Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-62
I am in the market for a new truck for our business. We put on a lot more miles than most people and maintain our vehicles regularly with top-quality products. We NEED to rely on our vehicles, sometimes we are in areas where there is no cell coverage, little traffic, and life threatening conditions.
Our '89 Ford left us swearing to never buy another... our '92 Chevy wasn't bad... our '96 Dodge was a money pit... our '02 Dodge has us heading to court for fuel delivery issues. My experience with Dodge has left me bitter. So we are looking at Nissan or Toyota. Someone must build a decent truck... right?
So I was surprised to see all these braking issues. I wonder how something as important as braking ability could be left questionable? I mean aren't these trucks? Trucks are, (were?), for working. I've read comments from people who wonder about the driving style of those with brake issues, but I wonder about the engineer who was told to produce brakes within budget. Whether you are aggressive with your brakes or not, this should not happen on a truck. What happens when you have a load in the back and an animal, (or a child), runs in front of your vehicle? Do you passively modulate your brake pedal? Occasional hard braking shouldn't ruin your brakes, neither should spirited driving.
But for all the Toyota lovers... rejoice! Do a search on the Nissan Titan and check the brakes out. Seems you're not alone. Does anyone build a good, "real" truck?
I have a 2000 Tundra SR5 with 96K miles on it. At this point, I've got the brake shimmy and it is annoying, but the brakes still work. My Tundra is extremely reliable and other than the brakes and a wheel balance problem, it performs flawlessly. My plan to remedy my brake shimmy involves changing out the OEM rotors with after market, beefier rotors, changing the pads and replacing/adjusting the rear shoes. I've noticed my truck dips slightly when applying the brakes which would indicate the rear brakes aren't working to 100 percent capacity and that is probably due to just normal wear and tear on the shoes. I really like my Tundra and drive it and treat it like a truck and it just keeps begging for more. It's one tough truck.
The brakes on my 2001 Toyota 4x4 makes the truck a danger to drive. The brakes on this truck are a money pit. This truck is my 5th and last Toyota.
In 69 I told GM I would never buy another GM vehicle, and in 81 I told Ford the same thing. I hope to see Toyota losing money like Ford and GM are doing now.
I have over 90,000 miles on my original brakes on a Tacoma, and they do not need pads yet.
I purchased a 2002 Trunda new. At 130,000. miles the vehicle developed a heavy shimmy when brakes were applied. I replaced front rotors with after market and the problem persisted. I replaced rear drums and problem went away. I do not drive aggressive. I have replaced pads four times and shoes once. I never turned drums or rotors. I do all my work myself so labor is not an issue. Pads are are are easy to do. Besides oil changes, battery, brakes, oxygen sensor and timing belt the vehicle has not given me an ounce of trouble. My father who is not easily swayed, traded in his Ford 150 with 17,000. miles and bought a Trunda. He loves it. I would buy another when I need to. My 1989 Toyota had 200,000. miles on it.
I've got 80,000 on my Tacoma brake pads, and the mechanic said they still look almost new when I brought it in for inspection awhile back. At this rate, I'll be running on the original pads at 200,000!
All these brake problems are scary. What's even more scary is the fact that Toyota didn't even issue a recall. The consumer is left to find out himself that there is a TSB regarding the issue and were talking about a component that affects your safety!
But they sure are reliable.
I bought my 2000 Tundra used, and thought I was getting another great Toyota vehicle (I've owned an '01 Avalon with virtually no problems!). Alas, I have gone through several sets of front pads and had the rotors turned multiple times. I contacted the Dealer who said a retrofit with new rotors, calipers and lines would run about $2,000. Yikes! I can't afford this. Does anyone have advice for replacement parts that I can put on by myself? My back can't take this horrible rattling much longer. My faith in Toyota is also being shaken. e-mail me at kelleyolney@msn.com. Thanks for any help/advice.
I own a 2000 Tundra which I purchased in 2007. I have hauled enough pavers to do my driveway 1 skid at a time. (14 skids in all) The loaded skids weighed in at 3100 lbs each. I had to sign papers saying spring replacement (if needed) was to be paid by me. They did not need replaced. As far as the shimmy I purchased the (for lifetime) all wheel alignment from BIG 10 tires and that's all it takes. By the way the same engine and tranny are in all Tundras until 2008. Then they just got better w/more options. Japan had to put out a truck that would break into the truck market and stay there. THEY DID!!
We can send a man to the moon and back again, and yet we can't make a vehicle that outlasts the payment book. Keep giving your money to all the ripoff American car dealers; I work too hard for mine.
Our family has owned over 30 new domestic vehicles and three imports. I will DEFINITELY keep giving my money to the "ripoff American car dealers". Not one of our domestics has EVER required a major engine or transmission repair in several that made 200,000+ miles and one that made 300,000+ miles. These vehicles represent all of the Big Three. Our Buick has 277,000+ miles (no repairs), our Dodge went 240,000+ miles (no repairs), and our Ford made 325,000+ miles (a starter, muffler and catalytic converter). Only one of our imports even made 100,000 miles.
It is ridiculous to see American citizens attacking American industry in these reviews, especially when the American car makers are, and have been, making much more reliable vehicles for half a century. If you are so down on America, why not move to Japan, since you're sending your money there already?
Just hit 100,000 miles in my 2000 Tundra. I only had to feel the brake vibration once to decide to replace the rotors and pads with aftermarket parts. $600 paid once, problem solved. I don't understand why anyone would get the same crappy factory rotors put on over and over.
This truck still drives and looks like new. (DID I MENTION THAT I OWN A TILE BUSINESS) Heavy loads weekly. I've owned a Ford and a Chevy, this is the better truck, hands down. I'll never go back to these "American Trucks" (Most are made in Mexico or Canada now, My Tundra was built in Indiana)
12:59 I don't have to move to Japan, because luckily, they sell Toyota's here in the states. I'd have one sent over from Japan before I'd buy a Ford or Chevy, without a doubt, having already had the miserable experience of owning a couple of each already. Never again.
Your opinion about domestic reliability is incorrect. Toyota or Honda means reliability. Ford and Chevy mean disposable, cheaply made vehicles that see the garage way too often.
I know that there are fluke situations out there when a Ford might actually get over 200,000 without a major repair, but I have yet to see it, and it is a fluke when it happens.
However, EVERY Toyota I ever knew of that was kept long enough got AT LEAST that much mileage (usually a lot more) before needing anything at all outside of fluid/brake pad/belt/hose changes. Usually not even the belts or hoses. Just change the oil, put gas in it, and drive it for 300,000 miles.
27th Aug 2008: Your comment about Ford selling Canadian-built or Mexican-built pickup trucks in the U.S. is incorrect. All the Ford pickups for the U.S. and Canadian markets are assembled in the USA. F-150s come from Dearborn or Kansas City; the larger F-series trucks are built in Kentucky; and the Rangers are assembled in St. Paul, Minnesota.
943... no offense but I paid $60.00 to have my driveway delivered (E.P.Henry Coventry Pavers) 10 skids and got a Piggyback Fork to maneuver my pavers banded and wrapped.
Doing a driveway project is major and it's not even
worth doing this in a pickup. I hope you didn't carry all your base (crusher run and concrete sand) in the truck! Overloading is actually dangerous, and if you could not stop, let alone an overloaded ticket from the police can ruin your day.
I did a small project, a couple skids circle pallets back yard that I brought home one at a time in my new Silverado. Seems senseless to kill a truck when you can have it delivered banded and with a pickback fork to put it right on your lawn though.
I see overload situations all the time, but would not recommend anyone doing so domestic or import especially. Maybe in a trailer would be smarter if you insist.
There is a TSB out for the 2000 Tundra. Find a 2005+ Tundra in the junkyard and get the calipers and pads from it and upgrade your old ones. Search for 2000 tundra brake upgrade and you'll find some step-by step directions. It makes all the difference in the front end shake and braking distance. The original pads and calipers were undersized and caused overheating. I was able to fix mine for $120 and haven't looked back.
This truck is great for cruising and hauling. I have owned 2 other Toyotas (95 Tacoma and 89 Hilux) and a Chevy Silverado. All of these vehicles have had problems ranging from frame rust on Toyotas, and engine problems with Chevy. At least Toyota bought me out on the Tacoma.