1995 Chevrolet S-10 LS Extended Cab review from North America

- While still under warranty, speedometer and tachometer would not operate smoothly after driving vehicle on extended trips. On second trip to dealer, I was informed that a build-up of heat under the dash was causing the speedometer and tachometer motor shafts to bind. Dash was removed and a cooling fan installed at no cost - problem fixed.

- Driveshaft factory U-joints replaced

at about 40,000 miles. The sealed-for-life units were totally dry when they were taken out. Replacement greasable joints were installed, and the rear joint required replacement at 70,000 miles. I bought a grease gun with a special tip just to keep after the U-joints, and grease them twice a year.

- Upper passenger and lower driver ball

joints replaced at 60,000 miles, cost $300. Constant greasing required to maintain these. I lowered the vehicle 2" front and rear at 110,000 miles, and installed new upper and lower ball joints all around.

- Clutch wore out at 80,000 miles. The transmisson is a New Venture 5-speed, used only in the 1994 & 1995 models.

Ball stud used for clutch pivot fork exhibited wear, and I was informed at the dealership that a service bulletin had been issued. A greasable replacement stud would be required, and I brought the transmission in to have a grease fitting and stud installed at a cost of $200. Master and slave clutch

cylinders also replaced at this time.

Total cost around $500 do-it-yourself.

- EGR valve went out at 90,000 miles; there was a recall out to replace these units if they failed under 75,000 miles. Mine failed beyond the recall limit and cost $300 at dealership. TOMCO makes a screened gasket which keeps the carbon buildup down in the manifold and not in the valve. I have just purchased this gasket for $12.00 and intend to install and maintain it myself.

- Oil cooling hoses to radiator broke at 100,000 miles in January 2001, which were replaced at dealership for $350.

- Gas tank and sending unit replaced at

110,000 miles. A plastic shield at the

front of the tank caused moisture and road salt to collect, rusting out the front of the tank. I painted the replacement tank before installation, and drilled weep holes in the plastic shield to allow moisture to escape. Cost $400 do-it-yourself.

- This vehicle is my first pickup, and has required much more maintenance and repair than I ever would have reasonably anticipated. I have done much of the work myself, and the vehicle has never been used for heavy towing.

- The vehicle still looks good, and I would like to drive it another five years. I think that most of the driveline, suspension, and underhood problems have already been taken care of, so just maybe it will last that long. When I replace the vehicle, I will be looking at a full-size model from Ford or possibly Chevy, and not another small pickup.