Tie rod bushings replaced three times (everyone who own one of these MUST check these at least once a year, it's a SAFETY ISSUE as well as a design flaw).
Transmission catastrophic failure at 51,000 miles -- completely replaced.
Steering gear mounting bushings failed, causing steering gear damage -- replaced steering gear.
Won't hold alignments due to above problems.
Water pump replaced three times.
Radiator replaced.
Power steering pressure hose replaced.
Battery failed prematurely (original OEM part).
Power door lock servos (motors?) malfunctioned within 1 month of purchase. Replaced under warranty and subsequently failed again within a year -- never replaced again.
Visor clips only last one year (become brittle after a few exposures to heat during summer). Replaced multiple times until Chrysler discontinued the part (gee, wonder why!)
Replaced O2 sensor.
Replaced front struts.
Parking brake cable snapped three years ago when engaging it.
Turn signal silk-screening comes off with exposure to ammonia based window cleaner... ooops.
Steering wheel coating wore off years ago, it's just a sticky rubbery material now.
Passenger air bag cover shrunk and curled around the edges.
Etc... etc... I could go on for a while...
I am the original owner of 1997 Concorde and have had too many problems over the years to list here. I've put at least 6-7 thousand dollars into it in repairs over the years. I've replaced the tie rod bushings twice myself and had a shop do it once, all 97 Concords suffer from this design flaw and it is a serious safety concern. There were something like 4 service bulletins on it (I got access to them, the general public usually doesn't). Chrysler quietly upped the torque specifications and recommends a higher grade bolt when replacing them. It should have been recalled for a new steering gear design, if you ask me. Anyway, I had the transmission go out at 51,000 miles, just out of warranty. Chrysler did offer to pay for a "rebuilt" one if I'd pay for the labor ($700), I did. I've replaced the steering gear, the radiator, I'm on my fourth water pump. I've replaced the timing belt (although, that's not unusual after a certain mileage and should be considered routine maintenance). I had the power door lock motors replaced in the first year (under warranty) and within a year or so they were slipping (and making a really loud whine) again, I've just dealt with that for the last few years. The clear coat is almost completely gone on all of the horizontal surfaces and the paint is so dull that if you drag a paper towel across it, you'll get fuzzy lint on the car. Don't even consider waxing it! It turned parts of it white and I couldn't buff it off! Basically, the paint is self-destructing, much like my last car (also a Chrysler). I don't know what it is about Chrysler's clear coats, but they don't last for me. The engine has held up pretty well. I think I'm on my second O2 sensor though. Oh, and due to the steering gear problem and the tie rod bushings constantly needing to be replaced, it doesn't hold an alignment and subsequently "eats" tires. Oh, and the steering (from day one) is very stiff. This goes back to that "design flaw" in the steering gear. There are whole websites on that steering gear and Chrysler's lack of experience designing single take-off steering gears (a copy of another luxury brand's design) at that time. Anyway, I'm getting ready to sell it now, after 10 years and get a Prius. I don't expect to get more than $1500 for it, if I'm lucky.
Did you steal my car when I wasn't looking? If so, thank you! :o) This sounds almost identical to the problems we've had with our 1996 LHS. Tranny went out around 80K miles, visor clips broken several times, passenger side window button doesn't work right, radio buttons stick, drivers side window sticks when rolling down during the cold, TOO MANY front end problems to mention, etc. etc...
Although we have almost 140K miles on it now, thinking of selling seems like we would almost be better giving it away!
On the 1997 Concorde -- steering gear -- it gets loose because the factory bolt spec is wrong! It should be 3/8 inch, but the part list has it as metric! I had to make my own. Also the steering gear started leaking, but I fixed it with power steering gear stop-leak. All this happened after 200,000 miles on. Overall it has been satisfactory.
CG.
Rack and pinion bushings worn out and no longer holds alignment. Finding the bushings has been the most difficult to locate.
I had an experience of deja vu while reading your post. I've had almost all of the same problems with my '96 Concorde LX, except the paint is fine.
At 125K miles I'm looking at putting a THIRD transmission in, which I am loathe to do since I planned on giving it to my 17 yo. Not that that I don't want to give him a well operating car, but our family has a long history of wrecking our first cars until we figure out how to drive right.
I have a 1996 Chrysler Concorde LX I bought used. It's always had problems with the ignition. When I put the key in, it rarely turns on right away. Sometimes I have to keep turning the key 10 or 15 minutes if it will even turn on. Had a new battery put in, replaced the alternator, the starter, the starter relay switch, fuel pump relay switch and it still does the same thing. Took it to a reputable shop, they ran a full diagnostic and can't find out what the problem is. Also when the car does turn on the door locks keep going up and down. Very annoying, and all the interior lights stay on. Fuses for the door locks have been replaced, and fuses for the interior lights and it still does the same thing.
Anyone out there have any answers for me? I could use the help.
"Anyone out there have any answers for me? I could use the help."
You may have a short somewhere in the system. It's also possible that the ECU (Electrical Control Unit) is beginning to die. The car's main computer may be on the way out as well, considering it hasn't detected any problems, which it should have done if there was a starting problem, however, if there is an electrical problem, it may be messing with the computer systems voltage. These may be the problems, however, having never seen your car, I can't be 100% positive. If it turns out there's a short, it could potentially be anywhere in the vehicle. You may find it right away and fix it, or you may not. If the ECU is going wacko, then simply replace the ECU. If the cars main computer is going, then replace that. The main computer is crucial to engines these days. It provides ignition timing and fuel to the engine. If your planning on doing this work yourself, than the car may still be worth fixing. However, having these problems fixed by a mechanic may become quite expensive. It may so expensive, that it might just be better to get a new car. Just some advice. I hope this helps. I'm a mechanic myself by the way.
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