Tire pressure monitor malfunctioned when new OEM VW 16" Aluminum Wheels were installed to replace the steel wheels that came on the car - fixed by dealer with no charge.
Maintenance Interval Light set improperly by dealer service department (at 5000 mile intervals instead of 10,000 mile interval after the 1st 10,000 miles...). A shady practice to get people who don't bother reading the owner's manual to take car in for unnecessary oil changes and other dealer services they don't need. VW should crack down on dealer service departments being dishonest like this.
Engine has lots of power for the price (paid just $16,000 for it new). 170hp 2.5L 5cyl for'08 is noticeably more powerful above 4000 RPM than the '07 150hp 2.5L (test drove a used '07 Rabbit back to back).
5 cylinder motor also has excellent torque anywhere from 1700-5000 rpm - power band feels more like a good V6 than like the 4 cylinders in competitor's cars.
Manual transmission shifter works very well - a huge improvement over past VW's and their floppy, imprecise shift linkages.
Body/structure is still as rock-solid @ 15,000 miles as when new. Feels like a much more expensive car structurally. No squeaks or rattles to be found.
Fuel economy was borderline poor for the 1st 12,000 miles (averaged about 24mpg per tank in city/hwy mixed driving). Fuel economy has improved significantly over last 3,000 miles (up to almost 30mpg per tank in same driving situations). Motor finally broken-in...?
Interior isn't going to be confused with a Mercedes in terms of quality of materials, but it seemed to be of higher quality than other competitor cars driven (like Honda Civic, Mazda 3, Hyundai Accent, Toyota Yaris, Honda Fit).
iPod interface built into stereo works, but is not great - limited access to multiple playlists and sometimes has a "mind of its own", and plays things you don't want etc. OEM stereo itself is high quality considering the price of the car otherwise though...
Did I mention this car was only $16,000 almost fully equipped? It's a VERY nice car for the money.
I've heard the chain tensioner valve sticking when oil isn't changed frequently, you might consider changing it at 5-6k miles instead of 10k. Driving condition and fuel quality (very crap here in US) could make the suggested 10k seem a bit over confident.
Yeah I think 5k is about right for oil changes. That's what I stick to with my Hyundai and I don't even have the same concern with the chain tensioner.
Carl’s comment – what on earth - is a chain tensioner valve? And what noise does it make – when it sticks?
I've owned 10 Volkswagens since 1972, 8 were equipped with manual transmissions - I've never had one that had a floppy, imprecise shift linkage.
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