1991 Dodge Dynasty LS review from North America

I bought this "off lease" vehicle because the price was right- $6,000 for a 3 yr. old model, albeit with 150,000 km.

Suspension:

Not pleased with the "feel" of the car from the outset, I invested $200 in new front McPherson struts. I have had only one wheel alignment, ($35), and the tires, that came with the car, have better than 25% tread wear remaining; this is indicative of the car as being able to retain its alignment and "being good" on tires.

Brakes:

It was necessary to clean and lubricate the emergency/rear brakes, within the first year, in order to remedy a tendency for the emergency brakes not to release from the "applied" condition. Although there was more than 25% of lining remaining, I replaced the rear shoes, ($30), simply because I was in the process of disassembling them for cleaning and lubrication.

In 2002, I purchased and installed new front pads, ($35).

To date, there has not been any need to machine or replace any rotor or drum.

Engine:

At 199,000 km, the water pump seized and resulted in loss of engine coolant, and, therefore, engine function. The vehicle was towed (using friend's truck and $15 tow rope package) to my residence for what I thought would be a fairly simple job of replacement of the water pump. However, when I saw that the cap screws securing the pump were only 6mm, I knew that trouble lay ahead; exposed to corrosion in situ, these screws would be highly prone to breakage. I broke 2 screws, of some six, which thus required removal of the timing chain cover, (and removal of the oil pan to enable the removal of the former). I salvaged the aluminum timing chain cover by center drilling the embedded remnants of the sheared screws, (but at the dealership, it is not unusual for a technician to choose replacement of this component at an additional cost of some $400). As the oil pan was already removed, I chose to replace the inserts of all main and crankshaft bearings. This measure has proven most worthwhile as it resulted in a 25% increase in oil pressure, which continues to date. Upon engine restart, I was confronted with a (new) loud engine knock; this noise emanated from the top-end of the engine, but its location became apparent only after dismantling, gauging, and reassembling all bottom-end work just completed. After extensive exploration and collaboration with auto parts manufacturers, I obtained an industry bulletin that related to an oiling deficiency with the 3.3 engine; this problem was just being put forward for consideration, and recommendation for its remedy was a future matter. In my case, I removed the cylinder heads and intake manifold to get access to the hydraulic valve lifters and top end oiling system. The oil gallery was repeatedly pressurized and flushed to prove the availability of oil to the lifters and rocker arms; my observation was that the oil flow to the rocker arm shafts is less than generous, (i.e. marginal, only), resulting in, and otherwise readily preventable, valve train noise and wear. The heads were redone (valves ground), the lifters disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled, and various new ancillary parts were installed "while I was at it". My cost for all of this engine work was some $1,000 for parts and machining service, and much personal time in analyzing, testing, and doing the work.

The replacement of a worn water pump is in many cases a straightforward and uncomplicated task. It has, in this case, been made unnecessarily arduous and expensive because some inexperienced and grossly incompetent designer chose to use 6mm cap screws (i.e., 1/4" major diameter) in a service condition of exposure to corrosion! Wow, even bicycles made in China are provided with more robust fasteners for connecting of their less stressed components! In the same vein, this designer's equally inept classmate apparently found employment in Chrysler's engine oiling section. This is not the first reciprocating internal combustion engine to come off the drawing board, and you'd think that the newbies at Chrysler would have drawn on the experience of their predecessors whose notes, on what worked and what didn't, they were likely too self centered to take advantage of.

Outcome of the above engine work:

I have a vehicle that is ever dependable and willing to take me anywhere, anytime, and under the most adverse weather conditions. Before this work was carried out, I rated the engine's performance as particularly good; now, with the completed work, its performance is outstanding.

Economy:

6.5 L/100 km on last tank-full, 75/25% highway/city driving, recorded within past two weeks.

Although I know this vehicle to be "good on gas", this sounds too good to be true.

I record the odometer on each gas purchase, but seldom fill to tank top. I'll have to do a repeat fill-up just to check this performance.

Miscellaneous:

Engine accessory belt, as a preventative maintenance measure - $25

Transmission filter and fluid, 1 change -$50

Replace battery - $90

Balance tires, twice - $45, total

Heater fan resistor block - $20

Engine electric fan, one of two - $60 (used)

Tire repair/replacement under seller's warranty, 3 instances - $65, total

Washer fluid level sensor (electrical) - $5 (used)

Tune-ups - $22 for platinum tipped spark plugs

Ignition wiring - $0. Replaced defective spark plug wire with one saved from a former vehicle

Air conditioning system has a leak and won't hold charge - requires repair, but I haven't had it assessed.

Most liked feature:

Distributor-less ignition - this effectively eliminates problems and costs associated with distributor caps and rotors, and the requirement for conventional tune-ups.

Cabin has ample passenger room, and trunk is particularly large. Space is an important factor in my choice of vehicle and short of exchange for a minivan, this car has it. But even a Dodge Caravan, (e.g., new model rentals), equipped with the same 3.3 L engine can't hold a candle to the fuel economy of my Dynasty.