1985 Mazda RX7 GSLSE from North America - Comments

Everything that could go wrong did.

Had to replace the oil cooler and lines - $500.

Exhaust flanges broke.

Numerous emissions problems, some of which still are not fixed.

Constant alignment problems (due to a collision with a pole).

Car eats plugs and wires (at least two sets per season).

Plugs, cap, rotor, wires and air filter, total bill.... about $300.

Customer service from Mazda sucks. They don't seem to want to admit that the RX-7 was their car. That's too bad because it was one of the greatest cars ever created.

I gave my dealer about $3000 over the last two years. The best they could do is shrug their shoulders. The mechanic who worked on my car claims to have 20 years rotary experience. I have owned two of them and read the manual from cover to cover. I know more about that engine than this so-called rotary expert. Mazda, bring back the seven. Not the eight. The seven.

The Mazda RX-7 is the best car I had ever seen. Forget the eight, we want the seven.

My friends car is having the same problems, so how can it be the best? Maby I'm not wraped in this Fast And The Ferious fad, but I have seen much better cars then a early model RX-7. But as for the RX-7, Yes I have noticed a great ammount of problems with my freind's engine, such as an unusuall about of gas sucking around town (4-7 mpg)

I've had no problems at all with either of my gsl-se.You guys must have got one that had not had the proper maintenance done. just change the the oil every 2000 to 3000 miles and theres not much that can go wrong. Theres only 3 primary moving parts in the whole engine!!!

I've had my '85 GSL-SE since May of '96 (with 102,000 miles) and it has been the best car I've owned. Sure there are little problems typical of an 18 year old car, but now at 209,000 miles it runs like a dream! I've replaced 2 of the catalytic converters, the muffler & pipe; Tires & brakes (obviously) ; battery; spark plugs (every 30,000 miles) ; I've upgraded the plug wires to "Magnecor"; I use Mobile synthetic oil (15w 50 in summer, 10w 30 in winter) and either Fram doubleguard, Pure One, or Mazda oil filters; I only use gasoline 92 octane or higher; and I keep up on checking fluids. The car starts on the first try every time! Gas mileage varies quite a bit depending on how I drive, but averages around 16 or 17 mpg. I need to replace/rebuild the AC compressor and fix the cruise control, but otherwise the car is mechanically sound.

I heard you should only use mineral oil in rotary engines?

You do not need to use special oil. In fact, do not use synthetic oil for the first few thousand miles when braking in a new engine. The rotary engine injects oil into the combustion chamber for lubrication of the apex seals. This is why rotaries burn a quart of oil or so every 3K miles (check your oil regularly.) Also, there is no need to use hi octane gas in a rotary, unless it is a turbo. A good 87 octane with a clean burning additive is fine. Check out these websites for very good rx-7 related information.

http://www.nellump.net/peri/rotaryrckt/default.html

http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/rx7.html

http://www.atkinsrotary.com/

Hope this helps.

Andy Anderson '84 GSL-SE.

'85 stumble is frustrating, but seems to have cause from auxiliary exhaust port valves not functioning correctly due to multi-side application design and poor exhaust pressure triggering. Read much about 3400 - 3800 stumble due too bad boost grounding and electrical connections, but have written those conclusions off for my condition. Problem came from original driver never "flooring" the engine and carbon build up on auxiliary exhaust ports. Made new gasket for auxiliary exhaust port pods to ensure no pressure leak and pods open at same time again, but seem to open late. Expect clogged exhaust at 1st, 2nd, and 3rd catalytic converters (stinks to have to replace these at $200+ each.) Have not tried to use air pump in place of exhaust to open pods, but seems a good idea if removal and cleaning of exhaust system cannot be achieved.

Fuel system and notes about fuel rail leak disturbing, but a straight forward repair.

Little information on vacuum sensor designation and location for 85 in Haynes manual (never the best written there) and change in following year makes replacement sensors harder to find.

Oil...use only what the manual identifies exactly and stay away from additives. Most of todays oils will smoke excessively.