Electronic Throttle Module died at 120,000mi, cost of $1250.including towing fee.
Door lock repaired approx 90,000mi.
The cover on console between front seats peeled off.
Comfortable and good looking car. Service and repairs are more expensive than for cars previously owned, if taken to dealership. Can save some on service by using a good independent repair shop. No major problems other than electronic throttle module failure which was expected because I had researched and learned that this is a common problem with this model.
I am currently replacing the Electronic Throttle Module at 62000 miles at a cost of $850 plus tax. Towing $80. 2000 Volvo S80 2.9.
Replaced the electronic throttle module and a brake vacuum booster at 66,750 miles for $1,617. Did not have it towed since the car started the next day and I was barely able to drive it to the dealer three miles away.
Every where I read on the Internet, the 2000 Volvo S80 is getting a bad rap. I'm here to tell you that I own two 2000 Volvo S80--one turbo, the other non-turbo. I've owned the non-turbo since Dec 2000 (brand new) and only had two problems: one was the throttle body and the other was the CD player. In both cases, Bob Penkhus Volvo in Colorado Springs fixed (under warranty) the problems. I've had nothing, but pure driving pleasure ever since (I mean no problems whatsoever). I purchased the S-80 Turbo in Jan 2005 off E-bay. Got a terrific deal. The car had 75,000 miles. To date, I've put over 20,000 miles (highway and city). Again, nothing, but pleasurable driving experience. My two S80s are the two most comfortable cars I've ever driven. Oh, yeah, the S80 Turbo have not cost me dime in untimely repairs. I did get both vehicles serviced at 90,000 (turbo) and 30,000 miles (non-turbo; I now have 45,000 miles). The non-turbo cost me $480.00 and the turbo cost me $600.00. I do take my cars to an independent Volvo specialist). Of course, I only put in the best motor oil (synthetic, any brand). Ladies and gentle, oil is oil. I use WalMart brand synthetic (it's rated for Corvettes and Dodge Vipers) As long as it's approved by the government (American Petroleum Institute). One other thing that has kept me safe is that I purchased extended warranties. It's money well spent. I recommend everyone else do the same and, by the way, read the warranty agreement closely. You might pay for something you think is covered, but it's not. What I'm saying is that the 2000 Volvo S80 isn't all bad. I will keep mine until they fall apart or give the to my children. They're both seven years old and I believe I'll get another 11 to 15 years or 1,000,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
Currently own a 2000 S80 T6 with 110,000 miles. Throttle body is a joke I have gone thru 2. Doors locks are an issue as is sunroof. When the Volvo was not a Ford they were much more reliable. Dealerships are too expensive- example struts for keeping hood open- both are bad- $116.00 each (simple air strut should be around $30-$40 and 1 hour minimum labor (At $106.00 per hour) per strut. This would come out to $444 to keep the hood open. Keep a $8.00 vise grip on strut and save $436.00. Reliablity is not what it used to be with this car. Also have fit and finish issues.Now need main seal, timing belts and more. Never had this much go wrong with other Volvo models. I have 3 go over 160,000 miles without major repairs
I have owned an 2000 S80 for Three (3) yr's now and have almost put in more money in repairs than what I paid for the car. Throttle Body, O2 sensors & the computer which controls the STC/ABS has gone out event though there is nothing wrong with the STC or Braking system. That's another $800 part plus labor. When does the bleeding stop? What year's are the good years? I do love the ride and safety factor.