No mechanical failures at all. The engine runs like new. The transmission shifts perfectly.
Electrical problems are prevalent throughout the car.
Wiring for engine harness degrades over time. If you buy a 240 built before 1988, be sure the harness has already been replaced.
The tailgate wiring becomes severed over time and renders all tailgate electronics (wiper, defrost, electric lock, license plate light) inoperable. Easy replacement if you know how to wire up simple electronics.
The ventilation blower motor failed long before I purchased the car and was not replaced. Replacing it myself required over 10 hours of labor on my part. It is strongly advised that you buy a car which has had this motor replaced.
The engine computer in 1983-1984 models is notorious for going bad and causing no start conditions. Buy a car in which the computer has been replaced already, or avoid this year altogether. A used working computer can be purchased at Ebay for $50. A new one from Volvo costs $900.
The driver' seat is badly worn, and bottom support springs as well as lumbar support were broken when purchased. Finding a seat in a junkyard would not be difficult and it takes literally less than 10 minutes to replace.
Aside from that, a very reliable car. I would not hesitate to buy another Volvo based on reliability alone.
The main reason I would not buy another non-turbo 240 (or any non-turbo Volvo for that matter) is performance.
The engine in this car, though remarkably reliable, is horribly overburdened with the task of hauling around a 3,100lb car. Acceleration borders on dangerously slow. This was a serious oversight on Volvo's part. Getting up to speed on any road near my home requires over ten seconds of full throttle acceleration. This is an accident waiting to happen on a busy day. If you are at all interested in even a respectable level of performance, do not buy this car.
Handling is biased heavily toward understeer. It is very difficult if not impossible to cause this car to spin under even flood conditions. This car's handling abilities are compromised by its ride-biased suspension tuning.
The ride quality of the car is excellent. It floats fairly smoothly over most roads, and doesn't jar much on bumps.
The brakes work astonishingly well. The four wheel discs do their job superbly. If it weren't for every other driving dynamic being so poor, hammering the brakes would make you think you're driving a race car.
Noise level inside the car is definitely not befitting of a company desiring a luxury car image. Engine noise can get to you at times. Dynomatting or adding insulation near the firewall takes care of most of this.
Comfort is very good in all seats. They are well designed and supportive, though offering no lateral support during corners whatsoever. The rear seat legroom is excellent. Passenger seating all around is spacious.
For the driver, a few missing amenities add up to aggravation over time. There are no cup holders in the car. The small storage areas in the center stack console are effectively useless. Anything left in the change tray will be on the floor within a day as it holds onto nothing. Lack of cruise control is a big minus. For a manual transmission-equipped car, a tachometer is sorely missed. Though the car has no effective power-band to exploit, a tach is still necessary in my book.
Fuel economy is fair. For a car this size it isn't bad, but I've seen cars with twice the horsepower that get better gas mileage. I get on average 20-23mpg in a 50/50 city/highway mix.
Overall, it's a good, reliable car with lots of cargo area, and it's slow as hell.
I agree with everything in this review. I have had every problem mentioned with both my 245's.
I have both a 1984 245 DL (91,000 miles) and a 1985 245 GL (149,000 miles) and have found that the cars are remarkably different even though they are only one model-year apart, hence, the higher mileage on the 1985!
The 1985 performs and handles significantly better than the 1984. This is most likely due to the engine modifications made to the 1985 model (B230F vs. B23F in the '84). Also, the 1985 has the smaller steering wheel and a different steering rack.
In 1996, I complained to Volvo about the flaking insulation on the engine wiring harness. Volvo split the replacement with me 50/50, costing me about $635.
The two cables that carry power through the hatch hinges to the rear wiper, rear door lock, tail and license plates lights do tend to fail every 6 years or so. Fortunately, ExpressAutoParts. com sells these cables for about $10 each. One thing not mentioned in the review is that there are also ground wires in the hinges that also fail. These failures are most likely due to the flexing of the cables every time the rear hatch door is raised/lowered combined with exposure to the elements.
I have also found that the automatic transmission overdrive relay fails and needs to be replaced every 4-5 years or so.
For some reason, the throttle plate position sensor tends to go out of adjustment occasionally. This usually causes hard starting.
The lumbar support in the driver's seat broke about 2 years ago on the 1985.
Areas of the car that have had no problems:
The fuel system on both cars has been perfect; no problems with injectors, pumps, or anything else.
Alternators, starters, power steering pumps, and A/C systems are original.
Blower motors both work just fine.
I also have a 1997 850 T-5 that is just great. 35,000 miles and no problems whatsoever.
About being slow:
In Australia we didn't get the F series volvo motors, we got the E series, which were substantially more powerful, for example my '82 volvo 244GLE with B23E motor provides 144hp, or 103kw, in standard form, which is a higher power output than the B21FT turbo motor sold in the states. My output is now somewhere in the region of 175hp, (127kw) and I have no problems whatsoever with performance, in fact I am much quicker than many six cylinder cars, and some (albeit old and poorly designed) V8's (eg. Holden 253ci (4.2L) V8 which produces 99kw standard) If you want a reasonably quick standard volvo, import the UK/Australian models with the E type motors, for some reason you guys in america have been cheated out of quite a few horses. Also my 244 has been weighed a couple of times and is only 1209kg (approx 2400lbs), with spare tyre and full fuel... so I don't know where your weight of 3000lbs comes from... different equipment specs maybe?
I'm also from Australia, and we own five 240 series cars, two 140s and a 164. If you find one with a B23 (anything after about 1981) they are not slow. We have a couple of B21s too and they are a little on the ponderous side, but not what I would call dangerous, and we live in the country.
I'd also make the comment that given the target market of the 240 it is infinitely preferable to set the car up mainly for understeer, as it is generally safer for the average "mug" driver. We occasionally take one of ours, which has been modified, to the racetrack, and after some basic modifications find the handling to be delightful and very neutral. Given provocation, the car can be held sideways for extended periods.
I love my Volvos and every time I drive or ride in something else (including many new cars) I am very very glad to get back in to the Volvo. There's just nothing else that gives you that feeling of security.
What modifications did you make to your suspension setup to make the car handle neutrally? And are the mods street legal? I've only lightly played with the motor in the '82 and am not going to do anything wild to it for drivability/economy reasons, but the suspension is mainly stock apart from some new shockies which aren't anything special. have been wondering for a while what I should do to make the handling a bit better... any tips would be greatly appreciated.
The australian guy with the 82 GLE.
If you go to www.ipdusa.com you can find stiffer anti-sway bars for your car. They're around $250 though, so if you want a much cheaper deal, you can just get the bars from a turbo model, which are thicker than lower model cars. If you want to make it more neutral, swapping in a thicker turbo rear bar may be all you need.
I have an '82 Volvo 244 GLE saloon in New Zealand and bought it in 1987. In 2001 it began to start poorly and perform poorly. I spent multi bucks on tuning and spare parts, but with no better performance. In October 2002 it just stopped and after a lot of tinkering I discovered that the engine oil was under pressure. I used it once more and all the oil shot out of the oil filler tube. What a mess; you can imagine.
I took off the manifold and all the injection gear and finally got to the crankcase breather. It was absolutely blocked with something akin to concrete. Even the tube connecting to the underside of the manifold was blocked and I had to drill it out.
Anyway, after unblocking the whole system and putting it together it is ticking over like a new one. All I need now is a tune up.
Has anyone else experienced this type of event??
I have just bought a 1985 240 DL volvo with 406,0983 km on it and it still runs!
Not well mind you, it doesn't come up big hills... and it doesn't accel well @ all and the 1st problem I just had today... for some reason... it won't start...DAMN..someone help me!
I have an 85 240DL it has 210,000 mile and still runs excellent! It gets around 24mpg driving 35 miles each way to work. No it isn't the fastest car, but it is fine for a commuter car. Yes there are cars that have more power and get mileage, but I don't think you can get one for the price you can get a 240 for. Brakes excellent handling fair and performance adequate. You can get a decent one here in California for $800-$1400 decent mileage and comfort and great safety. I would buy another one anytime.
I just purchase my second Volvo. This one a 1983 240 DL Wagon. When I tell people how much I paid they all stand there with their mouths wide open gasping. It was a one owner, well maintained wagon with 219,000 miles showing. Passed it's California emissions test the first time, started the first time after being parked for 3 months. The factory air conditioning is still blowing icy cold, everything is working except the power door locks seem to have a mind of their own. While driving I hear a click and they will subsequently lock on their own, and unlock on their own. A small price to pay for a good looking, functional, safe Volvo which I paid $550 for here in Los Angeles. I highly recommend a 240 series Volvo for reliable, safe and stylish transportation.
I love my 83 245 and I still runs great power locks still work in the tailgate still work and I have to running very very fast.
Love
a 83 245 grease-monkey.
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