Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-90, 91-95
We have a 2001 Subaru. It sounds like we have had all the same problems that many of the others have had, but yet, I would say overall that the car has been a worthwhile purchase. We have 120K miles on the car. We simply ignore the check engine light. We have a radio with a clock, so the clock that doesn't work is no problem. During the summer on long trips we get 30 mpg, but during the winter it goes down to about 25-26. We have had numerous bearing replacements, all of which have been covered by Subaru after complaining. They replaced the last set of bearings with Legacy bearings and we haven't had any problems since. Since we were going on a cross-country trip, I had the timing belt replaced. Now we're half-way across the country and will need to have the front right axle seal replaced. The seal is completely broken. Guess I would buy another one when this one dies completely. We're hoping to get another six years or so out of the car.
I have a 2002 Forester S with 100,000 miles (purchased at 60,000 from the Subaru dealer in 2006). Within weeks, the back left wheel bearing was grinding and replaced. Other than the clock quitting, the car runs great.
Now, at 100,000 miles, the Check Engine light is on and the dealer tells me I need a new catalytic converter at a cost of $1,100. They reset the light and charged me $100.
The car still runs great, has good gas mileage, with no smell(s) from the catalytic converter. Why would this car need a new one?
I love my 2001 Forester, but, I have had so many problems as well. I thought due to a nasty flash flood, but I guess not! I have 182,000 miles, many off road. It takes me anywhere. I was stranded in a tiny town in Canada for 4 days while the clutch was replaced at 40,000 miles. Seems parts are hard to come by, even in Southwestern PA. Next clutch at 180,000--not bad. I've been lucky with only 4 brake jobs & 2 batteries.
It's the wheel bearings, seals, axles, and the check engine light that have given me trouble. All wheel bearings replaced at least once, the right rear is on it's 3rd, Left rear on it's 2nd. Both axles were replaced at around 70,000 miles. I'm looking at tire rods, ball joints and one other part in that area being repaired soon. Did I mention the CV boots? I also had something done with the shift differential at about 160,000--quite expensive as well.
On the bright side, I drive my car hard & it maintains its alignment, and it only has one odd rattle in the hatch. I consistently get 25-28 miles to the gallon and most of my driving is hilly or city. My catalytic converter has been fine, too.
In some ways, misery loves company, but at the same time I'm sad to realize these are not just my problems and I may not have any better luck with another Subaru.
By the way, I have been told many things/diagnosis about the check engine light and had it reset an uncountable number of times since 5,000 miles. I gave up a long time ago on doing anything beyond resetting it & so far no ill effects.
Okay, I like my 02 Forester; not the looks, but how it handles. Great in snow with good tires.
Bought it used at 40K, and I'm now at 94K. I drive mainly highway during any given week.
In the 2 years I have owned this vehicle, I have fixed the clock (thanks to the published DIY fix on the web).
I have replaced a rear wheel bearing ($400+).
Torn inner CV boot on passengers side (the shop could not get the 1/2 shaft out, which is frozen into the wheel hub, even with a 5 ton press $200). I just hope I never have to replace that wheel bearing.
Knock sensor need replacing.
Numerous check engine lights that resets themselves, and are off for a week and then back on (hopefully related to the knock sensor as I have one ordered).
Snow freezes and builds up easily on the inside of the rear rims, throwing the tire (s) extremely out of balance, not what you want to deal with on the way home from work, after dark, in the middle of winter. Apparently the snow gets in there on the way to work in the morning, melts, does not drain out of the rim, and then refreezes once the sun sets. When this happens, the whole car shakes violently. It sounds like another wheel bearing is going. In all the vehicles I have owned, I have never replaced a wheel bearing, and most were over 130K+ when I got rid of them.
Rotors are warped, which I need to replace before winter.
If gas was not so expensive - I'd not be driving this and still have my 4 wheel drive pickup.
Oh yeah, the clutch shudder has been there since I have owned it - fortunately it is only there for the first few times you shift each day or when it has sat for a few hours.
Another Subaru? Hhhmmm - probably not.
Bought my 2001 Forester new, have had it serviced faithfully, mostly by Subaru dealerships.
Had to fork over nearly $500 this week for replacement of rear right wheel bearing and seals
Check engine light has spent more time on than off in the last 18 months. At least $90 a crack to catch the code and reset the indicator. First CEL incident, we replaced a solenoid. Light went on again. Second incident, O2 sensor was replaced. Light went on again. Third time the dealership seems to have fixed the problem by cleaning out the hoses leading to the canister.
The car has always handled well and gas mileage has been okay, but this was my first -- and will be my last -- Forester. Probably my last Subaru.
Common sense would dictate that if the company has to issue a TSB on repeated wheel bearing failures, they should notify the owners -- at the very least by having the dealers inform them when they come in for general service.
Having long ago discarded my maintenance records on previous cars, I can't be completely sure of this, but I believe, on the basis of personal recollection, that this is the most expensive-to-maintain car I've ever owned, as a percentage of purchase price.
I am not a happy man.
I also own a 2001 Forester with 89,000 miles (well maintained, original owner). Have had both wheel bearings (2x's) replaced and are going again if noise is any indication. Had three CD changers (dealer always put in rebuilt ones). Had O2 censors replaced (both). Had CEL sensor replaced. Clock has not been working for awhile now and just yesterday, rear view mirror went (blob of liquid is obstructing view). To the person who said that they found a fix on DIY for the clock, could you please tell me the site?
Here is the clock fix from scoobymods.com. The problem stems from a cold solder joint on one of the surface mount resistors. Very easy to fix with nothing more than a soldering iron and 5 minutes.
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6386
Hope this helps.
I own a 2001 Subaru Forrester with 127k miles from new. It has been very reliable, but I have suffered many of the problems listed. I do most of the maintenance on my cars as one cannot trust the mechanics in this town. On the bearings, there is a large bolt on bottom of the rear hub that connects the hub to the lower suspension member. When this bolt is over-torqued it distorts the hub and causes premature bearing failure (about every 26k miles). The first time-round the dealer replaced the bearings under warranty at 26k, when they failed again at 56k I did them myself. The bearing and seals cost <$40 per wheel and it takes about 1.5 hours, per wheel. From the look of the hubs they had used a large hammer to get them apart, not-impressed. Have not had bearing problems since. The clutch shudder is caused by the OEM material used in the friction plate, mine shudder most when a little damp, also the clutch material burns very easily. I have had the most trouble with the spark plug wires, they seize to the spark plugs and get damaged every time the plugs are replaced. I usually replace the wires. Currently I have motor oil leaking into the spark plug holes and causing a small misfire, (using Mobil-1). I have had the CEL, catalytic converter, knock sensor, O2 sensor trilogy so the light is currently off. Putting the Subaru goop in the anti-freeze fixed the interminable coolant leaks.
I own a 2001 Forester Subaru. I have 163,000 miles. Recently replaced the CV boot (passenger side) and the axle (passenger side). Dealer told me I needed to replace the head gaskets because of 'seepage.' Later found out, all subarus suffer from seepage problems. Now, I have a 'shake and pull' in the wheel. It's intermittent and never happens when the mechanic drives the car. Dealer told me I needed to replace the steering gear box. I had it to 5 mechanics - some say steering problems; others say nothing's wrong. Driving me crazy! I had the car aligned but shimmy, shake, pull continues. Now I'm told to get new tires. Car is also very noisy - I now have a hearing problem from turning the volume up on my radio too loud. Would I buy another Subaru? - nope - I got 265,000 miles from Nissan Altima with one repair.
The thing I'm most unhappy about is the Subaru Dealerships - not only do they 'mis-diagnose,' but they overcharge for everything.
Susan.
Is there any cure for the rear view mirror blob that has shown up in my 2001 Forester?
Reads like a Halloween thriller! Pretty scary!
I've owned 9 subaru's over the years and loved them... until my 2003 Outback when the factory rep advised me that the "clunking" when I changed from reverse into drive was caused because the "computer brain" learned it from me, the driver. I missed them though and just this week bought a 2001 Forester. Oops! THEN I read this blog. On the way home I heard a mysterious grinding sound and discovered the clock didn't work. Guess I should have remembered my disappointment with the subaru regime I had trouble with before.
Good luck all!
To Susan with the "shake and Pull"--check your lug nuts. Mine was doing same thing, took it to repair shop as we have no Subaru dealerships nearby--they said to TRADE. A few days later, I had pulled the car around back and looked down--I had a lug nut missing. Got a new one, had it checked all around and all of them were a little loose--fixed the problem with about $1.00. Susie.
I actually think I am the most pleased here- for the most part. 2000 Subaru Forester- was told it was actually made in Japan. I have had the knock sensor replaced, the driver side passenger door rubber fixed. At 110K the timing belt (routine). Recently the check engine light went on- catalytic converter inefficiency. Needed rotors cause bozos who put brakes on at 90K miles- did so incorrectly and turn the rotors twice. A great Subaru only shop in Denver did the repairs. Reset the catalytic converter and said to NOT USE CONOCO gas. I guess it doesn't burn well. Any one in Denver knows that it is near impossible to not use Conoco. Said to use Shell or Diamond Shamrock. We will see, the jury is out on that one. Of course the clock doesn't work and is annoying. 150K and hoping for more.
I bought the 2001 Subaru Forester new. Right from the beginning both rear bearings went. Under warranty the dealer replaced them. Happened again a year
later again the dealer replaced the right rear bearing. After the warranty ran out it happened to the left side fixed it myself. Then the problem with the check engine light. Replaced solenoid and o sensor,was OK for awhile then back again. Mechanics seem to be playing guessing game and all we do is spend money to fix problems that we are not even sure exist. The Subaru Co. seems to be ignoring the problems with this model. It was my third Subaru it will be my last.
I bought my 2001 Subaru Forester new. And have had all the same problems mentioned in this list. I am currently looking at replacing the passenger side inner cv boot. I have had to shell out over $600 to fix the last rear wheel bearing and front drivers side cv boot. I only have 68,000 on this car. This is very sad, as I like the way the car drives very much. I am looking at a new Honda Element in the future. Since my Forester is payed for I had hoped to get may more miles than this before replacing it. I will avoid Subaru's in the future.