1984 Ford Thunderbird Base from North America - Comments

I got this car for nothing, as the previous owner blew the headgaskets. After about a week, taking my time, I got the car running, and have just been working out misc problems...

Cap

Rotor

Wires

Plugs

Ignition module

Front brakes

General braking system problems

Water pump

Heater core...leaks, but bypassed.. didn't want to pull the dash to fix it

Fuel pump

Fuel pump relay

Fuel pump cut off switch

Exhaust... catalytic convertor was plugged due to the head gaskets, but since I've got echeck papers good till 2004, who needs the converter, replaced most of exhaust with the use of "flexi-pipe" and the cheapest muffler out there, the glass packer.

At the moment it's really harsh on gas, about 14mpg, and it has symptoms of overheating, such as it gushes the coolant out of the overflow, but never seems to actually overheat... (except for once at an idle, but that was because some numbskull put some screen infront of the radiator, which is already restricted by the non-functional A/C's radiator). but if anyone has any clues to either of these, email me at whitetrash1982@neo.rr.com

Overall, I expect a car like this to need help, that's why I got it, as a fix-her-up-er.

It's a very comfortable car, has a nice smooth ride, and on a nice day it's great to cruise in... a cold day wouldn't be too bad if it had heat LOL.

Once it gets up over 30 into 2nd and 3rd gear, it cruises... I expect a tranny oil change is due.

I am having problems with my 1984 Ford Thunderbird. The braking system isn't working properly. When I depress the brake pedal it goes half-way to the floor before it actually starts to stop the car then 3/4 of the way down just to stop the car. I've tried bleeding the brakes numerous times and that seems to work for a while. But after 3 or 4 weeks go by it's back to the same stuff. It's not loosing brake fluid because I would notice it when I bleed the brakes. I've replace the master cylinder twice. I bled them both exactly to the instructions on bench bleeding. I put the new unit on and bleed the brakes. They seem to be fine when the car is off, but when I turn the car on the brakes go right to the floor. A mechanic said to try moving the car back and forth to wear in the master cylinder, but it doesn't seem to work. Finally I gave up and put the old one on and I'm back to the same stuff. I replaced my brakes and rotors and rear wheel cylinders, but nothing seems to work. I have a 3.8L carbureted engine. If anyone can help me please e-mail me at mjbergum7@yahoo.com.

Thanks!

My son has a 1984 Ford Thunderbird 5 litre motor. The car will not start and he suspects the fuel pump cut-off switch or the inertia switch. Do you have any idea where this would be on the car?

Thank you.

Fuel pump inertia switch is located in the trunk on the passenger side.