Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-90, 91-105, 106-120, 121-135, 136-146
Well maybe some people have the money and ideas to do as they wish, everyone to their own I say.
Getting over 200BHP in a HDi without an engine replacement and NOS is extremely difficult!
Mines got 166BHP & 288 lbs of torque.
It has racing clutch, uprated gearbox, racing front & rear disc brakes, HUGE FMIC, tuned fuel pump, tuned turbo running 22PSi, methanol injection system, uprated straight through xorst, uprated induction kit and a nice map. Not too aggressive.
There is room for more as I have yet to put on my uprated mani, bigger pump, bigger turbo and more aggressive remap.
I'm not going to bother stripping the car and adding lighter engine parts, as I will have to fork out a further couple of thousand. There really is no point in going anymore, when I get bored of her I will buy a new, standard faster car.
:-)
Why do all this tuning with a diesel? Why not make life easier and start with a petrol turbo? You will still have lots of torque but also the BHP to go with it.
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I agree to an extent. For all out performance get a turbo petrol.
However for somebody wanting reasonable performance and economy, a tuned derv makes a lot of sense. I have a modified diesel, which only cost £300 to take from 100bhp upto 150bhp and 0-60 has gone from 9.7 seconds (book time) down to an estimated 8 seconds dead; possibly less given the cars that mine is now faster than. All this and I still get well over 45mpg (last fill up 48mpg mixed driving). The car is a Rover 25 diesel BTW.
£300? Thought it would cost more than that.
"I agree to an extent. For all out performance get a turbo petrol.
However for somebody wanting reasonable performance and economy, a tuned derv makes a lot of sense. I have a modified diesel, which only cost £300 to take from 100bhp upto 150bhp and 0-60 has gone from 9.7 seconds (book time) down to an estimated 8 seconds dead; possibly less given the cars that mine is now faster than. All this and I still get well over 45mpg (last fill up 48mpg mixed driving). The car is a Rover 25 diesel BTW"
Couldn't have said it better myself. I'm a student, for a petrol equivalent car to the spec and power of my diesel would crush me in both fuel and funny enough insurance. (Petrol hot hatches are more expensive to insure than my tuned HDi)
I will eventually move on to a petrol turbo'd car, probably a Japanese RWD, but for now I like my Derv!
Getting a Turbo Diesel to increase its power up to about 50BHP, all that's needed is a turbo and fuel pump tune, which can be done D.I.Y or cheap by the right garage, and also a stage 1 re-map. Hey presto, £300!
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The Rover diesels are particularly cheap because you can use the injectors out of the older 200/400/600 rover diesels in the newer ones (25/ZR/ZS/45) and the power will be increased significantly.
I picked up an older type set of injectors off ebay for less than £20 delivered, then with a remap (£200 ish), decat pipe (£40) and sports panel filter (£30) the car is running somewhere around that figure (plenty of others with these mods have got higher (160bhp the highest and then lowest just over 150bhp) but I'm being on the conservative side.
Just a remap will only get you upto maybe 130bhp, but with the injectors you have a lot more fuel to play with (which is why you need filter and decat to keep smoke down) + a boost increase.
I have a 2.0L HDi XS d-turbo... I was thinking of getting an induction kit on and was wondering if any one has one on their HDi? How does it sound...? Does it add much power and it is harder on fuel...???
You probably won't hear much over the clatter of a diesel engine, especially as a turbo is whistling anyway most the time.
Performance wise I would expect very little gain without more fuel for the air to burn. If it is an open cone, you might get a bit more performance higher in the revs where the quantity of air will outweigh the increased temperature from the engine bay, but low down I would have thought heat soak would reduce power and cause a bit more bog down. A sports panel filter in the OE airbox perhaps with better cold air feed is normally best for more power, but again it won't do much without more fuel to make use of.
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Can some one explain the passive rear wheel steering... on a 306 HDi D turbo... Think most 306s have it.
The compliance bushes in the rear suspension are specially designed to allow the rear wheel alignment to change slightly under cornering loads. This gives a rear wheel steering effect.
It is a design feature of the 306's rear suspension, and applies to all models.
Still one of the best FWD chassis ever produced.