Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-53
Fuel pump a few times (not sure of the mileage).
Exhaust system around 130k, basic tune-up stuff.
My dad owned the truck before me, and my neighbor before that, so I know the whole history of it. No serious problems ever with it.
Replaced the fuel pump a few times (My dad was throwing parts at it).
Engine smokes really bad at startup every winter (gone once it warms it's gone).
The clutch is original (yes, 194k miles) and the engine runs damn good, but the lifters are noisy during the summer.
My only complaints are that the manual steering is unbelievably stiff. and the other thing is that the truck is S-L-O-W! No power at all.
Great gas mileage for the most part.
It's never had a serious breakdown when my neighbor, my dad, or myself owned it. The older Mazdas (before Ford re-badged Rangers as B series trucks (93 and newer)) are good solid little trucks.
I own an 89 B2200 with 240,000 miles, I put every one on and I've loved every mile. I still drive it today and would have to agree that it's a good truck and has more room inside that those remarked B series in the 93 models.
Looking for a good trouble shooting web-page for the little things that happen to a truck with so many miles, anyone got any directions?
Thanks
Harry at sgtgreen@yahoo.com
First off, HARRY, check your E-mail (sgtgreen@yahoo.com).
To the person who posted the comments that Harry, and now I, replied to:
The most probable reason your engine smokes at startup is worn valve seals.
There are rubber o-rings that fit onto both the intake and exhaust valves in your cylinder head that allow for engine oil to lubricate the valve stems, as they move, but seal the oil from entering the cylinder.
As time goes on, these seals wear out and can cause small amounts of oil to leak past.
The result is added smoke during startup, as everything in the engine is "cold" at that point.
As the engine runs, it builds up heat. When enough heat has built-up, the o-rings will expand (as anything will when heated) and once again seal the engine oil out of the cylinder.
The cure for this is a simple "head job".
If you're not mechanically inclined, or don't have the proper repair manual and/or tools, this type of work is best performed by a qualified professional.
When the cylinder head is refurbished, valve guides and all seals will automatically be replaced.
Another reason for that smoke MAY be a stuck choke.
When the engine is cold, the choke is automatically turned on.
This richens the fuel/air mixture entering the engine, allowing the engine to run smoother during this warm-up period.
As engine heats comes up to operating tempreature, the choke is supposed to "shut off".
If it sticks, it will keep the air/fuel mixture in a "rich" condition, meaning there will be an excessive amount of fuel entering the engine, compared to amount of air entering the engine.
Unfortunately, the old trick of checking the colour of the tailpipe doesn't work on vehicles that contain a catalytic converter (and you've got 2), since the chemical reaction that happens inside the converter renders water as part of it's emission, thereby, "cleaning" the end of the tailpipe.
As for your noisy lifters, you may need to replace the lifters AND the oil pump in your truck.
The oil pump on a Mazda B2200 is located on the front of the engine, with the front snout of the crankshaft running through it (that's how it's driven).
This is a common placement for any 4-cylinder import engine.
When I rebuilt my engine, I noticed that the oil pressure regulator is built into the oil pump, as it has been on most vehicles for many years now.
The oil pressure regulator in our engine consists of a tubular looking passage in the oil pump in which a steel piston moves within it. There are also 2 holes in the passage, one goes to the main bearings, the other leads back to the oil pan.
This is how pressure is regulated in most engines. As the pressure builds, it pushes against the piston until it uncovers the second hole.
Oil is then allowed to drain back into the pan, thereby holding the oil pressure to a set amount.
The problem with our particular engine is that the body of the oil pump is Aluminum.
The piston, which regulates the oil pressure, is STEEL... WITH VERY SHARP EDGES.
... (starting to get the picture?)...
The sharp edges of the piston act like a wood plane, and wear away at the passage in the pump, eventually rendering the shape more like a football than a tube.
Eventually, this allows the piston to cock in the passage, allowing oil to ALWAYS bleed back into the pan.
This causes a slightly low oil pressure condition, and makes it just low enough, so that the hydraulic lifters don't see an ample amount of oil.
Since they're nothing more than hydraulic pistons themselves, the seal contained within them, wears away prematurely, due to the lack of sufficient oil, causing them to lose the oil pressure inside themselves, which makes the lifters "noisy".
The sound you're hearing are the lifters actually banging against the top of the valves!
This can chip away at the valve, and if left long enough, can either break the valve, or chip enough material away, that the "key" which holds the valve in place slips free allowing the valve to fall inside the cylinder while the engine is running, causing a lot of internal damage to the engine.
At that point, you may be able to rebuild it, but you'll at least have to replace the cylinder head and the piston.
If the walls of the cylinder obtain deep gouges in them, from the valve (s) banging around inside the cylinder, then a whole new engine may be in order, since most import 4 cylinders are only built to be over-bored, maybe.040" max.
Of course, the valve falling into the cylinder is an absolute worst case scenario, but if left untreated, this could quite possibly happen.
Can't tell you why the steering is so stiff.
Are you running especially "sticky" tires on it?
When I first got my truck, I put on a set of Michelin X's and I found they were incredibly sticky.
They actually increased the amount of play in my steering wheel.
I've been using a more "generic" brand of tire since those hit their 50K mile limit, at which time I changed them out.
The "generic" tires were not only cheaper, but they're not as "sticky", and the steering became easier.
Here's another thing... what tire pressure are you running most of the time?
According to the sticker inside the drivers side door, you should normally run 26 psi in the front and 24 psi in the rear.
I've found that if you increase the front tire pressure slightly, to 28 psi, that the steering becomes remarkably easier, without any affect to tire wear.
Lastly, you remark that the truck is slow.
Well, first off, you have to remember you have a small displacement 4 cylinder, not a 425hp Chrysler Hemi, under that hood.
The factory states that the engine only made 85 horsepower and about 117 lbs./ft. of torque, so your remark that it's "slow" may be relative.
You should be getting to 60mph in around 12 seconds and 1/4 mile times should be around 18 seconds, if you push it hard.
However, the choke/high idle on that particular series of carburetor is all controlled by one screw.
Basically, once you set the choke, the high idle is automatically set.
There's a boss cast into the body of the carburetor that you use as something to measure against.
The arm that the adjustment screw moves should clearance that boss by only.063" when the engine is cold.
The problem here is that when you set that clearance, high idle on our engine approaches 6000 rpm!
Being a former mechanic, I know this rpm is WAY too high, for an engine that's "freewheeling" (no load). In fact, I noticed actual chips around the oil holes on the rod bearings when I rebuilt my engine, and attribute them to this and the oil pump problem I wrote about earlier.
The reason Mazda decided to do this was to reduce warm-up time (i.e., faster the engine turns, the faster it warms up).
The engine is only supposed to sit in "high idle mode" for no more than about 30 seconds. However, In all the time I've owned my truck, I've never known this to happen. It'll just run and run and run, until I physically went out and kicked the high idle by popping the accelerator pedal.
I've heard similar stories from other Mazda owners.
My solution was to simply turn the high idle down to a more "normal" 1600 rpm.
Unfortunately, this throws the choke so far out of whack, that it causes the choke to constantly be on (one would have to lengthen the rod connecting the arms, in order to set things back right, so the old trick of "bending the rod" on early emissions Rochester carbs doesn't work here).
What I noticed, mostly, from all of this was a LACK OF POWER, since the choke plates were always closed.
I also noticed dismal gas mileage.
Constant freeway driving at 55mph (the limit back then) only yielded about 22 mpg. It should've been closer to 25 mpg.
Once I removed the choke plates (2 screws), the engine regained it's former power and my mileage came back up to more respectable levels.
I've been running the truck this way for about 5 or 6 years now.
However, the downside is longer warm up times.
If I start the truck now, and try to take off right away, it bucks and frequently stalls, since the mixture isn't rich enough to ensure the engine runs properly during the cold condition.
SO, if you can live with sitting around for a minute or two while the engine warms up, this might help... of course, that is IF you've lowered the high idle speed, as I did.
Otherwise, accept the truck for what it is, and if you wanna go fast, drop a hot big block into an ol' Chevelle and take it to the track.
Hope you found this helpful,
Dean Seaman.
OK. First the choke. Simple. Do what I did. Unhook it. But be ready to go when you get in. Not going to idle for long. Only way I have found, after 850-some-odd thousand miles. And with only one major overhaul. This was the result of a slung timing belt.
Steering? Well that was easier than the engine. I upped the tire size a little, well, if you call 275/60/15 a little. 8 inch wheels, stock offset. Nope, it is lowered 2 inches front and rear. And yes they rub, though not too bad. I found this actually made it easier to steer, but you have to get it rolling to see the difference. An increase in handling that makes it a pleasure to drive.
Seating and comfort. Scrap the old seats and go for buckets. 87 Blazers seats fit great. Throw in a cheap aftermarket center console and you got comfort and leg room. I stand right at 6 ft. and fit like a glove. While we are sitting in our trucks, lets look at the radio. Why did they put it there? My thought was to relocate it under the middle vents. Not so easy with a big face radio though.
I used my 90 model as an escort vehicle. Made a good choice too. It has been almost as far as you can go without loading it on a boat. I was a little unsure when I got it as to if it would last, but not now. It made a believer out of me. After nearly a million miles, it is still in my driveway.
Power. Well, I had to make some of my own mods. there. First was the choke. Tied it open, no need to remove the flaps that way. Could have went with a manual choke too though, but I get in and go so no need for it. Even at 2 degrees it has always fired right up, almost every time. There has been a few times its failed, but that was the battery.
One mod was the converter below the manifold. Had to go. Home-made headers did the trick. They were easy to make too. That really made a difference. But the runners have to be the same length. Then you can have dual-true dual-exhaust. And that little engine sounds great like that. Experiment with which cylinders to connect to get the sound you like from it.
Next was the stock coil. They need a hotter coil to come alive. Split-fire plugs are a boost too. But don't overlook the cap and whats inside. Can't tell all my secrets so go experiment on yours.
Also, don't forget the oil pressure. I am sure most suffer low readings on the gauge. But I found that the pump can be up-graded or better yet, just turn the screw and let her flow. Most are adjustable, but be careful here, wrong way and you kill oil pressure. And that's the life blood of the engine.
As for performance, well it is not a Ferrari, so don't expect much from it. After all most 2000 and 2200 trucks weigh about 3000 pounds. Heavy for four little cylinders to push along at 55 miles an hour. But a few changes and mine went from 0 to 60 in just under 7 seconds. Not bad for four little cylinders. And reaches speeds of around 125-30 on top end. Not cheaply though. You have to pay to play. But after all the changes it has gone through, I still get 20 in town and close to 28 on the highway, as long as my right foot stays light.
One more thing. I had trouble with mine blowing oil out into the breather, with pcv valves clogging up too often. They call it blow by. I solved that problem by adding a slobber tube. Take the pcv valve out and toss it, but be sure to plug the line so you don't cause a vacuum leak. Where the tube that runs to the breather connects to the valve cover, remove it and add a piece of plain old garden hose. Run this down to below the oil pan and tie it to the frame with a wire tie. I found this saves those messy crank shaft and camshaft seal leaks that develope from the pcv getting stopped up and keeps the pressure from blowing oil into the air cleaner.
Hope maybe I helped someone with what I gathered over 6 years of owning my truck. Which has what I just read to have exactly 852612 miles on it. One engine rebuild and some tricks added. But still has the same tranny and rear axle she was born with.
What screw in the oil pump are you referring to?
Are you saying remove the pressure regulator and it's spring?
How do you know you're doing 125-130mph, when the speedo only goes to 110?
...also, hopefully you don't have to go through any emissions tests where you live.
The PCV fix you described is called a "Road Draft Tube". This was common on all vehicles before the 1968 emissions laws took effect.
If you go for an Emissions test and they see that tube, you'll flunk, RIGHT NOW.
They're not "environmentally friendly", and that's why you don't see them anymore (except on OTR vehicles).
Hope to hear a reply soon,
Dean Seaman.
Hi, I drive a 1987 Mazda B2000 Se-5, I was reading about the engine mods someone said you can do to improve speed. I was wondering if you could tip me in on how to do these or anything like that? Thanks.
I would be highly suspect of the performance claims you read about in the earlier reply.
As I stated in response, how does this person know they're doing 125-130 mph when the speedo only goes to 110.
...hmmm...
Also, I've done some looking around in the 10 years I've owned my truck and there aren't a whole lot of "speed parts" available for that engine.
This isn't a small block Chevy.
Crane MAY make a performance cam for that engine.
Headers? I've never seen a manufacturer list one. Possibly Clifford, as they do make some 4-cylinder stuff, but I'm pretty sure it would be for the older engine.
Even from reading that person's description of the "headers" they put on their engine, it doesn't sound to me like they've actually placed headers on it, but rather a "straight pipe", which would simply have a flange that mates to the stock exhaust manifold and connects to the stock pipe, replacing the first stage, or "pre-cat" Catalytic converter.
This still leaves another catalytic converter downstream, in the traditional location (about 2 feet in front of the muffler).
By definition, this is not a "header".
A Header is a replacement piece for the entire exhaust manifold (or manifold assy.) consisting of a flange (or flanges) which bolts to and seals against the exhaust ports on the cylinder head, then uses a series of individual pipes that all lead down to either a single or multiple collect (s). The exhaust pipe then connects to this (these) collector (s) and continues on down from there.
Also, 6-7 second 0-60 times?
Those times are indicative of a vehicle which would be able to cover a 1/4 mile in around 15 seconds.
This means one would be traveling at approx. 90-95 mph at the end of a 1/4 mile.
I've driven my truck flat out, at a time when it was still fairly new, and the speedo only got up to 93 mph.
It took a lot longer than 1/4 mile to reach that speed.
Considering the "improvements" that person listed doing to their truck, the numbers they boast just don't seem realistic.
The hotter coil idea does have merit though and I've been thinking of doing something similar to my own truck.
The hotter spark would aid more in drivability and fuel efficiency than any real "seat-of-the-pants" power gains, but like all things, should be part of a "collective" of improvements.
In this case, I would accessorize the hotter coil with larger diameter plug wires (such a set of 8.8mm wires) and open the spark plug gap a little, increasing from a.32" plug gap (stock) to maybe a.40" spark plug gap.
I was once told that electricity flows like water.
For the same amount of water to flow, it will take longer for the water to flow through a small pipe, compared to a larger one, and it'll be harder to get that water to flow through the smaller pipe at the same speed than through the larger one, which will be indicated by a higher water pressure reading in the small pipe.
Same with electricity.
Every time that coil goes off, there a certain amount of electricity that flows through any of the wires.
It's going to be harder to get that electricity to get to the plug if you use a small wire.
This can cause the wires to wear out prematurely, since that greater amount of electricity has to "force" it's way through the smaller wire.
The electricity will flow through the larger wire easier, ensuring better reliability and ensuring the plug sees all of that juice quicker (or all at the same time), allowing for a larger spark.
It's the larger, hotter spark that'll ensure you burn all of that air/fuel mixture and THAT'S what makes the difference in this particular case.
My B2200 uses a traditional style coil and I've been seeing ads for a coil made by MSD called a "Blaster 2".
It's reported that the output is 45KV, which is approx. double the output of the stock coil.
If this coil is to be put into the system, then would be to also...
...Use only the HIGHEST quality cap and rotor, as the hotter electrical charge is going to harder on that equipment as well.
Borg/Warner and Beck/Arnley make some very nice pieces, high quality that are priced competitively.
...Use a good quality wire. However it will have to be custom made, as no one makes a set of wire for the B2200 in anything other than a stock size (7mm. Making up spark plug wires is not really that complicated).
...Use good quality plugs. For plugs, I've had the best luck with AC's, regardless of vehicle.
Others will probably state another brand, but I've tried them all (Champion, Autolite, NGK, etc.) and have always had the best luck with AC.
Hope this helped.
Dean Seaman.
This is a response made to a response I made.
Look fellas, not everyone works under a shade tree. I said 125-130 and that's what I meant. Just because you haven't figured it out yet don't mean I haven't.
I had to come up with and make everything I did to my truck. Including the headers. And to answer any questions you may have, nope, no smog laws other than converters. And if I'm not mistaken, Flowmaster makes them. But I don't run any. Camshaft was made by an engine builder near me.
But! What I did, you can do also! I learn from my mistakes. And couldnt be happier.
I won't try to argue with anyone about my abilities or knowledge. So, let me just say. MEET ME AT THE DRAG STRIP!!!
Many thanks to the advice on pickup performance. This little truck is very well constructed and should last many years. one tip I would like to add is,to disengage the electric choke, an buy an aftermarket manual choke kit. it will save a lot of headaches an trouble.The next thing to add is solid core wires an a fresh tune up. the solid upper bushings on the 2200 is very likely to wear out,i found mine very dangerously worn. Polyethelene bushings help a lot with cornering on the torsion bar. The white smoke produced on the pickup is from the reaction of the catalytic converters production of water to steam like its suppose to do.
1988 B2200 Vacuum hoses all mixed up. The diagram under the hood is not specific enough. Is there
a usable diagram which is specific to location. An illustrated (photo) type would be most useful.
What is the acceptable oil usage per 1000 miles for this motor?
BJH.
I realize this "thread" was started a year ago, but I have a question for you. The timing belt broke on my Mazda, at about 270,000 km. I need to take the bolt off of the crankshaft, and wondered if the thread is reversed. I don't want to reef on it one way, and strip it. Also, are there any good on-line manuals for this type of thing, in case I need reference? (changing a timing belt)
Thanks a bunch,
Greg.
Hi my name is George and I am the second owner of a Mazda B2200 that my father gave me. Its been properly maintained and is still running at 200,000+ miles. We recently replaced the carburetor, and engine sensors, and the muffler.
Right now I have a critical problem and don't know what it is. I was driving for about 80 miles on the freeway and it was dark so I had my lights on, and all of the sudden my stereo goes out and my lights start to slowly dim away. As I apply pressure to the brakes, the lights go out completely. I almost reached my destination, it was 5 miles away. I continued to drive with very dim lights. I made it through the night, but I parked it in a parking structure. The following day, it would not start. I tried to start it by pushing it down the parking structure and releasing the clutch in second gear. That didn't work. I also tried getting it to start by jumper cables, that too didn't help.
I then decided to check the fuse box under the steering wheel. All of the fuses seemed to be OK, and I also checked the ones under the hood. They are in a black box and there are 3 of them. (80A, 30A, 30A) Those were OK as well.
Another thing that I noticed was that the engine lights would not turn on as I turned the key. They are suppose to turn on at the ON Position.
I know it could not be the battery, the lights were super bright and the horn was very loud. All the electrical seemed to work, but not the cigarette lighter, stereo, or the engine lights (check engine, brake, oil, seat belts)
I don't know if it could be the alternator or starter or even both. There is no sound when I turn the key, and it won't start on a rolling start or jump start.
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There is another problem, when my truck is cold, it backfires. Like a gun shot when I release the gas pedal after doing anything over 25mph. This noise is very loud, but as it warms up it disappears. I had to buy a new muffler because of this, and had my carburetor fixed. Yet it still didn't help. My guess is that its the catalytic converter under the manifold. I'm not quiet sure if its that, or if its something else. I know its not the catalytic converter that's on the muffler, because it still explodes before that.
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You help is greatly appreciated.
Jorge_gut@hotmail.com.
Could anyone help get hold of an owner's manual to an 89 B2200?
I've been reading many reviews on the b series pickup and every one is just about rite except for the truck being slow. I live in Canada so I don't know what changes were made to our models if any, but I own a 88 and an 89 b2200 they have an extreme amount of power for a little truck. as for performance parts there is a very wide variety to up those pony's etc:pacesetter exhaust, accel, k-n filters, comp cams, crane cams, borla exhaust, nology, j-e pistons, bosch, unorthodox racing, weber carbs, ram clutches, richmond gears, and even royal purple oil will give you upto 10 horse.
To solve your choke problem it dosen't stick open it's the heat riser valve.
Burning oil could be three things, feul injected models it's just the head gasket, carbed models it's the valve seals or the oil bearings.
If you have any questions or concerns email me at turbo032@hotmail.com
Also if your interested in lowering or doing custom work at extremly low prices I have the easy way out of breaking your walet,
Hi, I currently own an 88 b2200, it has 180,000 kms and ran great for the first 178,000 of them. Now it seems like every week something new comes up. It's really starting to frustrate me especially the problem I'm battling right now. The truck is running way too hot and I can't find the source. Has this happened to anyone else, if so where did you come across the coolant leak? Another quick question, is it possible that this problem could be linked to my ignition seizing on my key to the point where it's become very difficult to turn?
Please email me with ideas at : mdarnbro@hotmail.com.
I've got an owners manual for an 89 b2200 if your just talking about the one that comes with the truck. As far as the slow comments go, mine isn't bad at all for a carburated little four, and I didn't start building it yet for speed. If anyone knows of a header out there for it let me know, I'd rather not have to weld up my own. The guy wanting the manual or anyone else can contact me at bigblockbird@yahoo.com.