Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60
2001 Volvo S40 with 90K miles. I just bought this car. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator @ the engine for $150. I also upgraded the software because the check engine light reported an oxygen sensor problem for $150. The clock resets to 12 whenever I restart the car, but I am not sure why. I also have to replace the rear engine seal on the transmission because I have an oil leak.
I can understand your frustration. I once owned a (at the time) relatively new '92 Plymouth Acclaim. They were known for having horrible paint jobs that peeled prematurely. Mine was no exception. By the time the car hit 5yrs. old the paint was fading badly and peeling on the A-pillar of the front doors and front lip of the hood. You could literally flick off 1in. x 1in. flecks of paint it was so bad. Thankfully by the grace of God, while parked in my driveway the first winter of ownership, large icicles fell off my roof onto the car damaging the hood and roof of the car. My insurance paid to have those surfaces fixed and repainted. The new paint looked as good as new and held up extremely well. Ironically, that was a very dependable car and definitely the best I've owned yet. Ahhh...memories!
I own a 2001 Volvo S40 and my Check Engine Light has been on now for a year. It failed the emissions test last month and I was told it needed an Oxygen Sensor and Temperature Gauge. The dealer reset the light and 1 month later, the light is shining once again. Now, they are telling me there is something wrong with the Turbo, yet can't quite pin-point what it is. They are trying a "fix" of 300$ and told me if it doesn't work, I will need to replace the Turbo (1500$).
I have read all of your comments and this is clearly a common problem!! The car is no longer under warranty and I am sick of sinking money into this Lemon. Does anyone know if I have any rights against Volvo, or do we just have to suck it up and pay?!! Please Help!
I just want to confirm many of complaints I have read on this column. I own a '01 S40 with 46K miles.
A. Bad paint (blisters size of a quarter)
b. Brake pads shot at 23k.
C. Spark plug/coil (2 sets) shot at 30k.
D. Turbo oil leak at 22k.
E. The famous "Check Engine" has been on for the last 20k
(O2 sensor, but declined repair due to high cost).
F. Interior rear view mirror fell off.
G. Currently having engine hesitation and going dead by
itself.
Well, I found this forum while doing a google search for "check engine light '01 Volvo S40" and I have to say, there is a real problem with these cars. Mine is exactly like most of those here: CE light on - change BOTH O2 sensors (of course one at a time at approx $300 parts and labor each), then light came back on with in 5 days. I bring it back and they tell me its the coolant temp sensor - another $230 to replace that. Now 10 days later the CE light is on AGAIN!!! This SUCKS!! Now I see why there are so many complaints - each person has to replace multiple sensors, turbo, turbo seals, ect. and the light still keeps coming on?? Has anyone had any success getting rid of this light once it comes on or do we have to sell the car to keep from having to pay every two weeks to have it fixed?
To the last comment - take your car somewhere that can diagnose the problem properly. My V40 is on 90k and never had a warning light come on! Great vehicle.
I own a 2001 s40 that has 180.000 km and never had a single problem with it, maybe you are using the wrong mechanic or maybe you don't know how to drive/mantain it properly. Is a good car for sure better than japanese cars.
Uh huh...here's my advice to anyone who has not yet purchased a Volvo - DON'T.
My 2001 S40 is in the shop for the second time in two weeks. Here's the rundown of only the MAJOR issues over the past three years:
- replace front and back brakes
- multiple software downloads
- Windshield wiper fell off...twice
- check engine light is almost always on
- O2 sensor replaced...twice
- New transmission at 85K miles
- New right axle
- New pressure ring around left axle after it failed and axle fell of while driving down the freeway
- New ignition coil
- New water pump
- New electronic starter module
- New electronic transmission control module
NOW it's in for a new electronic throttle control module.
I have wanted to sell this car for the last year, but I can't keep it running long enough to get it done. I've put almost $6000 into it since Feb of 07.
Absolutely the worst car I have ever owned.
Wow! I have a 2001 and it wouldn't even dare give me a problem! It has been faultless at nearly 100,000 miles - just a few bulbs and the usual wear and tear. I have other Volvo's within the family and ALL prove exceptionally reliable vehicles and give no problems. I fully recommend the S/V40!
We bought a used 2001 Volvo S40 2 years ago. We have already replaced the catalytic converter at 83,000 miles. We have replaced the O2 sensors, and the check engine light is on all of the time!! We bought Volvo because of their good reputation. Never again! Our newest problem is that the windows, cig lighter and mirrors don't work. They blow a fuse everytime you use them. The dealer charged us $187.00 to diagnose the problem to no avail. Then they wanted to charge us another $450 to continue their Diagnostics. Isn't that what the $187 was for. I would not recommend this car and I wish so bad that we had seen this site prior to our purchase. Live and learn and buy VW!!!
We own 2 S40's 2001. Both cars replaced the catalytic converter at 112,000 miles. One car has had 2 co2 sensors replaced and still has check engine light problems. We were now told that the car has 2 catalytic converters. Has anyone ever heard of these cars having 2 catalytic converters? (btw the other car was just fine after replacing the first catalytic converter)...
You must bear in mind that Volvo is historically been at the forefront when it comes to the environment and therefore it is no surprise to me that the car may have 2 cat's. Here in the UK though, cat/exhaust failure is rare on the S40 and V40 - they appear to be over engineered. My 2001 V40 gives me complete piece of mind. A very good vehicle (as is my S70)
There seem to be a lot of people with Check Engine light problems. I offer the suggestion that my dealer gave to me. Change your brand of gasoline and make sure to always use top-grade. Some are better than others. I was skeptical, but the light went off upon starting the car with a different brand of gas. I've always used high-test (93), but there are only two brands that don't make the light come on.
Status report on my Volvo S40 with 77,000 miles. My problem list closely matches a previous post:
- Interior cabin fan got stuck on high setting for several days and then completely stopped.
- Volvo factory stereo is shot. Only 2 of 6 speakers work.
- Red paint looks awful. Oxidation is severe.
- 1 wheel cap fell off.
- Dashboard rattles unbearably.
- Rust forming on underside of hood front edge seams and at right front quarter panel behind wheelwell.
- Key removal an issue due to shift lever sensor issue.
- Catalytic converter broke from exhaust.
- Never ending check engine light illumination.
Will dump this lemon in next 10,000 miles before tranny goes. This is my fourth and last Volvo. Other Volvo's included two 240 wagons and a 960 wagon.
As with the others, I will never buy another Volvo. My 2001 Volvo S-40 that I bought new runs well, but in the first and 2nd year that I had it I had to replace the radio, cruise control and had steering column problems that needed fixing. Luckily then it was under warranty.
As with many of you others, my check engine light keeps coming on now. Original plans are to keep a car until at least 100,000 miles. I have 71,000. Don't think I'll make it.
I just replaced the thermostat; now the gas gauge isn't registering, the heater/air conditioning system isn't working properly. The gas regulator (float I guess) isn't working). Back in the shop again.
I had an Accura Integra before this for 9 years, with no problems and loved that car.
I'll probably go back to a Honda, but never again to a Volvo.
Columbus, Ohio.