2001 Subaru Forester S from North America - Comments

I have a 2001 Subaru Forester bought used in 220 with just 7K miles, now has 63K. Everything was great until September 2007. I am on my sixth catalytic converter, O2 sensors replaced, clock does not work and CEL keeps going off. I just brought it in again today and awaiting the verdict. After reading these postings, my hope that it is a misaligned gas cap will probably be deflated. Unfortunately, I will not pass gas emissions with a CEL on. But maybe I can forgo a seventh cat. con and just have the CEL turned off when I go for my emissions test. This will be my last Subaru unless the company recalls whatever is going on with the cat. con and oxygen sensors. Otherwise, I've loved the car.

2001 Subaru Forester S, Riverside, CA, bought used at 100,000 miles, currently at 129,500 miles. It was well-maintained when I got it. According to its records a couple wheel bearings had been replaced but there were no other major issues. My overall assessment: I'm disappointed, have learned to live with minor faults, but have dodged some bullets so far. Here are my experiences and notes.

1. There is a Haynes manual for these Subarus. It costs less than $20 and is extremely useful. I am distrustful of all car mechanics and dealerships. Based on my own experiences, mechanics play on people's fears, misdiagnose problems, and yes, they do often recommend unnecessary repairs. I became a do-it-yourself-er 20 years ago and it has saved me thousands of dollars. This doesn't mean I do everything - it means finding a balance between doing straightforward maintenance and letting the pros do certain things.

2. Overheating: In late summer of 2007 the car started overheating. This was the result of coolant loss which I could not trace to any leak, suggesting it was a blown head gasket. I took it to the dealer in San Bernardino, and it turned out to be a radiator leak. The air conditioning seals were shot too, so I had those replaced and the system charged. These are repairs that are beyond me (though I could probably replace a radiator if needed).

3. Last month (February, 2008) the coolant levels started dropping again though I had not yet experienced any overheating. I first tried a new radiator cap (from AutoZone), which so far has seemed to solve the problem. I read elsewhere that the Genuine Subaru Coolant Conditioner additive can cause caps to not work properly. The radiator cap is a cheap maintenance item, worth changing out every year at least. (I'd still recommend using the Subaru additive, as it is supposed to help maintain the integrity of the head gaskets.)

4. I wear out the front brake pads, and warp the rotors, in 10 months (about 10K miles). I would blame the Subaru but my 1988 Toyota Camry (kept it to 227K miles) had the same problem. I don't downshift to engine brake (naughty me!) but I'd rather change out a set of pads and rotors than a clutch. I have two sets of rotors and get the warped set turned at Pep Boys after installing the other (turned) set. Changing pads and rotors is almost the exact same sequence of steps as on my 1988 Camry and I can do it in about 2 hours taking my time on a Saturday morning (cost: $50 for ceramic pads, $20 to have the rotors turned).

5. I change the oil myself every 5-7K miles. That avoids the risk that the Kwik-E-Lube will drain the transmission fluid by accident. I use cheap Chevron oil from Costco, and either Fram or Subaru oil filters.

6. Clutch issue in hot weather: When the weather is very hot (100F or hotter) the clutch pedal can go almost to the floor. My guess is that the clutch slave cylinder does not expand as much as the piston, which gets stuck. I've tried bleeding it when this happens (I keep a wrench and short length of plastic tubing in the car; this can be done fairly easily since the slave cylinder is just under the air filter/intake). Bleeding the clutch does fix the problem, probably because it cools the slave cylinder, but the problem still recurs and it turns out that leaving it alone fixes it too. As I haven't yet lost the ability to shift gears, I now just wait the problem out (driving as usual) and it so far it has always resolved after the engine cools down. (There is a replacement slave cylinder and hydraulic hose that you can get from Subaru, but it makes the pedal feel harder. I haven't done this repair.)

7. I have not had any wheel bearing issues as of yet.

8. The clutch judders like crazy on cold mornings. I stopped caring.

9. The clock stopped working. It was the same solder joint problem as others have found.

10. Mileage is poor (21 MPG city, 25 MPG hwy). Could be my driving habits.

11. I had the dealership change out the timing belt at 105K miles. Too much hassle to do it myself and - unlike my '88 Camry - a blown or wrongly installed belt can cause damage to the engine.

12. The check engine light issue: My light comes on from time to time. Using an AccuTron scanner (a worthy $120 investment; it also allows you to clear the codes), the code is always P0420 (low catalyst efficiency). But the thing is, I think the catalytic converter is fine. No one on these forums has associated a particular cause with their CEL light coming on, but mine has a cause, which is lugging the engine in 5th gear at 60 mph. As soon as I do that for even a few seconds, the CEL will turn on within a minute. The cure is avoiding lugging the engine (duh), or changing the spark plugs. If I change out the plugs, the CEL has a greatly reduced probability of turning on for several thousand miles. After some 10K miles, the CEL will start coming on again, and one or two of the spark plugs look in worse shape than the others when I remove them. The lower electrode tends to be worn prematurely and/or the gap has widened. Replacing the four plugs is a pain first time, as the air intake (up to the filter) has to be removed on the passenger side (three bolts and it lifts right out), and on the driver's side, the windshield washer reservoir has to be taken out. Once you have done this a couple times it is no longer a big deal. Plugs are cheap, about $10-$15 for a set of four, pre-gapped to 0.044". By changing plugs, I can easily pass an emissions test as the CEL will be off. In addition, as Subarus are AWD vehicles, the smog test centers only do a two-speed idle test which probably puts less demand on the catalytic converter. So in my case, the CEL and P0420 code seem to be arising from simple misfiring that results from plug fouling. This is not likely to be unique to me; it is a safe guess that changing the spark plugs out regularly may be all that some people need to do to keep their CEL off for some time.

I worry that the dealerships use the CEL light issue, added to the owner's fears and ignorance, to sell unnecessary replacement O2 sensors, catalytic converters and the like. I highly recommend investing in a code reader and learning how to do some simple repairs like changing the air filter, spark plugs and wires.

13. I've never heard the piston slap issue. I had an old Honda Civic (a 1976 with a 1980 engine) whose engine I rebuilt. Unbeknownst to me at the time, it had worn cylinders, and when the new piston rings seated it experienced a horrible piston slap that stayed even after the engine was warmed up. (So I know what to listen for, and my Subaru hasn't done it yet.)

14. For some reason the 'brake' light (not the 'ABS' light) has been staying on occasionally even if the handbrake is not pulled up. I think the switch in the handbrake itself is sticking. I plan to wait until it stays on permanently, then it'll be easier to diagnose.

15. I got a locking gas cap. There is apparently no mechanism to stop someone from siphoning the gas through the filler. With gas expected to go to $4 a gallon this is a worthwhile deterrent to consider.

We've got a 1999 Forester L. It's got 111K on it. Since 80K we have replaced:

Front axles

Head gasket

Left rear wheel bearing

Left rear drive axle

Passenger door handle

Front and rear wiper boxes

Knock sensor

O2 sensor

(and the CEL came on again today, so probably the catalytic converter now)

Clock stopped working 30K ago!

Clutch (we had the dreaded clutch shudder from the beginning but Subaru claimed this was normal.)

Im sure I'm missing something. Anyone want to buy it--almost completely new! Never will buy a Subaru again!

Subaru must be in a fantasy and to think that the 2001 Forester is not flawed. I have replaced two catalytic covertors, some leaky gaskets, and a clock. My sister has a Ford. When you replace a Ford part its gaurenteed a lifetime wakeup Subaru or everyone will be drivign a Ford and not a Forester.

Bought a 2001 Forester 6 months ago for my wife to drive. We live in Ontario and were attracted by the AWD and the apparent good reputation of Subaru products. The vehicle had 101,000 kms on it when purchased. Since then I have had to replace the head gasket ($1200), the rear wheel bearing ($400) and 2 days ago I had to replace the O2 sensor ($375). Not 24 hours off the lot the infamous check engine light came on again. I have a 1996 Toyota Camry with 310,000 kms that is running just fine. Before that I had a 2000 Camry that went to 395,000 kms and 14 years before we parted ways. I now plan to get the check engine light turned off and then dump this pile of junk for another Camry.

We bought a 2001 Subaru Forester brand new. It now has roughly 140,000 miles on it. We've had almost every problem mentioned in this list; CV joint passenger side, head gasket leakage (causing overheating), too many wheel bearings to keep track of (although when they were replaced with Legacy bearings the trouble seems to have ceased), and the check engine light has been on forever and ever.

We would trade it in for another vehicle except for the fact that:

1. It's paid for

2. It's very good in the snow

3. In the summer time we get around 30 mpg

Now, we're in a quandary because to pass safety inspection, the check engine light problem must be fixed. The last time we had the Subaru people reset it, the guide asked us how the car was behaving. When we said, "fine", he said then don't worry about the check engine light. Unfortunately, that won't help with the current state inspection. I would like to get 200,000 miles. Has anyone every successfully solved the "check-engine" problem (other than disconnecting the wire to the light)?

The catalytic converter and wheel bearing problems do not seem unique to Foresters. I owned a 1993 Subaru Impreza wagon that made it to 220,000 with no major problems and decided to stick with another Subaru. I replaced it with a 2002 Subaru Impreza Outback wagon and the catalytic converter went bad at 74,000 miles. Thank goodness it was still under warranty at the time so I did not incur any charges. Now at 152,000 (and in the same week) the infamous PO420 check engine code came on and the rear passenger wheel bearing went bad. I had the wheel bearing replaced at the Subaru dealer for a cost of $500, but they wanted $1700 for a new catalytic converter and oxygen sensors. They charged me $189 (a rip-off) to tell me it was the PO420 code… I already knew that from AutoZone’s free service. A car should not require a new catalytic converter every 70,000 to 80,000 miles. I’m going to try to replace the converter and sensors myself for a cost of about $500. I agree that Subaru may be relying on their name rather than their product. I will consider other brands for my next vehicle.

I own a 2003 Subaru Forester. I bought it 2 years ago with 40,000 miles on it.

Now 2 years later at 77,000 miles, it started with a coolant leak that looked like it was coming from the head gasket. My husband put some stop leak in, but it started to overheat. We replaced the head gaskets, and noticed that the water pump was leaking; replaced that, and also the thermostat and timing belt. Put everything back together, and my husband, who is a mechanic, started the car up, drove it a short distance, and it starting overheating again.

Now we are thinking it's the radiator. My husband is going to do a test on that first. I have read so many other posts from other people having the same problems, but no one says what they did to fix it. I just want it fixed, and to get rid of this car.I have had a lot of cars, and never had this much trouble or expense with them.

I own a 2000 Subaru Forester and have experienced MANY of the problems the previous writers have mentioned. I even put a new engine in it 3 years ago when the car sprung an oil leak for no apparent reason... and might I add that while the check engine light rarely goes off, the oil light never once came on after the car dumped all of the oil out!!

The service guys at Subaru, who I know very well now, claim that all of the "quirks" have been worked out of the Foresters now, but I am trading in the beast for a Honda, and will NEVER own a Subaru again! What a piece of crap.

2001 Subaru Forester purchased with 159,000 miles. It had been traded in at the Subaru dealer with blown head gaskets. Clock was not working. I purchased it after a local dealer purchased it and had the head gaskets replaced for $1,200. To pass state inspection he also had to replace a CV boot, the windshield, and left rear bearing. The two rear tires had to be replaced. Once he did all that I paid him $4,500. It's an S model with the panoramic sunroof. If I get a year out of it I will be happy. The car handles and drives pretty much like new. The car had a service history at the local Subaru dealer and all the maintenance was up to date. I put 3,000 miles on it this month and I'm happy. I had a Subaru Outback wagon previously and I drove it 24,000 miles in one year and sold it for what I paid. I had the clock re soldered for $26.50. Other than that I didn't expect much for what I paid, but it was clean and looked good inside and out. When I hit 200,000 I will sell it to a local college student.

Bought a 2002 Forester L Automatic with 110k 3 months ago. Have put 10k on the vehicle, now has 120k.

Drives and handles great.

CEL has been on for entire 3 months, but I have completely ignored it - car runs fine, plugs look good, and get about 27 mpg on the highway, so don't see any need to go on a replace-a-sensor hunt.

Wife drove 25 miles on the freeway with the emergency brake pulled up, so took it in for a brake job. Rear drum brakes replaced, at least in part due to the 25 miles at highway speed with the emergency brake on. The pads and rotors on the front needed replacement too. Mechanic said front pads were not original, but rotors looked original, and were bad, so pads had been replaced before by previous owner; mechanic thought rotors were not turned on first replacement and/or pads not installed correctly, so now rotors and pads needed replacement.

Have one front strut with a leak, will replace the front struts soon before winter freezes the strut oil. One rear strut has some rust...could go bad sooner rather than later.

So far, not too bad for a 6 yr old used car with 120k: a couple of oil changes, a brake job, and one leaking strut and another strut a suspect - not too abnormal for a car of this age.

Have had similar issues at 120k with Camrys and Accords (excluding the CEL). I will continue to ignore the CEL unless engine starts running rough, etc. And I now have my ear tuned for wheel bearing grinding that's to this forum (have not heard an issue so far). It looks like many more 2001 posts here than 2002, so am hoping at least some of the bugs went away in 2002. Good luck out there.

We are the original owners of a 2000 S Forester, with 80,000 miles on almost all original equipment.

Because of issues with the AWD system, by spec all tires must be within 0.25" in circumference, or all need to be replaced. We've replaced 5 sets of tires (we are on Tire Rack's preferred customer list).

Our clock went out at 30,000 miles.

The rubber door seals began to leak at about 30,000 miles, and the wind noise in the cabin is bad enough that on long trips we use strips of painters tape to seal between the window and the door to stop the howl.

We had an O2 sensor replaced twice, once under a recall, at 11,000 miles, and again at our cost at 43,000 miles.

Passenger side CV boots needed replacement at 40,000 miles and again at 62,000 miles. (It seems the problem is the location of the boot, next to the hot catalytic converter.)

The clutch was replaced at 63,000 with non-OEM parts, and the stutter that everyone experiences with the OEM disappeared.

Brakes made it to 69,000 miles.

Clutch master cylinder pooped out at 70,000 miles.

The CEL lit-up at 75,000 miles and indicated a bad catalytic converter. Our local mechanic thought it was a false reading and reset it. The CEL went on again at 80,250 miles and we took it to the dealer, and were informed that the CC was indeed bad, and had we brought it in when the light went on the first time, it would have been replaced under warranty, but now we were out of warranty by 250 miles. We decided it was cheaper to ignore the CRL (we put a post-it note over the warning light with the message "don't worry be happy") and amazingly the light went off when we moved from Texas to California (diff in gas?).

Now the A/C clutch is seizing up. Whenever the A/C comes on, it makes a bang loud enough to scare pedestrians.

What else... Maybe it's from reading these posts, but I'm now beginning to hear a buzz in the rear wheel bearings.

The A/C cuts out every now and again. The A/C light on the push button went out at about 40,000 miles.

The DC accessory plug in the rear compartment is dead.

The seat heaters went out at about 20,000 miles.

Now the CEL is back on and we suspect it's the CC, and of course, this happened two days before our scheduled smog check. Since the last oil change it's beginning to burn oil (about a quart every 5000 miles).

The car is fun to drive; it's underpowered, but responsive. It carries a surprising amount of camping gear. That said, I will NEVER EVER buy another Subaru.

Have a 2000 Forester, bought in May 2005 with 110K miles on it. It now has over 169,000 miles.

Overall, love it and am happy with it. Drives great, especially in adverse weather conditions. Wouldn't take anything else to the ski slopes... have made it to my destination in nearly white-out conditions with road completely covered with snow. Bounced a deer off it once with no ill effects other than a crinkle in the driver's side front fender.

Still, have experienced the same annoying problems as everyone else on this forum.

Check engine light has gone on and off ever since I have had it. Always managed to get it inspected while the light was off... so far. This year it has been on continuously for the last 2-3 months. Hope it goes off by next May when I have to renew the tag. Thinking about investing in a scan tool. Sure would hate to have to replace an O2 sensor, let alone a catalytic converter.

Replaced the rear wheel bearings last March. Hope those will last a while now.

Clock just went out last week. Guess I'll have to try the soldering trick.

Do any of these problems get better if you trade up to a newer (2005-08) model? I would love to stick with a Forester when this one finally bites the dust. For now I'll try to keep this one going since I am broke after helping my wife buy a 2007 RAV4. :)

I think I can offer a couple of helpful comments.

Check out the Subaru Rewards Program. I got a platinum Subaru Chase MasterCard and all my charges earn me 3% credit up to $500 per year (which would be $16,667 in charges per year.) Every time my spending level reaches $3,3333 the credit equals $100 and they send me a $100 Subaru Buck! I charge everything I can (even car insurance) to get the max $500 per year. Then I can use these $100 Subaru Bucks to pay for parts, repair or service that end up costing me NOTHING! Call 1-877-665-9146 to apply. I've had this since Nov '02 and it's been great - BUT make sure you pay it off in full each month so you never have to pay the hefty 12% interest charge for purchases - and NEVER get cash advances which incur a 20% interest charge. These outrageous charges would negate the advantage.

I have an '02 Subaru Forester and I eventually figured out how to properly close the gas door so it stays shut and doesn't stick out. After you get gas and close it just hit the hinge side of the door with the heel of your right palm. That seems to "set" it in a little and it doesn't pop out.

The '02 Foresters are really '01s. My '02 shows a mfg date of 1'01. The factory was re-tooling for the new body '03s so they just ran a bunch of extra '01's in early '02 and called them '02s.

I've had many issues noted above but no-one has mentioned the wind noise caused by the mirrors, which has annoyed me from day 1. I know it's the mirrors because if I fold them in at highway speeds the noise disappears. Of course I did this just long enough to determine that it was indeed the mirrors that were causing the noise.

At 111,000 miles my clock has faded out. Thanks to those who pointed out how to fix this problem.

A rear bearing is noisy again (I had both replaced just 25,000 miles ago) so I'll demand a free replacement and make damn sure they use a Legacy bearing this time instead of using the "job security" one. The deceit at dealerships is truly shocking.

Bought a used '01 in '04 with 24,000 miles. I've had the head gasket problem at 88,000 miles -- changed the timing belt at the same time. Otherwise, just brakes and plugs and wires so far with 138,000 miles. Oh, and the clock doesn't work.

Haven't seen any comments on this forum about the rear folding seats -- both the pull things have broken off. Does anyone know a fix for this or another way to get the seats to fold down?