1998 Lincoln Continental sedan from North America - Comments

I own a 98 Connie @100k miles. New tires helped the handling issues I had but the rusted tie rods replacements and an four wheel alignment helped a lot more. Reset the rear end height sensor for an even ride while unloaded.

Engine management system said the camshaft position sensor was trashed so I replaced that. It was inexpensive and quite easy to change out. I used my code reader to reset the PCM's codes. I have never seen an hall effect sensor magnetized before in my life.

No.3&4 cylinders died one day and led to an episode of rough idle and check engine light being illuminated. found the seals on the spark plug and coil cover on top of the rear cylinder bank valve cover was a bit flaky. This allowed water to accumulate in the spark plug bore and short out the high voltage from the top of plug coil to ground, bypassing the spark plug. I also resealed the gasket foam that seals the cabin air plenum in front of the windscreen to prevent water (probably from a high pressure car wash) from running down on top of the rear cylinder bank valve cover. I blew the water out of the plug well in the cylinder head and thoroughly cleaned and sealed everything. then I reset the PCM's codes and it's worked out like the champ it is.

A code reader that will also reset the pcm's memory will save you a lot of time and money in the long run. It also makes troubleshooting such complex engine systems that much easier-and allows you to double check any work being done on your vehicle.

My newest vehicular folly involves the HVAC system always blowing hot air, no mater what the temp is set to. And yes the AC compressor turns on as it's supposed to and chills the lines etc. I hadn't found a heat valve and suspect there isn't one. It may be a blend door not moving as commanded by the electronic controller. Does anyone know what color hose from the back of the controller goes to the heat blend circuit?? the manifold is accessable from under the glove box where a six port connector is located. Probably just drop the passenger side hush panel. I can hear valve and actuators moving with a vaccuum tester, but I really don't want to tear into the plastic HVAC housing with out knowing what I'm getting into.

18city to 26 highway is about what I get for economy. Altitude plays a part in the mileage figure here in Denver. On hot and high days, the density altitude can hit well over 9k ft. I get better economy here than at sea level. EEC-V does that. I use regular octane fuel a lot because the altitude limits peak cylinder pressure but at low altitude I run premium. Runs great. I usually get 25 mpg while cruising at 80 mph. nothing to complain about there!

A comfortable, quiet, and roomy car with a huge trunk and automatic leveling. Great highway cruiser. Outstanding audio system. I really like the way the transmission up shifts thru the gears. Too be any smoother, it would have to be powered by an electric motor. Great paint. Good looks.

The '98 Continental is a nightmare for any mechanic, dealer shop or private. These cars are known for transmission problems, air ride problems, and anything that would be a minor repair on any other brand becomes a major dis-assembly issue costing the owner tons.

I will never own another over rated Lincoln Mercury product again.

I changed a transmission in a 98 Continental AX4N. On the ground, dropped the sub frame on the drivers side, loosened the sub frame bolts on the passenger side, and opened it like a clam shell. I work in the industry and looked up book time out of our labor time guide, and its 9.6 hours or more with a hoist.

This car sat for 2 years, found coil spring broken on drivers front strut, (new spring by itself from Ford is $484.00, ouch, not available in aftermarket). Bought a whole use strut assembly from a bone yard for $150.00) amazingly air hide, height sensors work fine. But it over heats. No hot air coming from heater either, I suspect stuck t-stat heater hoses not getting hot, or huge air pocket. I did not have to break open any coolant lines so I suspect t-stat. Where the heck is the t-stat??? I'm a GM guy don't normally work on the "F" words.

My 97 Lincoln Continental is over heating, and I have fixed everything I can think of; fans, radiator cap, water pump, thermostat. When it overheats, I turn the heater on and then it cools off. It was doing that before I fixed the fans. It's been a week and now it's back to the same thing.

This is for (18th of February 2009). You cannot replace your radiator cap. You don't have one which leads to my next point.

There is possibly air in the system, something that is more common without radiator cap. I actually found a small crack in my radiator where the hose connects. It was not holding pressure! If you don't have any leaks. There is a cap with a star indentation on the crossover pipe. It crosses over the top of your alternator. Loosening that cap helps to expel air will filling the overflow container. You can have the car running for a bit to help circulate the coolant, but when it starts getting warm, the coolant will flow out of the hole. If that happens, tighten the cap, replace the overflow cap and run the car to see what happens.

For rough idle I have done two different things at different times.

1. Replaced the idle control valve

2. replaced a cylinder coil.

At the time each replacement worked it was not a combination of the two.

I own a 1998 Lincoln Continental. I have had it for 7 years. It has been a great car until recent overheat problem.

The right cooling fan seized up and I had to disconnect it. Now the car overheats and AC blows cold, but causes immediate overheat.

I am not sure if the left fan is now working. Can anyone tell me if fans can be replaced independently of each other, or do I need to replace both fans at one time?

I appreciate any thoughts anyone might share.

Thanks.

If you do have a fan problem, you can get the appropriate part from the bone yard. I replaced the left drivers side fan without removing the whole harness. You can sneak it by with patience. There is a clip on the front of the plastic fan that must come off and that needs some attention. Keep at it and you can get the old fan out and the new fan in with just loosening the radiator and such. You might have to pull the air filter assembly to give yourself room, but you don't have to take out the fan harness and install the fan and reinstall it. I got a spare fan at the junkyard for $15; the harness assembly complete costs $600 minimum.