Comments: 1-15, 16-25
Check Engine Light: cause misfiring of cylinders.
Overall I have been quite please with the Wolfsburg; however, I have had the Check Engine Light come on 6 times in the 13 months that I have owned it. All of the problems deal with the cylinders misfiring. First they replaced the coil packs, then they replaced all of the fuel injectors. They told me that I need to use premium fuel (93 octane), even though it clearly says on the fuel door 89 octane. The problems stopped during the summer and then they came back again as winter approached. Now the dealership tells me that the problem is due to the fact that American fuel is different than German fuel and that American fuel does not have reliable properties during radical temperature shifts. So, they replaced the ECM. One day after getting it back the Engine Light came on again. Same problem, of course, and now they need to replace all 4 coil packs again. This time, however, I have been waiting over a week to get the car back and the dealership says that there are four other cars waiting for the same thing. The only saving grace is that I am still under warranty and also the lemon law.
The dealership also replaced the window regulators, which was a recent recall item.
Like some of the reviews on this site, I have had two issues to which the dealership says are "normal" for the car. First, the car pulls to the left and the dealership shot back that this was due to the fact that the transmission is off center to the left so all Jettas will have the same problem. The second issue was a rumbling on the driver's side dash that occurs during acceleration. I was told that this was the turbo fan kicking in. Since I am not automobile mechanically inclined, I am forced to accept these explanations.
Does it really say use 89 octane on your wolfsburg fuel door?
I have 2001 wolfsburg (here in Canada) and manual and sticker on the door fuel both say you have to use fuel octane between 91-95.
That's why your engine light comes on! another think I heard that in winter the fuel tank dew build up or something lilke that is causing the problem.
I can't comment on the turbo noise, but blaming the placing of the transmission for the car pulling to the left is simply BS. Find a dealer who knows what they are talking about. You might also want to check the tire pressure, that's a common reason for a car pulling to one side.
-- Alex.
My 2001 Turbo is in the shop now. Engine light came on and the car was vibrating on acceleration. This is after two previous trips in for hesitation and rough idle. I've had the same issues with the pulling to the left and grinding noise as have others.
When I bought the car I was told while the manual said 92 octane that I should actually use 89 instead. So I did the 89. My sister has a Jetta, although not turbo. She was told to alternate octanes with each fill, 92 then 89. When I began to have hestitation problems I tried first alternating, then putting in 92 then 93. Things only got worse.
At the first repair visit I was told to use 93. So I did.
On the call to schedule my third trip in for the same problem and told I had to wait a week, I was asked what octane I was using, I forget which I was using at the time, but they told me to use a different octane. I don't think VW knows what the issue is here and we are their guinea pigs.
My now third visit I am told the car has a bad coil and that I have less than a week left on my warranty so if it's not fixed with this I'm basically you know what!
I too have a 2001 1.8 Jetta Turbo and am experiencing many problems. For the first year things were great! However, at it's anniversary, things quickly went down hill.
First my air conditioner started acting up. It shot out air, but it wasn't cold (this was very uncomfortable in the dead of summer). Took it to the shop and got it back, but still had the same problem. Took it back a second time, and THREE weeks later I got my car back with the problem corrected. During my car's three week stay, the mechanics replaced numerous parts, one of which was the ECM. It basically seemed like they randomly replaced parts until the air conditioner started working again.
Finally my air was working, but unfortunately a new problem came into play. When I started the car, it stumbled and sounded like it was going to shut off. My check engine light also started coming on and off sporatically. Took the car to the dealer again and they replaced the coils. Got car back and still experienced the same problems. Took car into dealer and this time they replaced the ECM again. Car seemed to be fixed, but after about three weeks, my check engine light came on and it started the rough starts and stumbling again. Like previous times, took car to dealer and they said they got new coils from a different manufacturer and yet again replaced my coils. During this visit, I asked them to go ahead and do my 20,000 mile service. In the process of this, they told me that they noticed a problem with my harness and they needed to replace my ECM AGAIN and repair some wiring in the harness unit!!!
Now my car is currently in the shop because the parts they need are never in and are always back ordered. I was to get my car today after a week without it, but... I got a message that now there is a loud rumbling coming from the back and they need to keep it longer.
This is my first brand new car, and my first Volkswagen. My experience has been extremely aggravating and I can't wait to get rid of this car. Even if they fix it this time around, I don't want it. I'm seriously considering pursuing Lemon Law procedures.
In June of 2001 I bought a 2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg. I was very pleased with my car till about 2 months ago, as soon as my car went out of the 24K warranty, my car has been in the shop 5 times today. My problem is there is a hesitation during accelerating. You can really feel it going up steep hills, or a quick take off. But at times it does not matter, just stepping on the gas and you will feel the jerking. The first time I took my car in the shop. They replaced my ECM. They told me this would fix the problem. Wrong, I call the next day and told them the problems still exist. The dealership told me that I needed to drive the car for about 200 miles, the ECM need to get use to my driving habits. OK, so I did, in result the jerk only got worse. Then a week later took the car in again, my check engine light was on. They check all of that, will they told me that a valve need to be replaced, and that should fix my problem. That set me back 168.93. My problem was fixed. Wrong again, as soon as I got in the car, I had the jerking again. So I called them the next day. They had the car all day, and called me told me they had no idea what was wrong, and they had call the VW help line for suggestions. VW told them they would send some tester they wanted them to try. They would call me once it was in, I should be OK to drive my car. About 3 to 4 weeks later, I called the dealership and took my car in. They replaced the Boost sensor. Called me and told me they found the problem. I was so happy, and it was covered by VW, I was even happier. Went to pick up my car, to find out there was still a hesitation during accelerating. The jerking I keep talking about. The dealership told me it was not as bad as it had been. Took the car home and it was just as bad. OK, so now today it is in the shop again, being looked at. I have a customer care log going with VW, and they're calling the dealership to make sure they're using all their resources. OK!!! Will I know I not happy at all with VW, this car just now have 30K on it, but this problem started with about 26 K. The only thing I had to pay for was the one part that cost 168.93. That would be fine if they fixed the problem. I am looking into the Tennessee Lemon law. I see that in some other comments people talk about the grade gas they use, I have always used the middle grade, and I'm now using the highest grade. So I don't see that being my problem.
But for my last comment a wise man once told me (the shuttle bus driver for the dealership, I have gotten to know him good) there is a difference between a technician and a mechanic, a technician will keep replacing parts till he finds the right one. A mechanic will fix the problem.
Everyone with a surging problem, have the dealership check the turbo diverter valve (DV) for boost leakage.
I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8T Wolfsburg. I'll tell you guys untill I read this article I thought it was the best Jetta Volkswagon has ever made. However, you guys have through your enlightenment changed that perspective. My check engine light is on and I am told it's the mass air flow sensor. I am due to change that on this Friday and I will keep you guys posted on that one. I also have noticed a delay when accelerating in about 2 seconds or so and then the car feels like it going to take off the ground. I have been advised to change the diverter valve for boost leakage as well. The car has 80,000 miles and I think it's time to consider a trade in.
My wife purchased a 2001 18t wolfsburg jetta and we've had the coil problems, the brake light problems and various hesitation issues.
The problem first occurred under warranty and it was coil related. VW then replaced only a single coil! We've since had two failures and have had to pay since the warranty has expired.
My problem is with VW more than the car. I recommend that people think seriously before purchasing a 1.8t VW.
Although I wouldn't wish all these repair stories on anyone, it's nice to know I'm not alone.
The check engine light remains a problem on my '01 Wolfsburg Jetta. First they claim it's mass airflow sensor, then it's the boost sensor, now it's the catalytic converter, etc. I'm afraid of what will come up next as it is nearing the need for a timing belt and I have just been told that it "looks fine" so they don't see the need to replace it yet and technically it's not due to be replaced until the 100K mark.
I've kept premium octane in it since I bought it new, had the scheduled oil changes and maintenance done, etc. and the additional repairs have been costly. I see a trade-in, for something other than a VW, in my near future too.
I've had a 2001 Volkswagen Jetta Wolsburg for about a year now and haven't had any problems with it until now. The check engine light came on so I took it to the dealership. All they did was plug it up to the computer, read me the problem (something to do with the air injection sysem) and the light went off so they didn't fix it. Luckily it hasn't come back on and I haven't had any problems... with that.
I was on my way home from vacation, gearing up to third and my clutch started making a horrible noise. I pulled off the road, put it into first, went to take off and the car wouldn't go. I had it towed back home and found out the throwout bearing was done. The dealership told me my best bet would be to get a whole new clutch. I have been trying to figure out what the drive-train warranty is on my car and can't seem to get an answer. It's gonna cost me $900 otherwise. My car has 50,000 miles on it so I have a feeling I'm screwed!!! I think my next car will be a Honda.
I purchased a 2001 Jetta 1.8T brand new. I thought this would be the greatest car ever. I couldn't have been more wrong. I have experienced many of the same problems mentioned on this site over the past six years. Last week, I received a call from my private mechanic that I decided to use instead of the dealers. He asked me to sit down... he told me the Jetta's days are over. The engine mounts failed, the engine sheared off the bolt and cracked the engine block. The best thing at this point would be to replace the entire engine.
The really great part... I called the dealer where I purchased the car and explained what I had discovered. They actually told me the engine mounts are designed to wear out and this is a fairly common occurrence. It is common the the engine to shear off it's mounts and crack the block? Yes.
I want to warn everyone with a 2001 Jetta to have your engine mounts checked. I was lucky to discover this problem while backing out of my driveway. I can't imagine if this were to happen while travelling the highway at 70mph.
I just bought a 2001 1.8T Wolfsburg in the last couple of months. It is a one owner car, and was serviced at the dealership all five years of it's life. I have although noticed the hesitation problem mentioned above, but it's definitely not as serious though. luckily I have a 4 year 48000 miles warranty on it and that will protect my new baby for a while.
Don't listen to the dealers about the wolfsburg all they will do is lie to you I have been around vw all my life I have had a wolfsburg completely apart there are a few problems tho I understand that, but instead of the dealer screwin you as in the coil packs needing replaced which vw hasn't came out with a oem coil pack that works... vist www.ecstuning.com cheapest and all there parts a oem+
Aside from a couple small problems here and there, I am absolutely in love with my 01 1.8T. It seems that most of you have been given the run-around by the dealership. It's definitely unfortunate to hear, as I've put in my own time working as a technician in dealerships and know the games that are played. However, it seems that the poor customer service and hack-job mechanics have given many of you a less favorable experience than necessary. First, I'd like to clear up maybe some confusion with octane rating. A fuels octane reflects it's resistance to "detonation"- or uneven burning. The higher the octane, the less likely the fuel to knock or combust unevenly. While most cars are designed to run on middle to low grade octane, it is rare and infrequent that a car experiences any detrimental effects from use of a higher grade octane. With that in mind, the ECM that many of you have had replaced is designed for mid to upper grade fuels, due to the turbocharger. This computer expects the engine to react a certain way under various conditions with respects to the designated octane rating suggested for the car. In short, keep it at 89 at the lowest, and other than poor quality from shady gas stations, octane can more or less be eliminated from problem list.
Second- (and do not confuse this with an actual problem with the vehicle) but I assume that a vast majority of you experience "turbo-lag" or "spool time". As you may or may not know, a turbocharger is an exhaust driven turbine, which has a shaft connected to a second propeller that forces fresh air into the engine. While accelerating, the turbo needs to first get up to speed to produce "boost" or the pressurized air that results from the spinning intake propeller, to create the peppiness associated with turbo'd cars. This initial one to three second delay in rapid acceleration is normal. If it is really that inconvenient, I suggest looking into an aftermarket computer upgrade that will increase the cars performance.
Third- and this is not mean to single out anybody in particular, nor is it a personal attack- but engine mounts are not designed to wear to the point of failure and shearing through any bolts. This is either a miscommunication or a misunderstanding. Engine mounts will wear over time, and will produce excessive vibration and engine related movement. That being said, if an engine mount is *worn to the point of extreme failure, it is the result of a grossly incompetent mechanic or licensed inspector. Poor maintenance is to blame here.
*if the engine mount was not excessively worn, there is a strong chance it failed prematurely due to negligence of a technician during engine repair. On the 1.8t motors, the mounts are somewhat tricky to work with/ around, and often are not tightened and checked to specifications by irresponsible mechanics.
I do not work for Volkswagen, and am not affiliated with the company. Simply put, I am an enthusiast and a certified mechanic, and aim to help those that are uneducated in the field become more well prepared to discuss and interpret their own cars. Be very wary when bringing your vehicles anywhere to have work performed. I'm nauseated by how many scheisters there are out there. Good luck- thanks for reading.
Hi everyone. I have a 2001 Passat with turbo issues. It do not hear or feel the turbo in first gear and not a big acceleration in all other gears. Any suggestions? Kevin.