1995 Geo Metro LSi from North America - Comments

The problem with Geo 1.0L is the EGR valve gets plugged with carbon. This will do a lot of things to the engine. The gas mileage goes down first then the check engine light will come on and when you check the diagnostic codes it's the EGR valve. If you continue to drive it it will burn the exhaust valves, if you replace or clean it (soak in gunk) and power wash it it won't cost a dime. The EGR is the only real fault with the 3cyl 1.0 eng. The problem or first clue is the mileage drop that means the EGR is plugging up, but, not completely clogged yet THAT'S when you make the repair don't burn up the exhaust valves waiting for the "check engine" light to come on. Stay ahead of it and it will last and last...

1.0 L EGR Valve System?

Why does the 1.0 Liter, 3 cylinder Geo Metro engine have an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system, when there does not appear to be any tube, pipe or hose, from the exhaust system connected to the EGR valve or intake manifold.

I have looked under the hood and in the official Geo Shop manual, which I ordered, on Ebay.

From all of these posts, it does appear that the EGR valve system is crucial to avoiding burnt exhaust valves.

For owners suffering excessive engine oil leakage:

I used Restore engine treatment, which seemed to increase engine power and reduce oil leakage, from rear main seal. Oil leakage is probably less than a third, after Restore engine treatment. Also I cut a rubber gasket, for engine oil fill cap, which has stopped oil vapor from leaking past oil filler plug.

My 5 door Metro gets about 41 mpg and can do 75 mph, on relatively flat highways.

Western80401@yahoo.com.

EGR valve was mostly clogged, with powdery carbon. Scraped and washed most of it out of valve, with penetrating oil. EGR modulator valve appears to be clogged.

Still do not understand how intake manifold can circulate sooty exhaust gas, but it obviously does.

Will probably replace EGR modulator valve.

western80401@yahoo.com

I have a 93 Geo Metro Hatchback, and it seems to be using more oil. It has 174,000 on it. I figured if it lasted 6 months at the price of $550, with 38+ mpg (automatic) it would pay for itself in gas not purchased. What type of oil works best in this engine? I'm thinking at oil change time I put in the wrong viscosity or something. I put in 5/30. What else do I need to know? Thanks.

Also, I replaced the driver's side front wheel bearing. Should I get it aligned? My mechanic said if it were his, he wouldn't.???

1 more thing: It's leaking oil by the timing belt seal. Is it a nasty job to fix that?

Leangreencafe@yahoo.com.

Owner of a 96 base metro 2dr HB 1.0L:

Noticed the fan speed control switch in these cars gets dodgy over time. The switch body tends to separate and leave you with HI fan only. I found that a plastic wire tie (zip tie) wrapped around the switch body usually fixes the problem. You can access the area behind the panel by removing the glove-box. You have to play around to find the right spot for it to work successfully.

Also if you notice the upper and lower radiator mount bars are rusting out badly, make sure you check the rest of the body as the sub-frame could fail (as it did for me, thankfully at a stop sign and not on the highway). Any reinforcement you can add to the body is probably a good thing. It's a cheap fairly durable car if taken care of.

I just bought a 95 Geo Metro LsI 3 cyl.

It starts up and runs nice for about 4 seconds, then you have to feather the gas pedal just to keep it running, and it eventually putters out. I've replaced the fuel filter, it seems to be getting gas, good compression in all 3 cylinders. The guy I bought it from said it was sitting for awhile, then he drove it for about 10 miles, then it died.

Any help, Please?? studlt@spu.edu