1998 Ford Escort GTi from UK and Ireland - Comments

You wouldn't have the power to get the rev's up that high. It may be geared to do that speed, but 115bhp just ain't gonna get you there in reality. Dyno's have no resistance so you can on a dyno, but not on the road.

I don't think people realise just how fast 135 mph is, I mean, the top official speed for the Escort Cosworth is 139 mph and that has double the power of the GTI, UK Impreza WRX, 143 MPH. Why would a 115 bhp car be able to do 135?

Can someone help me please. My car judders a lot when it heats up. It's fine in high gears, but when I put my foot down it starts to judder and the exhaust pops. It's been in the shop and had a new air idle valve, but still has the same problem. HELP HELP HELP.

To the guy with the judder, there are things you can check. I had issues with my lower arms which gave a juddery feeling to acceleration. Also how does your clutch feel? Could it be slipping or not engaging fully?

Alternatively, have you checked your throttle body isn't sticking and is operating smoothly? Other than that, without driving the car there are few things I can suggest checking. Perhaps a small misfire at low revs? A loose or dirty earth connection? Have you had a engine diagnostic check run?

Hope this helps?

Yes, I've had a diagnostic, and he said get a new air idle valve, which I did. I've had new bottom arms put on both sides, a new CV boot and tracking done. But don't think these things have anything to do with the car juddering. The clutch feels fine. It's OK at 1st, but when the car heats up it judders a lot in low gears, and when I put my foot down.

It's all sorted now. Turned out I just needed new HT leads. All that bother and it turned out to be something stupid. Runs perfect now, cheers for the help.

My rear near side drum has started to leak now. LOL. Anyone know how to fix it?

Yep you need a new hydraulic wheel cylinder.

It's like a little piston that pushes the rear brake pads in to the drums.

1. Jack up car.

2. Axle stands in jack up places.

3. Take off wheel.

4. Take off drum.

Look after bearing.

5. Undo 8mm nut on brake pipe. Make sure you have a bucket or something to catch the brake fluid in.

6. Undo wheel cylinder.

7. Put new one on.

8. Put back on brake pipe and then put back on brake drum, and don't forget to put back the bearing.

9. Put new brake fluid into the master cylinder.

10. Bleed the brakes.

This is how to bleed brakes.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/how_to/4213448.html

Then put the wheels back on and drop the car on floor, and start the engine and pump the brakes; job done.

Leaking drum generally means you need new wheel cylinder (part of the brake inside the drum, mines doing the same). They ain't expensive, but you're gonna need a big socket to get the drum off. If it ain't that, then it's the hose/bleed nipple connecting to the back. Easy enough job. Make sure you get the right ones though! Remember Gti's have bigger rear drums than the Si's. (I think the gti's are 180mm, not sure though)

Question, how hard is it to change a windscreen on these Escorts? Am I gonna need specialist equipment? Or is it just a case of pull the old one out and drop the new one in? Any help ASAP would be good.

For the whole period I've had my GTi I've been indecisive about getting a turbo conversion, do I, don't I? Do I just buy a new car or get a new engine?... now I've decided I do want one on this car as I'm refurbing it, was thinking of some cams too, I could do with some professional opinions on this, I can by a T4 turbo kit with intercooler and everything to fit it apart from manifold and the cam kit is complete, anyone have any ideas on cost wise? And possible problems?

Yes, lots of problems! Having turbo'd a Honda in the past, I know what to expect, and one thing you haven't mentioned is fueling. You can't just bolt on a turbo and expect it to work, compared to what you're running now, you would need bigger injectors, and a fuel computer or complete ECU to control the fuel flow, an uprated fuel pump, oil lines to supply the turbo, uprated forged pistons, a cometic multi layered head gasket and a compentant mechanic to fit it, all followed by a very good tune.

If you want turbo power, your best bet is to get an Escort turbo engine and ECU, and fit that straight in. Once you have that in, you can tune as you see fit from there.

If you however want a more modern reliable engine, it would be better getting the extra power from a tuned 2 litre Ford lump. Start with the 130bhp 2 litre from the Mondeo, which can be had for couple hundred quid, then add cams and headers and exhaust, and you have a very reliable 150/160 bhp. A lot cheaper and less complicated than turbo.

My turbo on the Integra ended up costing me in the region of £3000 with mechanics bills as well as all the parts. Just depends how much you wanna spend on your GTi. Might be cheaper to just buy a faster car to start with mate.

I agree with the 2 litre conversion. However if you use some of the original 1.8 parts you can improve on the 2L standard 130bhp without the need for cams. Using the 1.8 head with the 2L bottom end will up your compression so when you add cams, injectors/throttle bodies you can create more power.

No-one got any ideas about the windscreens then? Really need some help guys!

12th May 2009, 07:02

Question, how hard is it to change a windscreen on these Escorts? Am I gonna need specialist equipment?

Yes they're not like the old Escorts, they're glued in so if you try and take them out they smash,.

Go to auto glass or some one like that. At the most it will be £150 for a new windscreen and fitting,.

£150? sounds reasonable. Thanks for your help. Thought they might be bonded in, but wasn't sure. Thanks for the confirmation.