1972 Dodge Dart Custom from North America - Comments

I just bought a 74 Dodge Dart SE. I'm wondering what you had to do to drop the LeBaron motor in it. everybody here tells me that you have to change out the cross-member to get something like that to mount. Did you have to do that?

You're asking advice from someone who uses a wooden stick for a gas gauge? lol!

Hey,

My dad and I are fixing a car just like this we still have to work on the the body. What you should do with your exhaust is weld were the hole is and grind it smooth. our vinyl was riptied to we replaced it with home cloth.

-Daniel l.

It sounds as though you got this car near the end of its life cycle, from previous owners who didn't do much in the way of maintenance. As one of the other respondents stated, it's a testimonial that the car continued to run at all. However, even this poor little Dart could be salvaged with some fairly simple maintenance/repair. It can be assumed that any +10-year old car will need an alternator, starter, starter relay, and voltage regulator within a couple years of acquiring it. Also, within a week of acquiring a car of such an age, it's prudent to change the transmission fluid and filter, change the oil and filter, give it a complete tune-up (spark plugs, air filter, plug wires distributor cap), replace the fuel filter, and check the fluids. That would have addressed most of the annoyance factors, especially the slipping transmission and possibly the smoking and sludge-like performance. The pulling upon braking and swaying upon acceleration is probably due to torsion bars that need adjustment (incidentally, this is probably the only thing you could not have addressed on your own). Over time, the torque can bleed off as the suspension sags, and they need to be re-torqued to provide the stiffer resistance to the weight of the body. For instance, when you hit the brakes, momentum allows the car to veer toward the sagging torsion bar. A set of new shocks would have addressed much of your other body sway, keeping in mind that a '72 Dart was never meant to handle like a Porsche. That era carburetor is easy to rebuild, if you have a little patience. It probably had a Holley or Carter 1-barrel that has about two gaskets, an accelerator pump diaphragm, a rubber tipped check valve, and a couple of check balls to replace. Probably a sticking float allowed the reservoir to overflow, resulting in the fire, which is just a maintenance cause-and-effect. The solution to the worn cam lobe on the distributor shaft is simply to install a new distributor unit, preferably with a magnetic pickup while converting to electronic ignition. It sounds like a lot, but it's really only a weekend's worth of work, and you would be amazed at the difference it would make.

The only thing I cannot figure out is why you paid money for this car and actually drive it. I wouldn't trade a pack of gum for your car because I value my life. I can't believe your parents let you buy and drive this car too, mine throw a fit when a tire is going bald. But hey your young like me (I'm 20) and mistakes can happen when buying a used car.

Just to let you know in 2005 you can buy a nice "used" car for dirt cheap. Leave the 30 year old cars for the gear heads and people that have the money to take care and restore them. Be smart and buy the newer "used" safer car, you will be happier and live to grow old. I've owned a lot of great older cars that were trouble - free, safe, and didn't hurt my pocket. For example, I scored a rust free, garage kept 2 door 87 Mercury Grand Marquis with 120k for $800 from the original owner (polished it every day & maintained to the max). I've been driving it for a year and a half and the only thing I've done is put gas in it and get it inspected. I have a 93 Eagle Talon TSI AWD too, but that's my summer toy/project car since its not as reliable as the Merc. Just look harder next time and use common sense, there are gems out there for cheap that won't hurt your pocket.

No offense guys, but some of the dodge darts were not great cars from the factory. Yes the slant six was a great engine, but the rest of the car was poor in design and cheap in my opinion. I liked the older Dodge Aspens(mom had a 78 that was great), but some of the older unibody Chyrsler cars don't handle well or seem to be built as well as their competition. My dad had a 76 duster back in 1982 with 340 from a 71 Cuda that never drove straight no matter what he did. He replaced most of the front end and suspension not to mention the ball joints constantly went out. His dad had a 72 dart with the slant six just like this kid and it was troublesome eventhough he bought it new in 72. My grandpa was VERY disappointed with that dodge dart since he owned a 65 Dodge Monaco that handled much better, drove smoother, was much faster, and was more reliable and better built. Suspension and handling were problems with the dart, not to mention the "Chrysler electronics" were not wonderful to him either.

So in my opinion you should just take your 72 dart to the junkyard because its no longer safe, reliable, or even a good car. Then go buy something at least 14 years newer, because fuel injection, shoulder belts, maybe airbags, powersteering, ac, a cd stereo system and overdrive transmissions will be a big step up for you. If you like classic cars buy one that's been well taken care of and will be valuable, reliable, and fun to drive. Otherwise join the rest of the population and drive something newer, safer, and more reliable.

I have a 1972 Plymouth Valiant, the Plymouth version of the Dart, and this car has taken me across the country and back again. It is currently sitting in my garage. I was driving it, but it desperately needs to be restored. It still fires up for me every time I try. I have a 318 though so that can explain a lot. I love my "Scamp".

Dart dood!

Still driving da Dart, I daresay?

The dude that drives the Dart has apparently gone on to better (newer) things...

Newer isn't necessarily better. I still see a few Dodge Darts on the road around here as daily drivers.