1986 Holden Calais VL from Australia and New Zealand - Comments

Radiator/water pump replaced after overheating problems.

Crank angle sensor replaced after a hard start problem. Eventually this led to a no start problem.

Reconditioned auto fitted ($2000 and that's not including the $500 labour charge!)

Centre bearing replaced.

Alternator/regulator replaced.

The VL Commodore is a great car providing you take the time and money to maintain the vehicle. From experience, I have found that parts and overhauls are not cheap.

The particular area of concern is the cooling system - make sure you install a heavy duty 3 core radiator (your temp gauge will never go above half again!) Also, follow the specified filling procedure to avoid air-locks in the radiator which will eventually lead to expensive cracks in the head gasket.

Whilst my problems are not unusual for this car (and the Nissan Skyline) they should not have occurred at such low mileage (well maintained VLs have been known to travel anything up to 300,000kms without any major engine work). Quite simply, the previous owner failed to maintain the car. Therefore if you plan to buy a VL Commodore, check for a service history...

I have a VL calais and it has done 108756 km, I have not had any problems yet. Personally I think they are the best cars ever built. Yes, even better than Ferrari.

After being interested in the VL Commodore and Nissan Skyline with the RB30 engine for many years, I would make the following comments:

1. The crank angle sensor is definitely a known problem, however never a predictable problem. My Skyline with 276000 kilometers on it has had no crank sensor problems.

2. The biggest thing that will kill these engines is bad maintenance of the cooling system. It is worth the money to have it serviced frequently, and if this is done, it will probably be the most reliable car you could own.

Finally, these engines with age and kilometers begin to tap, ie. the hydraulic lifters get noisy. Sometimes oil additives can help, but they are damn expensive to replace (the engine has 12 of them) - CW.

Crank angle sensor failure on these engines is not due to poor quality or design. Most failed sensors I've replaced have been accompanied by a water mark in the distributor body, indicating that water has entered and not been able to escape. If you degrease your RB30 engine you should seal the distributor with a plastic bag or take the cap off when you've finished and dry out the distributor.

Cooling system failure due to lack of corrosion inhibitor is a major problem. People who poorly maintain their vehical in this area will pay dearly if engine overheats. Usual a server overheat will leave a nasty crack in the top of the head under the cam shaft which will require extensive welding to repair. Welding an alloy head puts extream heat into the construction and will cause the head to warp. It will then require heat straightening and possibly tunnel boring. Then you can start to carry out the normal parts of the head service!.Radiators on the VL have the top and bottom hoses connected to the same tank on the raditor. There is a plate in the tank the separates the top from the bottom and causes the water to flow across the raditor and then back again. This plate can come loose and fall to the bottom causing the cooling water to circulate in the same tank. The water is not cooled and the engine will overheat. The Skyline on the other hand has a conventional style radiator with the top hose going to the top tank and the bottom hose to the bottom tank.It's also larger in coolant capacity and is higher than the level of the cylinder head. This makes for a much more reliable cooling system.

The sad thing about the RB30E engine is that it's fitted to a vehical that is basicly a VB Commodore with some cosmetic work to pretty it up. The brakes and suspention really wheren't up to the task and the handling characteristics, combined with the added power of the engine could be quiet a handful for inexperienced drivers, especially on a wet road.

I will vouch for the comments made regarding poor maintenance leading to big dollars for 2nd hand VL owners. Unfortunately the supply of one-owner VLs driven by retirees at the rate of 5000km per year has dried up. All of these cars have been purchased by young first-car buyers who either write the car off or thrash the hell out of it before upgrading to VN/VP/VR's which have depreciated a lot more quickly than the VL did.

My 86 VL SL 5-speed is an unfortunate victim of poor maintenance and hence suffers from low oil-pressure, which in turn prevents the hydraulic lifters from being properly lubricated. To fix the problem (possible oil-pump replacement, as well as a set of new lifters - 12 @ $60 each) is bordering on not worth it, considering the market value of the car is probably $2500-3000.

Just a quick comment, I am a young driver (19), who finally after much searching came across a previous one owner 86 VL commodore 5 speed with manual transmission. Just wanted to say that all young drivers don't flog their cars, as an avid Holden supporter, I have great respect for my car, and keep it well maintained.

It's just too bad that the crank angle shaft sensor has just gone, around new year and no-one can touch it for a week. But I still love my baby.

Hi there, I own a VL LE 5 speed... brought it second hand 1 owner... i love my vl's even though I spent a lot on it...

So far I've replaced the angle sensor, water pump, radiator, fuel pump, head, exhaust and other minor bits...

But if you get the head re welded and fix,, the chances of it cracking again is very unlikely...

As for the angle sensor, always carry a spare one as it is known to be a common fault...

I myself have a VL Commodore which I have had very little trouble with since purchase. I bought it around 5 years ago when the motor had done 370,000+ but since then the clock has stopped working.

I have had a lot of luck with this beast as I have only had 1 tune up and 2 services since I got it (I know, I know, tsk tsk.)

I am now experiencing a slight problem in starting my baby as it seems to only want to go intermittently. After reading these comments I believe it may be the crank angle sensor also or power transistor, but it seems the angle sensors is a more common fault.

Diagnostics of sensor:

Crank Angle Sensor Supply Voltage :

Ensure the ignition switch is in the OFF mode. Disconnect the crank angle sensor harness at the ignition distributor.

With the multi meter set to read volts, connect the positive probe to the harness connector terminal number 2 (orange/black wire) and the negative probe to chassis ground. Switch the ignition key to ON mode. A voltage supply of 12 volts should be present.

If supply voltage is not present :

Check that supply voltage is present at pin 3 of the EFI power supply relay (relay connected). If supply voltage is present check the wiring harness between the EFI relay and the sensor connector for continuity. If no supply voltage is present check the EFI relay and harness wiring. If checking the supply voltage at the ECU, connect the meter positive probe to terminal 35 (orange/black wire) and the negative probe to terminal 36 (black wire) of the 16 pin connector.

Crank Angle Sensor Ground :

Ensure the ignition key is in the OFF mode. Disconnect the sensor harness connector at the ignition distributor. With the multi meter set to read ohms, connect the multi meter positive probe to the harness connector terminal number 1 (black wire) and the negative probe to engine ground. Continuity should exist between engine ground and terminal 1.

If continuity is not present :

Check the wiring harness and ground connection for faults.

Crank Angle Sensor 1 Degree Signal Test :

Ensure the ignition switch is in the OFF mode. Remove the fuel pump fuse (located in fuse box in engine bay). Ensure the distributor harness is connected to the distributor. With the multi meter set to volts, back probe terminal 3 (white wire) with the positive probe at the connector harness and connect the negative probe to engine ground. Turn the ignition key to the ON mode. The voltage measured should be 5 volts.

Turn the ignition key to CRANK mode. A voltage reading of 2 - 3 volts should be measured or if using an oscilloscope a 5 volt square wave form should be seen.

To measure the 1 degree signal at the Electronic Control Unit, connect the volt meter/oscilloscope positive probe to terminal 8 (white wire) of 20 pin connector and the negative probe to ground.

Crank Angle Sensor 120 Degree Signal Test :

Ensure the ignition switch is in the OFF mode. Remove the fuel pump fuse (located in fuse box in engine bay). Ensure the distributor harness is connected to the distributor. With the multi meter set to volts, back probe terminal 4 (yellow wire) with the positive probe at the connector harness and connect the negative probe to engine ground. Turn the ignition key to the ON mode. The voltage measured should be 5 volts.

Turn the ignition key to CRANK mode. A voltage reading of 0.2 - 0.5 volts should be measured or if using an oscilloscope a 5 volt square wave form containing the No 1 Cylinder reference signal and other cylinder reference signals should be seen.

To measure the 120 degree signal at the Electronic Control Unit, connect the volt meter/oscilloscope positive probe to terminal 17 (yellow/black wire) of 20 pin connector and the negative probe to ground.

Terminal 1 : GROUND (black wire)

Terminal 2 : SUPPLY VOLTAGE (orange/black wire)

Terminal 3 : 1 DEGREE SIGNAL (white wire)

Terminal 4 : 120 DEGREE SIGNAL (yellow wire)

As the owner of my second VL Calais I have a great deal respect for the car, as a matter of fact I learnt to drive on one.

I have replaced the Crank angle sensor on my current vehicle and the water pump on both, I have always thought of this as a common problem or maybe its just bad luck.

One point I wish to make is the lack of theft security on these cars. My first car had one owner and was near immaculate, I left it as the general made it and it was taken in broad daylight with apparent ease (I got the shell back).

My current car has three point immobilisation and has already survived one attempt. For your own sake look after your car.

I can only echo the comments above re security. My VL was taken from outside the house (second attempt). I had a basic alarm and additional kill switch. I did get the shell back, but at the time I could not afford to rebuild it. Living in a high theft area and not having a garage I didn't replace my baby. The VL was the best Commodore I've driven or had the privilege of owning.

Would you believe my Dad turned up with an '86 Skyline wagon for me (poor handling, but same VL power) about a year later. This engine has done over 200K, blows no smoke and is very smooth. I have to crank it for about 15 seconds longer in winter to start and when cold, I have to warm her up for about 2 minutes otherwise under hard acceleration the car starts to stall and sometimes backfires. Has anyone else experienced this?

The top radiator hose decided to dislodge itself from the top of the radiator yesterday about 3 minutes from home so I've just fixed this and refilled with coolant. Otherwise I have had no trouble from this reliable and fantastic engine.

VL 86 SL Sedan 5 spd Manual.

I bought this car when I was 21 (7 years ago now), still goes like a bat out of hell..

Doesn't use oil or blow smoke even after 480000 kms, rocker cover has never even been off the thing! Very reliable.

Advice to anyone getting one. Crank angle sensors can be a pain.

Most I have been in have diff slack.

Most importantly, make sure you are religious about the timing belt. Change it at least every 80,000 kms. If this goes, you WILL bend valves and be up for big bucks!!

Front windscreen seal is a bad design too, traps moisture and rusts.

Hey hey everyone. I'm 16 and is looking for a car. I found one I love and am thinking of buying it. It is a 1986 red auto VL Commodore. Not having a huge massive budget, but enough to get regulary serviced should I Buy it. It has extractors and has been lowered with king springs. I'm planning on putting on walkinshaw mags and an 3" exhaust, bodykit, set of fog lights, as well as tinting the windows. Befoere I buy the car I will get the raa to check it! if its in not too bad condition will it eat away my bank account or will it be a good first car.

Question 1

How much is a

crank sensor.

Question 2

How much is a radiator.

Question 3

Is and Auto VL better than a Manual.

Queston 4

Should I save up some more and get a calais.

Please reply

Thanks Pudgy.