinkers even though they weren't on... multifunction whatever in the steering column... a lot of $$$ but not as bad as the transmission. It seems as though I can drive this for a while longer (133,700 miles) because it has all new parts... probably shouldn't have said that out loud... I have 40 miles to drive to get home... Chevy USA service has never been too friendly either... left me sitting in an intersection for over 2 hours... called them 8 times... they were concerned because they kept asking me if I was in a "safe location" - I'd say "no" and they'd say "okay we'll be right there - we're on our way"...finally called a tow truck on my own.
I find it astonishing that some people simply expect their vehicles to go go go as long as they put gas in that little hole in the side. I can say this because I know it to be completely true in most cases.
I am an ASE Certified Master Technician, former Assistant Service Manager, Service Advisor, and Lead Diagnostic Technician, 94 Tahoe LT owner, and an avid Off-Roader.
First: Ball joints wear out; faster on vehicles in metro areas. See, the ball joints flex and turn TENS of THOUSANDS of times per drive cycle. A majority of vehicle owners, or the person responsible for a family's vehicle maintenance, take their vehicles to the local quickie-lube shop for maintenance. At that shop, an 18-year-old that probably doesn't know how to, or doesn't worry about, performing maintenance on his own vehicle, if he even has one, is inspecting their, or your, vehicle (s). Little Johnny Oil Pan doesn't worry about how many Zerk fittings you have on your suspension, steering, and drive-train components. He's concentrating more on keeping all his check marks in a straight row, as the upper management is eyeing him for Store Supervisor.
Second: Belt Tensioners and Serpentine belts wear out. They both oscillate TENS of THOUSANDS of times per drive cycle. Little Johnny can look at your tensioner and see that the little arrows on top are close to or at the maximum limits (Belt Stretch). A stretched serp. belt can cause a tensioner to wear more rapidly by causing undue vibration that loads against said tensioner. Guess what else will wear out on the drive belt system; the belt idler pulley (s).
Third: Brake Pads and Shoes, Filters, Hoses, Wiper Blades, Shocks, Ball Joints, Control Arm Bushings, Transmission Fluid, Brake Fluid, Engine Coolant, Engine Oil, and even Power Steering Fluid NEED TO BE CHANGED OR REPLACED. These items are termed "Wearable Items", meaning that they can, and will eventually wear out, break down, degrade, and can even be consumed (fluids) because of lack of, or, improper performance of maintenance. I haven't even mentioned gaskets, seals, weatherstripping, clutches; the list is just too long.
I believe it is imperative that any person who owns, drives, rides in, or will be buying a vehicle educates him or herself on proper vehicle maintenance. You can find books, videos, and other information detailing proper vehicle maintenance. High schools and colleges offer automotive courses that teach the basics of car care. You don't have to be an automotive expert, but it doesn't hurt to ask the right questions.
I'll address specific issues in a couple of days.
So, back to my topics:
The most important thing for a vehicle owner to know is the proper maintenance of that vehicle. You should know how many Zerk fittings are on your suspension, steering, and drivetrain components. You should know the difference between 5W30 and 10W30 oil.
For Example: Did you know that in the Vortec Series engines, you should use ONLY 5W30 engine oil, preferrably of a better brand or quality. If you use a more viscous oil, such as 10W30, you can cause the remote oil lines, oil seals, and other components to fail prematurely. Some of the quick-lube places use 10W30 oil as their main supply, as they get larger discounts for ordering it in bulk. Don't let anyone tell you that you should use a heaver oil "because your engine has more miles on it". Any engine oil begins to break down at around 400 deg. F, whether it is synthetic or petroleum-based.
The key to making your engine last longer is to use good engine oil. Some oils have a higher paraffin (wax) base, used as a low-cost filler in most cases, and these oils cause sludge to build up in the engine block. Valvoline, Mobil, and Castrol have a lower paraffin count, and have a higher detergent value, which helps to keep sludge from building up inside an engine. If you have ever torn down an engine that has run oil from the "yellow bottles", you know what I am describing here.
The oil filter is also a key component in regular service, and should be changed with every oil change. You can tell the quality of an oil filter by it's weight when changing engine oil. A heavier filter has usually trapped more contaminants than a lighter filter. This is mostly due to the fact that a higher quality filter has more surface area and a more dense material that form the filter element.
Engine oil should be changed every three months or 3k miles, or even more frequently if you live in a metro area and are usually stuck in stop-and-go traffic. The "L A Traffic Jam" is hell on a vehicle's drivetrain, but most people don't realize how bad it really is.
Figure it this way: You can spend an average of $25.00 per oil change at your local dealer, with a high average of seven oil changes per year (every 3k miles). You can expect to pay, say, $175.00 per year for oil changes on an average vehicle. If you keep that vehicle for five years, you might spend an average total of $875.00 for oil changes (keep in mind that this is just a Lube/Oil/Filter Service; no air filter, wiper blades, etc.). Just to make some of you happy, let's round up the oil change cost to $1000.00 for five years.
Now, I remember a customer with a 99 Pathfinder who didn't change his oil, but six times in the span of 45k miles. With around 52k miles, his heap was hauled into the Service Drive on a flat-bed. Nissan had, on this particular vehicle, a 5yr/60k Powertrain Warranty that covers all seals, gaskets, and internal drivetrain components against normal part failure. Well, guess what... That customer was out about $8000.00 for repairs, including a factory new engine, and that was just above my warranty cost on the repairs (that job would normally cost around $10,00.00).
Look at the difference in cost... $1,000 over 5 years vs. $4,000- $8,000 in one haul.
I live in southern Arizona, and can go for a full day at a time in 4-Low, loaded to the hilt, when it's 115 outside, and my truck keeps rolling along.
My 4.3 has 198,000 miles, has NEVER had any engine work done to it, and doesn't consume or leak a drop of oil.
Sure, I've had to replace the water pump (130k miles), the CPI Unit (130k miles), ball joints (90k and 190k miles), fuel pump (90k and 190k miles), and EGR Valve (130k miles). With my experience in the automotive field, I can say that these numbers are not uncommon for any manufacturer.
With Nissan, Mits, Toyota, and some Ford and Dodge vehicles, as well as Chevy, you change out the timing belt every 60k miles, which can cost $200 - $800 or even more.
More to come.
How about something good about Chevy Blazer. My first Blazer, 1988 went 325K miles. My present Blazer has 211,950 miles. Hardly any problems. I replaced the alternator at 145K, I do a lot of driving and do my own brakes every 30K miles. Oh, I replaced the cooling fan clutch a few months ago. I ONLY use 30 or 40 weight oil year round, I don't care what anyone says. It's a 95 2 door and still get compliments on the style. If I could always find a truck that I could put so many miles on with so little trouble I'd buy it. Can't buy the Blazer anymore. Shame!
I recently bough a 2004 Blazer LS 4x4. I started having problems with the brakes at the beginning and also hot air blowing trough the lower vents. I took it four time to the dealer and can fixed it. I talk to the manufacture and say that the problem of the heater blowing hot air through the vents is normal. How can it be normal; after driving it for an 1 hour your feet get really hot.
Solution the the dealer gave me is to turn the air condicioning on. After the four time I took it to the dealer they gave a paper saying that all blazer from 96-2004 are normal, if blowing hot air trough lower vents. If they knew that they had that problem since 96 why keep manufacturing same defective blazers?
After I get out of this problem I will never BUY another GM car!
I own a 1996 Blazer LS, oil coolant lines are leaking and had to replace the fule module ($500). But this is after 180,000 miles. I also had to put new ball joints in recently. I have been putting off the oil leak, but after reading I could blow my engine I will take it in.
And these vehicles go through brakes fast, but I do a lot of city driving too.
Um, I have a comment for the "mechanic" in Arizona. Chevrolet does not utilize a timing belt! Very good point on the 5w30 oil requirment. Most places and people use whatever and mix viscosities as well. However I've only used oil in the "yellow bottles" and have never experienced any problems. I drive my Chevrolet vehicles over 200,000 before replacing them and have never had to crack them open to replace a timing chain or any internal items. No - it's not luck, just common sense.
My other comment is that I've only experienced great things with my 1995 Chevrolet Blazer LT. Now sporting 196,443 original, untouched miles. I take care of it myself, I don't allow grease monkeys at oil change places to perform any maintenance because they simply do not care. There are a lot fo dealer trained mechanics that do not care as well.
If you cannot perform your own maintenance, for God's sake shop for a dealer that cares. And if you cannot perform maintenance, then educate yourself on the maintenance schedule and pay attention to your vehicle. Things don't just happen, nor does GM build cars to fall apart or to thieve people out of their hard earned money.
I've noticed that many of the people making a comment have purchased their vehicle used. While generally there is nothing wrong with purchasing a used car, you have to keep in mind that the previous owner may have been as bad or worse than you are at completing maintenance items and paying attention to your vehicle.
1995 Chevy Blazer. I'm at 86,000 and am replacing the fuel pump for the 3rd time. EGR valve has happened several times. My mechanic usually just removes and cleans the carbon out of it. I also have had a new starter and alternator within the last 2 months. That's nothing unusual, starter was original, but alternator was replaced earlier. I must add that I also had the front end parts need replaced right around 50,000. After putting on new tires, I took it to a shop that I used to work at for a front end alignment, not wanting to ruin the new tires. Pitman arm, ball joints and a few hundred bucks it was back on the road. I had my friend who owns a transmission shop change that fluid at 30,000 and just had the rear pumpkin drained and changed last summer. I only drive it about 5 to 6000 a year nowadays. My wife wants to get rid of it. We'll have to see.
More of the same for me. I bought it used at around 80k miles. The A/C went out the day I drove it off the lot. The dealership repaired that for me free thankfully. Ran nicely for about 6 months until the brakes started acting up. Went in for a brake check, came out with new ball joints and wheel bearings on both sides in the front, along with the new brakes of course. Replaced a couple more brakes since then, then I had the infamous coolant problem that everyone is having with these. Everyplace I take it too says they've never seen anything like it. The coolant looks like red mud and clogs up and ruins just about everything in sight. The problem doesn't ever seem to go away so be prepared to get a radiator flush every couple months. When you're pricing the blazer against other vehicles, keep in mind that you're going to be spending $1000 a year on repairs. That might affect your decision.
Well guys I own a 96 blazer and all I have with this truck is the best of saying, this truck is good very good bought the truck used 83000 miles now it has 174523 original miles I beat the heck of this truck, the brakes are bad the designed is to old, I upgraded with calipers and rotors from an 98 doubled piston calipers brakes very good not problems with trans, replaced head gaskets at 120000.
In the other hand my wife and I bought a new 2001 pathfinder and this truck is garbage. I don't want to even talk about it, It may brake cause of it. So you make your own assumptions good luck.
I also own a 96 chevy blazer and all the above comments are true, I was a little lucky and had an extended warranty from chevy. I had replaced the lower oil line, fuel pump, A/C lines and compressor, wiper motor, belt tensoner, water pump, all ball joints, ilder arm, all seals on the transmission,4 wheel drive sensor, transmission lines that cracked, vacuum line for 4wheel drive, power steering pump, and all 3 vc joints for drive shafts... and now my airbag light comes on and goes off every couple of days... I paided 1200.00 for the extended warranty and I'm sure it cost more for chevy to fix my truck then it cost me to buy it... all the above was fixed by the extended warranty, only problem now is that airbag light coming on.
I bought a 96 Blazer in May of 2004, used with 100K miles on it. I had problems with the alternator and hood latch within the first 2 months of buying it. The dealer replaced them at no charge. The big problem came not quite a year after I bought the car. I had to replace my engine with a brand new one (just over $3000 from a family friend who owns a service center). Luckily it came with a 3 year warranty. I've had my brakes changed several times (once the brake line broke in half a day after I had my brakes fixed...) and I've replaced the gaskets once. Now my service engine soon light is on and I've been told that it's probably my O2 sensors, but they can't be sure until I get it in. It's going in tommorrow. To me, this hasn't been my worst car and I don't have a problem paying for repairs as long as I know that it will run afterward. It sucks, but we have to remember that these cars are old and are going to have problems. My car prior was a 97 Plymouth Breeze (bought in 97 with 4K miles) and I had 3 transmissions within 7 years, now that is a bad car...
I've had my 96 blazer LT 4wd for over 4 yrs., bought used, Here's my complaints:
Water pumps X 3
Fuel pump X 1
Thermostat X 2
Brake Pads X 4 ea.
Brake Liners (drums) 1 X (pretty sure they don't engage like most vehicle's, one has to adjust them perfectly or they never travel to the drum)
Air Cond. not working, compressor leaking, will not pay to fix.
Serp. Belt tensioner X 1
Only the driver can control the windows.
U - Joints X 2 (fairly typical)
Rear window wiper not working (least of my problems)
And now... A new rear diff... Two teeth broke off the ring gear, considerably loud grinding noise. Fixing this my self, then unloading it. I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER GM PRODUCT AS LONG AS I LIVE. I'm not shocked DELPHI is in financial trouble or G.M. for that matter. It's apples to oranges when comparing to foreign car reliability and longegevity.
I love my new honda, so much.