2000 Lincoln LS from North America - All Comments

2003 Lincoln LS V8. This was my 2nd LS. What was I thinking. I purchased a 2001 LS V8 new and as many of us had the ball joint problem. Most annoying was the shaking in the steering wheel & the seat. Yes, I tried the wheel balance. It persisted. I replaced the tires, then the rims, then balanced the drive shaft. It still vibrated. I got upset with it and traded it.

I traded it for a 2003 LS V8 Sport. I liked the style and handling. Guess what, it developed a shake. This time I got smart and replaced the front brake rotors with heavy duty rotors and ceramic pads. Problem solved. Seems that the cheap thin rotors warp and cause a vibration. The new pads got rid of that squeak. That was the first problem. Here is what followed;

Right rear brake caliper came apart. The dealer said brakes are not a warrant-able item. It's not like they wore out.

Left rear bearing spun and had to be replaced.

The CD player works when it feels like working. I have not yet recovered my CD's.

Foggy headlights.

Transmission sensor went out causing a hard shift or a delayed shift.

Replaced a window motor.

Fixed the drivers door handle.

Now the kicker. I have had 3 sets of coils put in. First at 51,000 miles, then at 84,000 miles, again at 104,000, now at 116,000 miles I am having that issue again. Seems they last less each time. See the pattern. Is it the boots or the coil position?

I haven't decided what to do with the car. It looks almost new. I liked what it was supposed to be, a luxury sport sedan. Maybe I should drop in a 427ci and a 9 bolt rear end. In the mean time I parked it in the garage next to my Vette and bought a BMW.

They no longer produce this model and Ford is not in 2nd place. Go figure...

I owned a 2000 STINKEN LS for 2 years and they suck!!! Everything about the car sucks.

Don't buy American cars, they suck and are so costly to repair. I'm going back to import cars because they are more reliable.

Ford is a bad car company, no wonder why so many plants are being closed down!!!

I hate my Lincoln LS and will never buy one again!!!

I have a piece of crap 2000 Lincoln LS. I have spent over $2000 in the last year fixing it and am getting ready to get some more work done on it.

The ball joint snapped on me last October, luckily, I wasn't on the freeway as I has planned to be. Ford said they aren't liable because the recall replaced the nuts/bolts. I say the owe me a new car at least! This is complete crap.

Is anyone filing suit? Let me know terina1181@yahoo.com, subject, 2000 Lincoln lawsuit.

Okay, I have a 02 V8 with the Sport Package. I really love my car, but I am getting to the point that I want to drop kick the thing. I am the type of person that cannot stand issues being wrong with none of my cars, so I take them in like clock work.

It first started when my extended warranty ran out at 75000 miles. Lived in Wisconsin for most of the time, I noticed that the AC was not getting as cold as it should be. Took it in several times while under warranty. Ford said they could not find anything. Moved to Texas 2 years ago, took it in to the nearest dealer, found the problem right away. Cost was $600, luckily it was still under warranty.

While in Wisconsin, took it to my alignment guys who said the ball joints were bad. Ford refused to change them. When I moved to Texas, I did the same thing, Ford would not replace them.

Took it in this morning because the coolant light came on, and then the engine started sounding like a jet about to take off. This is only after the CD changer (spent $400, last week with an after market radio) ate 6 of my CD's and the rear driver door jammed.

Got a call from Ford today after taking it in, and found out it's going to cost me anywhere from $1900 to $2500 to get the hydraulic coolant fan motor, thermostat and door unjammed. What a waste - as I was hanging up the gentleman had the nerve to tell me the ball joints were bad.

I understand I am a woman, but I am not a dumb woman, I do my research. Found out that the HCFM they are trying to charge me for only is $359, where they want $600. I also found someone who will change my thermostat. Hopefully he will be able to do the HCFM, heck I will pay him the $600 that Ford wants to charge me for just the part.

I am going to let Ford do the door jam, but I am going to purchase the part and take it with me. Found it cheaper at an online dealer.

Since the call, I have been to many websites where people are just having issues with all the same common things on these LSs. If a lawsuit develops, please keep me abreast. I would not mind sticking Ford in the pocket.

DD.

As with any of my vehicles, I go on line and find a web site like this one, that either describes my car's problem, or recounts multiple stories of the same problem experienced by other car owners. I then print the comments, take them along with the car to the dealer, and ask "what is going on? This is either poor craftsmanship or defective parts. You tell me". I usually get discounted some of the labor cost (which I verify by a phone call to another dealership). I found that they can't argue with facts.

I have a 2002 Lincoln Ls V8. Having problem with "hard start" it just won't pop off when trying to start. Dealership has replaced fuel pump now twice. Coils have been replaced, valve gasket replaced. Sometime I have to turn the key off 2-3 times, and try to start? Anybody else with this problem? I also can smell a smell, not fuel, don't know what it is? Dealership says injectors are fine? What about that class action suit? vernsgirl1986@aol.com

I have a 2000 LS, which also has its problems. I purchased the car with 28000 miles and the handling package. The tires were done, but it was my fault for not knowing it would be 700-1000 for a set.

It already had one bad upper ball joint, probably due to not having a grease fitting.

The radio lights only work when they want to, mostly when the car is warm and you shut it off and restart.

Sometimes when you touch the volume control on the wheel it changes stations.

The trans hesitates when you shift from forward to reverse.

The warning bell chimes sometimes for no reason.

An oil leak under the valve cover caused a plug coil to burn out.

I'm not at 70000 yet.

2001 Lincoln LS Sport 64,000.

1. Airbag light has been on over a year. One Dealer wanted 700 dollars, another 300 to fix.

2. 2 Windows broke, off track.

3. Valve Job.

4. A.C. Line which runs across bottom of car broke

in two. 1,500 to replace.

5 Overheating.

6. Car making loud creaking noise now, ball joints?

7. Spinned wheels in snow once, auto track light has been coming on/off for 2 years now at various times.

8. Went for oil change/rotation yesterday, said lug nuts were striped and could not remove tire.

2001 LS V8 157,000 KM problems (Toronto Canada)

1. Replaced both lower ball joints (wheel Knuckles) and right upper ball joint (control arm)

2. Both front stabilizer bar links.

3. Both rear windows regulators.

4. Misfire check replace plugs no coils?, just cleaned oil from booth and retest for misfire.

5. Replaced both cover gaskets

6. Heating problem (test and replaced water pump)

7. Removed thermostat period.. car heats up fast enough even in the winter... then reset coolant/water mix to 50/50 (set mixture to your area)

8. Test & replace hydraulic cooling fan reservoir.

9. With the parking brake on, lower the fluid in reservoir by half, see below, put on the AC to max, this will trigger the hydraulic fan, raise rpm to 2000, look for return from top of pressure relief valve or side.

C/P

Hydraulic Cooling Fan Reservoir.

Reduce the fluid in the reservoir by half.

Attach the New Generation STAR (NGS) Tester to the vehicle.

Start the engine and command MAX fan.

Maintain 2,500 rpm. Fluid should be observed through the reservoir returning. The internal return also functions as a relief valve; fluid must be observed through the sides of the return. If the fluid is not returning through the sides the screen is plugged. If no or little return is observed or the fluid is returning through the pressure relief, install a new reservoir.

Hydraulic Cooling Fan Motor.

Inspect the fan blade and shroud for any foreign materials. Clear the obstruction and continue the test procedure.

Rotate the fan to see if any contact between the shroud and blade exists. If contact is observed install a new fan shroud assembly.

Rotate the fan by hand; the fan should rotate freely (no resistance should be felt, the fan will free wheel with minimum effort). If any resistance is present install a new fan assembly.

Attempt to move the fan blade and shaft in and out and side to side; if any movement is detected install a new fan assembly.

Hydraulic Cooling Fan Pump.

WARNING: Do not touch the flowmeter during the test procedure or severe burns and serious injury may occur.

CAUTION: Make sure that the connection point will not interfere with any of the engine accessory drive components or drive belts.

NOTE: On some vehicles the port may not be easily accessible. The power steering analyzer should then be hooked up at the hydraulic cooling fan motor or at a point in the high pressure line between the motor and the hydraulic cooling fan pump.

Install the power steering analyzer at the high pressure port of the hydraulic cooling fan pump. Make sure the power steering analyzer gate is fully open.

CAUTION: A noisy fan system must be bled and refilled before proceeding with any of the test procedures. For additional information, refer to Hydraulic Cooling Fan System Filling and Bleeding in this section.

Check the cooling fan hydraulic fluid level. If necessary, add fluid.

Use MERCON® Multi-Purpose (ATF) Transmission Fluid XT-2-QDX meeting Ford specification MERCON® or equivalent.

Remove the reservoir screen and place the dial thermometer in the hydraulic cooling fan reservoir.

Start the engine and allow the engine to warm up until the fan turns on.

Allow fluid temperature to reach 74-80°C (165-175°F).

Record the flow rate and pressure readings.

NOTE: The pressure relief valve will open at 1,050 ± 100 psi (7,240 kPa ± 689.5 kPa). If the pressure is above 1,200 psi (8,275 kPa), a new pump pressure relief valve must be installed.

Turn the A/C on MAX, and record the flow and pressure readings. The flow and pressure readings should increase.

If the flow and pressure readings do not increase, install a new hydraulic cooling fan pump.

Partially close the gate valve to achieve 300 psi (2,068.5 kPa). The flow rate should be 1.65 ±.25 gpm.

If the flow rate is less than specified, install a new hydraulic cooling fan pump.

2000 Lincoln LS V8.

To all you LS owners with foggy headlights or water trapped in the headlights, just drill 2 very small holes on each headlight on the bottom and the water will not get trapped inside. Doing this will also let air in, preventing fogging up and electrical shorts. That's the cheap alternative and prevention rather than replacing the headlights, or even fuses.

Vancouver Vic.

2000 LS V8 Sports - 107K - both driver and passenger window regulators are gone, would cost $900 to fix; I was just told I need two ball joins at $550 each (are they made of gold?), plus $200 labor for fixing it. Had the coil problem two years ago costs $800 to fix. Foggy lights (I fixed it by using transparent caulking for fixing sinks).

I have a 2002 LS V8 Premium with... yes 35K miles. I bought the car new for my dad who is 80 now and drives once a week. Dad never had a problem with this 45 thousand dollar car, but I have started driving the car a bit to work, but when I get off the freeway the temperature gage (right before my eyes) pegs and the computer says "check engine temperature". Then within 10 or so seconds goes to "Reduced engine power" leaving me fighting to get it to the parking lot.

Now when I check the engine, I can tell having past service tech experience that the car is not hot. Sometimes I can just restart it and all the problems go away, so it is absolutely a computer issue.

Some have mentioned that it is bad programming and that sounds about right. I have a hard time with the idea that oil soaked plugs are the cause, because otherwise the car runs like a rabid dog, besides the plugs are new @ 25K miles.

My conclusion is that the LS is a good concept not ideally executed. Buy a BMW.

I have a 2002 V6 LS. I bought it about 3 months ago and it has close to 120k miles. I have put close to 20k on it since I travel for work.

I have had no engine problems with it, but my overhead lights don't work and yesterday, Thanksgiving, I was driving and it sputtered. I thought nothing of it since I just drove a 500 mile trip, and Dukes of Hazzard it over an on ramp, but had no trouble. Then what I am guessing is some type of release valve for the coolant popped open and shot out all of my coolant, and it was attempting to overheat. At the gas station some guy pushed that thing back in and added water to it. I drove to a mechanic shop and they screwed it back in and I still have no trouble.

I am about to drive 12 hours for business and I have no clue if it is fixed and I am slightly worried. If anyone has had the same problems, please send me an e-mail so I don't have to take it to the dealer yet... but reading the reviews, I don't think that time is far away.

My e-mail is b_mark54@yahoo.com subject it as lincoln and any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I came across this site looking for answers to the smell of burnt oil which I know now it is the valve covers. My girlfriend has had her 2002 LS V8 sport for 2 years now and had a couple of problems: Air bag light (bad clock spring) and stalling anytime over 45 mph (new battery fixed that). She bought it used with 45000 miles and now it has 70000 on it. Other than the chrome peeling off the wheels it has been fine. It is a sharp car and when it is all shined up it turns heads. The brakes squealed too but all it was the anti rattle clips. It has been a good car, but after seeing this site I will be waiting for the next issue!

I have a 02 V8 LS, great car to drive, good on brakes but has the other problems, has 160,000 kilometres on it now. Interior and body are standing up well.

One problem I have that I have not noticed in the many I have read is: the heater controls will not allow heat into the car until about 20 minutes have gone by, then the heat blasts out for about 3 minutes, then again I have no heat for another 20 minutes. Does anyone know why?