1997 Geo Metro Base from North America - Comments

Brake booster has failed twice due to an internal vacuum leak.

Heater control fan switch worked only on high speed, I was able to disassemble it and clean the contacts so it works fine now.

Clutch went out (to be expected with high mileage)

Normal maintenance (oil changes, tune ups, timing belt, etc.)

Service engine soon light has come on many times with code P0420 Catalyst System Low Efficiency. I have replaced both oxygen sensors and the catalytic converter ($200 for each sensor... same price whether OEM or aftermarket, another $200 for the aftermarket catalytic converter) and despite the fact the car has received regular maintenance and does not use oil the light continues to come on. This is a problem in my area where emission tests are required and they do check for trouble codes, if you have any codes you fail the test. A technician who said that computer failures are extremely rare in these vehicles quoted about $800 for a computer replacement... apparently it has to be programmed by the dealership when installing since they have the only tools capable of doing that. That appears to be the only thing left that could cause the code to keep returning.

The car is economical and for the most part durable. With 247,000 miles it does not use oil and still runs great, but the cost of some replacement parts can quickly add up to the value of the car. It is one of the easiest newer vehicles to work on yourself. However, I wish I had one built before a scan tool was required for obtaining trouble codes as repair shops will not even look at a service engine soon light for less than $80.00 each time. Not to mention O2 sensors are also cheaper and only one is used.

You can take your car to AutoZone and they will scan it for free.

$80 to scan a service engine soon light is a ripoff!!

He or she is absolutely correct in telling you about Auto-zone doing a free scan or check engine light diagnostic for free. I have been there on two ocasions and both times no charge was asked.

If you live in a part of the country that does not have any Auto Zone stores, then unfortunately you do not have that option. The cheapest in my area is about 40 bucks, but not at a dealer.

I had the same problem with the heater/air conditioning switch only working on the higher setting.

I've also had the same problems with the Service Engine Soon light. They blamed it on my low mileage, cleaned out the gas tank, and told me to only buy a couple of gallons of gas at a time rather than keep filling up the tank, but after a couple of weeks the Service Engine Soon light reappeared again, and it remains on each time I drive the car.

Twice they also replaced the freon while the car was still under a 3 year warranty.

After the warranty ran out I then had to pay $500 for a new compressor (which should have been replaced for free while still under warranty since I now know the defective A/C compressor was the cause of the freon leaking). Normally a new compressor cost over $1,000, but the dealership offered me a 50/50 deal.

Less than a year later that compressor also had to be replaced.

I'm now on my third A/C compressor since owning the car.

Since I've owned it, I've also had two passenger side mirrors fall apart, which are also very expensive to replace.

Thanks for the tip about how Auto Zone will scan the Service light free of charge.

Since I've already been taken advantage of (as were others here who've also been through the same situation with the dealership replacing freon as a way to stall for time until the warranty expired) it's nice to know I have the option of getting a second opinion from Auto Zone regarding this Service Light matter.

Where was the internal vacuum leak? I have the same problem with my metro. I changed the booster and still have to press hard to stop car. Any suggestions where to look for vacuum leak?

"Appropriated" from www.actron.com :

P0420, P0430 Catalyst Efficiency

Code P0420 indicates that the exhaust gas exiting the catalytic converter is too similar to the exhaust gas entering the converter. A faulty or overloaded converter due to an unbalanced air/fuel mixture can cause this condition.

Check the exhaust system for air leaks or holes rusted through. Any outside air that leaks into the exhaust can go through the cat as lean exhaust and hurt its efficiency.

Rap on the converter with a fist or a soft mallet and listen for anything loose or rattling inside. If the catalyst element is cracked or broken apart then the cat will need replaced.

You may want to test the O2 sensors for proper operation. Because these sensors tell the computer about the performance of the converter, malfunctioning O2 sensors can set this code. Verify that the sensors are faulty before replacing.

There may be another problem causing the engine to burn an excessively rich or lean air/fuel mixture. This could overload the cat and ruin its efficiency as well.

Common causes include incorrect fuel pressure, an EGR system malfunction, an MAF sensor malfunction, intake or vacuum leaks, incorrect cam timing, a bad PCV system, misfires, injector problems, cooling system problems, a restricted air filter, a head gasket leak, or a high oil level.

Since you've replaced the cat already, your brake booster vacuum leak could be the culprit. Hope this helps.

There is a big difference between reading codes and diagnosing the problems that cause those codes. Eighty dollar is quite reasonable when you spend 2-3 hours testing components on a diagnostic flow chart to determine the root of a problem. Autozone is not going to do that for you for free.