1992 SAAB 9000 Hatchback from North America - Comments

A/C compressor was broken when I bought it. Took $600 off the price and found one at airpartsonline. com for $220.

AC Hose has slow leak, probably cause of failure of previous compressor.

PCV nipple and elbow and assoc grommet replaced.

The previous owner had fitted siped H-rated (M+S) bargain crap tyres, not a good idea on the 205/50/15 Aero rims. A set of Bridgestone Potenza S03 pole positions sorted that mistake nicely. Now the car has the grip to match its torque. If you want winter tyres, get some stock 4x108mm steels from either a lower spec model (e.g CD) or the older 900 had the same size/bolt pattern, and 195/60/15s with WS-50 Blizzaks work extremely well.

I've hauled washing machines, beds, I even slept stretched out in the back at Pikes Peak this year. Can't understand why anyone would prefer a sedan/saloon car given the choice.

The turbos do need to be idled before and especially after a thrashing, get a turbo timer, use synthetic oil every 5000 miles (10W30 Mobil) and Saab filters, flush coolant every 2 years (this is a water cooled turbo) and you should avoid most problems.

Dealer part prices high-ish, but reasonable, lots of online places have most stuff cheaper, plenty of enthusiast sites and tuners eg swedish dynamics, Saabnet etc.

Seriously fast, needs care to launch as TCS will allow some slippage, 1st gear is boost limited anyway, get into second before you really mash it. 140mph plus easily achieved, 0-60 in 7secs or less, 1/4mile in the high 13s stock.

I have a 92 9000t and have been over 140, I think it will do close to 155 if given the chance. I want to test it with a G-Tech, but I believe my car is in the 6.7ish range 0-60.

6.7 0-60 is possible with the 91/92s as they were shorter geared and lighter than the '93 on, and the 16" wheels lend themselves to acceleration better than the later 17s (Aeros), don't know about top speed of much over 145 though as the short gearing tends to limit you there. This car really excells at the 30-80 burst though, Id love to see some G-Tech data on rolling starts. Post your times and mods (if any).

I have seen plenty of pre-93 9000's post sub 7 9 (6.5~6.9) sec 0-60s with minor (eg chip/filter) or no mods (6.8), but as pointed out above, with the slight lag of the full pressure turbos and the 1st gear limiter (unless you delete APC with an XS boost controller or similar), this car works best in the 30-80 zone. I have only seen a 145mph max, but 150 is likely with a chip/filter/exhaust (you probably need at least 15% more power to make the extra 5mph, even if the 'box ratios will allow it) I had a little problem with brake fade (mostly due to old pads) so I fitted Zimmerman drilled front discs, Mintex pads, cured it nicely, the 60-0 is better than ever!

I have a 92 9000 griffin 1 of 400 made (i believe)

Pros: very nice car, superb acceleration for a midsize car, quality for price is second to none. turbo charger makes for an interesting ride and a rice burner killer.

Chiks dig the styling.

Cons: 1st gear limiter will make drag racing interesting. very very very expensive to maintain, easier on wallet to do own work.

Overall: would reccomed the 140mph groccery getter to anyone with money.

Update; Car now has 148,000, transmission and clutch replaced recently, fair wear and tear as it had 100k before it came to me (trans $1800, clutch $400), TCS fault cured with a TCS safety valve ($90 part), but turbo oil seals leaking on start so its probably time to consider a rebuild, $800 for an exchange turbo ($150 core). New front discs and pads at 135k ($150), zimmerman x-drilled discs stop noticeably better, mintex pads don't fade with hard road use. CV boots at 120k, $30 for parts, but a messy job to repack joints.

With all that fixed its ready for another 150k. More tires, Bridgestone SO-3s lasted 24k which is good for a soft tire, Now on Bridgestone RE-750s which don't give away much dry grip, but last better (higher treadwear index). Seats as good as ever, interior has a few more nicks owing to cargo hauling, but leather still good. 28mpg on road trips and high speed cruising, can be brought down to 22 with town and xxx mph bursts.

Car now at 170,000 miles, cabin blower motor failed due to old age, could have used a brush kit for $30, but the armature was worn and uneven, so I went with a new motor for $60 and swapped over the fan cage. The ACC would not work, turns out I had the original ACC fan speed controller which was modified under a TSB, so that was a $110 replacement.

New cabin filter ($17) completed the job, but they say when you have the fan assy out you should replace heater core as a precaution, wasn't hard to get at so I left it for another day. I discovered my cruise control hose detached at the bulkhead so I cured a boost leak, now she's blowing hard into the red again, and no oil bleed.

Radiator elbow cracked so I dropped in new radiator ($180), upper and lower hoses ($18) fan switch ($25) water pump ($68), and belts ($33) and found the idler pulley bearings were on their way out, so I replaced idler pulley, tensioner and serpentine belt tensioner shock for $168.

Replaced another fuel filter and seals ($10), and spotted a split drain line near the filler neck, replaced for $6. I replaced the hatch emblem for $20, after damaging it with a pressure washer.

All things considered, replacing fair wear and tear items on a car this age is still cheaper than payments and insurance on a newer car, and there isn't much out there with this mix of performance and practicality at the price, it still drives and handles tight, so if you're considering one of this age and mileage, you shouldn't be too afraid if it's had regular oil changes and doesn't smoke on start or idle. The few I've seen are around $2500 with 150-180k, so you can budget for some parts and still have a solid car for less than $3000.