Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-90, 91-96
I've had a 2002 Forrester from new. Has rattled and squeaked underneath the whole time. Mechanic said it was idler bearing, then clutch. Both replaced (over $2,000) and no difference! Gearbox clunks a lot, but mechanic says can't find the source. Dealer has driven the car with me and heard the constant scraping and screeching and then 'tightened' underneath and claimed the sound was gone, but as soon as I got in I realised nothing was changed. Dealer shrugged. There is an engine noise that sets off the knock sensor, but the mechanic can't diagnose it beyond saying it could be debris in the cylinder bore that might rectify itself. It constantly burns and leaks oil. I wouldn't buy another one.
Driving a 1997 Single Turbo Forester Auto (RHD) in the Japan Alps. Bought at auction at 50,000km, now 96,000km. Rear bearing noise gradually getting worse, but hard to know if it's left or right. Possibly carrying a lot of weight on and off has exacerbated this condition. Because rear wheel bearings are so difficult for an owner to change it makes failure a major issue. In Japan, s/h Foresters have become relatively cheap at auction, especially the accident/repair category (for last owners), so scrapping before 100,000km can be the way to go. The timing belt needs changing at 100,000km, and then there’s the oil pump to look at. Factor in new brakes and battery and its good money after bad.
There are some serious hairpin bends out here, and although you can handbrake it round (even with an auto) the transmission tends to go "gritty". Occurs to me that there is a transmission fluid surge, which soon corrects itself. Piston slap is more of an aesthetic problem if you can put up with a “diesel” for the first few kilometres.
One other detail; power steering fluid loss was traced to a gland unscrewing itself from the manifold. Easy enough to retighten by hand once you put the wheel on lock and jack up. But borderline impossible to get a spanner on; you end up tapping it tight with a long screwdriver and hammer. Considering the lack of durability, Foresters over seven years old/70-80,000km should be discounted into the ground. Shame, because in other ways a good motor with a turn of speed and OK ground clearance.
I have had a 2001 S Limited (posh, leather seats, etc.) from when it was new. I have personally meticulously maintained it. It has 90,000 k (54,000 miles) on it at present.
I have had three problems with this vehicle, one serious:
1. The clutch wore out at 45,000 k (27,000 miles). Replaced clutch, pressure plate, throughout bearing, and had the flywheel turned. Just now, 1t 89,000 k (53,000 miles), the clutch plate friction pads suddenly disintegrated on the highway, without warning. There was literally no friction material left on the clutch plate when disassembled. I am very proficient at using a clutch (have a 1992 Prelude with its original clutch, went 18 years with a Corola without replacing the clutch, etc.) and so am really displeased. There is clearly something profoundly wrong with the mechanics of this clutch, or perhaps, of the slave cylinder and linkage.
2. Had a front O2 sensor fail, but this may well be a chain reaction from the third failure:
3. Had a spark plug wire fail at its connection to the spark plug, causing misfires, etc.
I bought a 2002 Subaru Forrester new. I have all the same problems listed in all the previous complaints. I will drive it until it dies and never buy another Subaru product again. Ignore the engine light, why spend a bunch of money for a dealer to fix something that cannot be fixed. The only good feature is that it is good in the snow. Other than that don't buy one.
I have a broken mirror does not work
Poor visibility to the rear and sides when driving
poor room in the rear seat
interior is ugly and cheap
engine leaks and burns oil
check engine light has a mind of it;s own
wears out tires quickly
a pig on gas
mushy unreliable brakes
clock worked for a month, never worked again.
Overall my Subaru experience has been a bummer.
We own a 2001 Forester w/auto trans that has 120K on it. Purchased used in 03 with 47K on it (bald tires included!) Its mainly our road trip/camping car. I agree with the cheap cup holder and engine light issues. Cup holder broke, but I was able to fix it using a small screw to act as the plastic guide/nub that broke off. Engine light has been on for almost a year now. Dealer states error code is cat converter. Luckily my podunk county is still emission exempt so it still passes inspection anyway. Woohoo! I'm going to put some black tape over that light however. I haven't had any wheel bearing or tranny issues yet, but I have smelled what is probably burnt oil from a head gasket that was mentioned on other posts. I've had 1 torn CV boot replaced and the O2 sensor that was recalled. Also had timing belt replaced at 110K and that's it besides brakes, tires,1 tune up and oil changes. I need to mention that I immediately installed a tow hitch to pull my dirt bikes and camping gear. For a 4 banger, it tows my loaded trailer great. And that's with gear on the roof rack with a fully loaded passenger compartment. It has been put to the test towing a load over steep grades in hot summer temps. And believe me, its also seen plenty of dirt roads in the Utah mountains and deserts. This is also the best winter car I have owned so far. The winter package is great for cold climates. Once paid off, I drive cars into the ground while performing my own maintenance, then donate them to the Kidney Foundation for a tax write off. Cars are machines and are going to break. But for what we paid, we've got our money's worth out of our 2001 Subaru Forester. That or we've been extremely fortunate.
Like some of the people on here, I too have a love hate relationship with my Forester. It's a 2000 model that I just bought as my first car only 4 months ago. After about two months it started to hesitate when I stepped on the accelerator. By the end of the week the problem had gotten worse. So bad in fact that by the end of the same week that the problem started, the car would barely even move after every stop sign or stop light and it happened numerous times a day. I took the car to the shop and they replaced both O2 sensors and reset the computer at a cost of $530. Not even a month later the light came back on and about a week later so did the hesitating, but not quite as bad. The light kept going on and shutting off and the car continued to intermittently hesitate. I took it back in and the computer pulled up the O2 sensor code again, but the mechanic said they were both fine and he reset the system and gave me a bottle of engine cleaner thinking I might have a fouled up fuel system. Only 15 days after getting the car back the CEL went back on and the hesitation resumed.
I really love this car. I can take it anywhere, no road required and it's a shame that Subaru won't fix these problems. My family has never had a problem with Subarus, but the other cars were all pre 2000 models. This is a horrible experience to have with your first car especially after just 4 months. If I start having any of the other problems people mention then I'm through with Subaru. They used to make good cars, but they decided sacrificing quality for price was the better route. >: (
Nice to have found this forum. Until right now, I have been reassured that I am the only Subaru owner in history to have all these problems. Mine's a 2001 Forester L.
Typical stuff: 2 clutches (I sold my Mazda with 150,000 miles on it, after 8 years living in San Francisco! The Subaru clutch doesn't last 50,000 miles in flat Denver -- not the mountains, but DENVER!) O2 sensor, some O2 sensor assist, catalytic converter, brake solenoid, CV boot (axle replacement), and now the anti knock sensor. Timing sucks as I need to have it smogged, so I need to pay $200 to have the knock sensor replaced. I plan to drive straight from the shop to the DMV because that #@%$&* check engine light doesn't stay off for more than a day!
I want all wheel drive with a standard transmission in a vehicle that can handle my regular trips to Home Depot. Subaru is the only thing that fits that bill. But, having read this forum, I now KNOW that I'm not the guy with the bad Subaru in a thousand, but rather, I'm a guy with a Subaru. Guess I'll have to give up the 5 spd & go with a Toyota or Honda. (Wife's 2001 Civic has never been in the shop for anything other than oil & brake pads.)
We own a 2000 Forester L (the deluxe one with the heated seats, leather interior and bigger tires). It has only 60k, but just had the automatic transmission replaced by the dealer to the tune of $2400 (ouch - and for a used one!). At first it idled a little rough. Then it started to hesitate sometimes when shifting into drive (but no problems shifting into reverse). Got progressively worse until it would not go into drive even if I gunned the engine a little. We have not had many of problems noted by other owners. But there are some minor issues like the overhead clock not working, had to replace windshield, replaced one the gas struts for the rear hatch, etc. No problems with headlamps, CEL, O2 sensors or wheel bearings. Had the right front axle replaced twice due to torn CV joint boot (how does city driving do that?). ABS is poor. Drove it in Santa Fe for first 4 years - wanted the AWD and ground clearance. Was on the fence about buying Subaru again, but after reading the other posts, we'll stick to Honda - no problems with our 98 Accord - 140k and only needs scheduled service. Runs like a charm. BTW, Subaru dealer service is ridiculous. The 60k maintenance was $700. For Honda, major scheduled maintenance is almost half that.
I have owned a 2001 Forester S for over a year now. About 6 months ago started noticing that the car would not move when put in first gear. It would just sit for 15 to 20 seconds. Had the transmission flushed and fluid and filter changed and it seemed to help for a little while and then it started again. Now is getting progressively worse. Check engine light came on and code was 3rd cylinder not firing. So had spark plugs and wires replaced and that took care of that. Now have a cracked boot and brakes need to be replaced. I really like the car, but after reading comments from other Forester owners on the Internet about their problems, especially the transmission problem, I am worried. My Forester has 84,000 miles on it. You would think that Subaru would do something about these extensive common problems.
I own a 2003 Forrester and have learned to dislike it. It now has a piston slap so loud it's embarrassing to drive around. It is also a gas pig. It lacks acceleration oomph. Would I buy another Subaru? Absolutely not! Unfortunately my son bought an Impreza last year and has had issues with it too.
I bought a 2001 Subaru Forester new. This is the fourth Subaru owned by me and a 1999 Legacy I have now has been perfect. There are 110,000 miles on the Forester. I only had regular maintenance done until about 100,000 miles. Then the clock went (I repaired this using the soldering suggestion found here) and also the O2 sensor and driver's side rear wheel bearing replaced. The front brake caliper stuck and damaged the brake system in good shape. I really like the car, but not the problems. This will be my last Subaru.
2001 Forester S, 125K miles.
Blown head gaskets-repaired under warranty, but warranty didn't cover the ruined radiator from overheat condition. For some reason, the temp gage never moved.
Rear tires wear out prematurely due to under-designed rear wheel bearings which need replacement every 50K miles.
All radio and heater control lights have failed.
Lower engine cover is a pain to remove/replace during oil changes. I threw mine away.
O2 sensor has failed three times.
Power sun roof drive failed at 60K miles- $600 replacement.
Driver's seat is disintegrating.
Clock failed.
Wiper arm drive bearing failed. $30 for new drive arm or $3 for modified Help! plastic bushing.
No more Subarus for me.
2001 Forrester bought new; now with 194,000K miles on it. Blown engine at 155,000 miles (big bang and opened hood to find tiny metal shards and hole in engine block); replaced with used 30,000 mile engine. Replaced clutch at same time as engine. Also replaced torn steering boots and ball joints. Had the check engine light come on way back at 50,000 miles and replaced O2 sensors a couple of times and then gave up and just bought an OBDII meter to read and reset the engine light periodically. Handles quite well in snow and rain. Other than catastrophic engine failure, no real complaints. Last week someone rammed my right front quarter; kinda wish they were going about 20 mph faster, then maybe I would bury this old girl.
I have a 2001 Outback. I like it, but when I first bought it two years ago the "misfire in cylinder 3 message" drove me crazy. I ran engine cleaner through the oil and gas, replaced all the spark stuff. A valve lash adjusment fixed it.
My clutch plate also disintegrated this December during a blizzard in the Idaho mountains. I'm not getting a clutch shudder with the new clutch, but it smells sometimes when I really have to use it in first gear. I'm wondering about the slave cylinder (which wasn't replaced) but it doesn't always smell and I'm guessing if the slave cylinder was bad it would always smell.
I have a 2001 Forester, purchased new, with 86k miles on it now. I live in Denver and really like the car. Great camping and ski car. Runs well, handles great in snow, and carries a lot of gear. We also have a Honda CR-V and I think the Forester is a better snow car.
Check engine light has been my main concern, like so many others have reported. Bothered me a lot early, but then I learned that they are finicky on these cars and now I don't worry about it too much. It currently says I need the anti-knock sensor. I'll probably buy one for $80 and install it myself to get the light off. Cat Convert was replaced by Subaru, along with O2 sensor, under warranty based on the light. Now I wonder if they were really bad. New spark plug wires took care of engine misfire. No problem since.
I noticed the clutch shudder right out of the gate. Annoying, but not a huge problem. My wife drives the car now and she has no problem with the clutch.
Subaru put their goo in the cooling system under recall and I have not had the head gasket problem. No problem with wheel bearings so far, but I'll be checking them soon. Looks like the key is to not use Subaru bearings.
I do not use dealers for repairs after the warranty runs out. I do it myself or take it to a more reasonably priced garage. You rarely need to use Subaru parts. There are plenty of good after-market replacements for things like wheel bearings and such. Good luck folks!