I had to replace the two front tires at 12,000 miles. The stock tires were quite expensive to replace. The stock tires are really a performance tire. There's the disconnect. This is really a high-performance "family" car. Performance is one thing, silliness is quite another.
The car had a recall on the fluid level sensing units in the gas tank. Prior to the recall the system was working perfectly. The problem is that now they've been replaced they've never worked properly again. When I picked up the car from the recall service the service manager told me that they could only fill the gas tank to 3/4 mark because the car was "on a hill". The truth is that the new sensors don't work over the 3/4 capacity mark. After some time I finally got their attention and after a "diagnosis" they finally concluded that "yes" those replacement sensors "were not functioning properly". New replacement sensors were ordered. It had to be returned once again to repair "the repair".
The front rotors and pads had to be replaced at 27,000 miles. Sure, I understand that this car is plagued by a short warranty period, but to have to even think of replacing rotors and pads on a $30+K car at 27K miles is absurd in first principles. I live on a dirt road which is rather common for folks in the Northeast. Further, in the winter time it's not uncommon for cars to get dirty. It was explained to me that because I live on a dirt road that it should be considered "normal" to have to replace these parts. I see this as a questionable position for the dealer and Volkswagon. Rather VW should consider that the rotors and the venting holes in the rotors are poorly designed. Furthermore, the replacement parts, being highly priced (i.e., pads at $140 for 2) just adds insult to injury. As they are apparently planning for premature failure, they could consider pricing these parts more reasonably.
You know, this is really a wonderful "concept" car; fast, tight, well appointed, apparently safe. Too bad it's flaw is so significant; really high cost of maintenance and repair.
I agree that the New Passat has many problems. I own a 1999 Passat GLS V6. I had to have the front brake pads replaced at only 25,000 miles. The air blower started to make noise at 20,000 miles. The cassette player also makes a grinding noise after 20,000 miles. Now I understand why VW gives the shortest warranty in the auto industry.
What's more, it's difficult to replace the Passat's engine oil by yourself. It took me, an automotive engineer, more than an hour to do the oil change on my driveway. Try it! It's really challenging. By the way, the Passat manual specifies that the V6 takes 5.0L of engine oil. It actually takes 5.7L.
I just wrote a review on my 2002 Passat GLS V6. I have to agree that this machine is disappointing in initial quality coming from "German engineering". I'm an engineer myself and have owned two earlier VW's - a 1988 Fox GL sport 5 speed and my wife now has a 1998 Jetta GT. Both those machines are bulletproof. (Believe it or not the salesman who sold me the Passat bought my Fox with 200,000 miles on it, looking good and running strong).
I've lost confidence in the Passat as I've had too many early problems to think otherwise - even though I enjoy driving it. It truly is a car built on delicate tolerances and that's why my dash rattles so much. I hope I'm not in for a long haul of trouble as the odometer just turned 12,000 miles tonight.
Best of Luck!
It is my understanding that the 2000 passat comes with 3 different types of brake setup. The VW-company redesigned the brakes twice that year and my friend who purchased his car late in the year 2000 has had no problems what so ever.
First VW replaced the disks with bigger ones and then they modified the brake pads as well.
I purchased a new 2000 Passat in January 2001. I absolutely love the car, but I wish I had done more research on the cost of maintenance. After only 40,000 miles on my car and having the service done on time every time, I now have a $700 bill to repair 3 parts that never should have malfunctioned if service was done properly, which according to the service manual, it was. Unless you have lots of money and time to burn, you should consider a more tried and true vehicle.
I own a 2001.5 VW Passat with every available option. I purchased the vehicle with a 10 year/100,000 mile warranty. I had a slight misalignment of the driver's rear door form day 1. over 1 year later, we finally notified the dealer. Fixed. No cost. Do-It-Your-Self-maintenance is a bear. The brakes are wearing unsatisfactorily, but, then, most OEM brakes do, when the vehicle steadily goes faster than most other vehicles in the same class, thereby leading to stiffer pedal usage. I had a '95 Thunderbird SC with the same problem. I'll simply go to my local shop, buy new rotors and pads, pay less, stop shorter, and wear longer. BTW, the drive line can handle over 500 horsepower with the tiptronic 4motion setup. Seems like the most solid and upgradeable family sedan I've ever seen.
I have a 2000 Passat, which I love to drive. Three of my relatives also own 2000 Passats. Between the four Passats, we've gone through a total of 7 air pumps. It seems they fill with water and become water pumps, for a very short while. VW Customer Service indicates this is a rare occurrence (just not for us I guess). It is also not an emissions part (so exactly what does it do), which would have been covered under the 50K emissions warranty, even though the "EMISSIONS" Trouble light comes on as a result. I love the car, but VW surely doesn't stand behind them. I'm afraid I'll never buy another for that very reason.
Hi there. I have a 2000 VW Passat 1.8T. I acquired this car when it had 11,000 miles on it. While initially I have not had any trouble at all with it, in the past 6 months, it seems all has gone to heck with it. Nearing 52,000 miles now, (in sales), I have having a problem with two things currently.
1. the emissions light (workshop) is on. It just got out of the shop for this and after a day, was right back on. Back to the dealer I go.
2. I had an issue in Jan. with the oil pressure light coming on, along with a very alarming STOP ENGINE/OIL PRESSURE message on the display. After determining that my last service work (done at an out of town garage) likely didn't change my oil or filter, my mechanic drained/cleaned/changed filter two times in a short period, and the problem seemed solved. No gunk in oil.. This week, after much driving of the car, the light is on again, though it can't be triggered. Back at my mechanic, he has done all he can do, sees no issue with the oil pressure at all. Guess I will have to take it to the dealer (who I am dissatisfied with due to past repair work).
Trying to see if anyone anywhere has experienced the oil pressure message and what might have been possible issues. Thinking of getting fixed best I can and trading car in due to assortment of issues in past few months.
I also have the problem with the oil pressure warning/stop warning lights shouting at me. I stopped my car and had it towed to the dealership and the mechanic drove my car for seven miles, but the fault indicators did not re-appear. The mechanics advised that I had many misfire codes and a faulty air flow sensor. He suggested I get the 80,000 mile service and a new sensor. I got the 80k service. The 80k service kept the fault warnings away for two days, but then the faults returned. Now it appears the problem may indeed be a faulty air flow sensor/oxygen sensor which will cost 700 bucks. I already paid about 500 bucks for the 80k service. My car is just parked in the garage now as an expensive ornament. Perhaps your problem will be the air flow sensor. Try that if you have the money. Good luck.
I bought a 2000 Passat wagon v6 in Feb 02 with 6500 miles. It was the General Manager's car so we got it as new being it had not been registered. I have had the Oxygen sensor replaced and have been to the dealer 6 times for Emission system/Check Engine/STOP driving low coolant lights. I also seem to have a problem with oil consumption. I add 1 to 1 1/2 quarts between each 5k mile oil change and I add coolant at least twice a year. My warranty expires in June 03 and wonder if the new Passat's are any better?
We have a 4motion wagon. We take it skiing a lot, get it quite dirty, occasionally beat it up, and have never had any of these problems. One time it wouldn't start up, but that seemed to fix itself and never resurfaced. I wouldn't mind some real cupholders, though...
I have a 2000 VW Passat and the rear brakes have gone out at 37,000 miles. They claim at the shop that I had been driving with the emergency brake on for many miles. I don't know how that could be possible. It has been a good car except for the brakes and the emissions light staying on.
I have a 2000 Passat and have had continual problems with the emissions systems. The 'check engine' light has been on and off for the past two years. I've had to had the same air pump replaced twice, plus some additional valves, for a cost of $2300 and not covered by warranty. A fun car to drive, but not much fun to own.
In regards to the oil pressure problems previously noted, I have (hopefully) ended my nightmare with VW and this issue. The light started going on for me after an oil change at a local Chevron (my bad).
Around this time there was an obvious lifter clicking sound when the engine got warm and at startup. The first dealership I took it to spent 5 hours and no fault diagnosis, let alone they totally missed an obvious broken vacuum hose after they had "finished". They had the nerve to charge me extra for the hose and labor and sent me on my way.
The advisor recommended fuel additive for the lifter noise and right after I put it in, I got an emmissions workshop light on.
I finally took it to my mechanic who was the only one who seemed to know what he was talking about. He found another broken vacuum hose, tested the oil pressure (which seemed to come out OK), reset the alert system, and did the rest of a 60k service.
A month later, the oil pressure warning comes on, I called VW America and they referred me to another dealer/service.
A way too long story short, the foreman got in the car with me and instantly told me my oil pump was bad.
I got to pick up my Passat today with its new pump, and cross my fingers all is going to be well.
I hope all of you can find a VW mechanic that is straight up and knowledgeable, and not have to wait the 4 months that I did.
2000 Passat"trouble lights" Dealer finally found a over tightened wire tie on wiring between cams. Cut tie, problem gone. Yeah!!!
November 2001 - I purchased a pre-owned 2000 VW Passat 1.8 turbo (4 cylinders) with a clutch from a very reputable dealership. The car had 28,000 miles when I purchased it. This was my very first time purchasing a VW and therefore I did not do any Internet research or had not read information on the car before buying it. The Passat caught my eye on the used car lot, it just stood out among the other used cars. The car was very expensive considering that it was pre-owned. I paid extra for an extended warranty which was for 3 years or 36,000 miles whichever came first. Of course, the warranty ran out long before I had these problems. I currently have 80,000 miles.
January 2002 - Two months later the "check engine" and the "emissions workshop" light came on. I did not think much of the "emission workshop" light, but the "check engine" light worried me. Again, I was a newcomer to the Volkswagens.
February 2002 - I took it to a VW dealership and explained these lights. They told me that the car needed an oil change and that would correct the lights from coming on. They gave my car an oil change, replaced front brake pads and installed the front right light bulb. The total of this was $343.00. The lights did go out for a couple of weeks and then they were back on again until present day. The car drove fine with these lights on until March of 2003.
March 2003 - A light came on that read, "oil pressure low - stop engine now - read service manual". I was driving 60 miles an hour down a busy highway, the light came on and smoke was coming from my engine. I stopped the car and I pulled over on the highway. For 10 minutes the car would not start then I waited for about 20 minutes longer and the car started. I drove home with no problems - the smoke stopped and the oil pressure light went out temporarily, but it came on 30 minutes later. The next day I took the car to the repair shop and they said to me that they it had to do something with the computer codes. They also said that I was two quarts low on the oil. This is impossible because my husband checked the oil two days before. The repair shop charged me $564.00 to fix these lights, oil change and brake pads (they informed me that my rear pads were low and the rotors needed scaling done to them). When I picked my car up from the shop a week later I was very happy. When I started the car up there were no lights. I couldn't believe it, but the next day in the afternoon the lights came back on. I never had a chance to take it back for fear that they would find more problems and charge me more money.
May 2003 - Two months later I was driving down the highway and my car slowed down and completely stopped running. I pulled over on the side of the road and tried to change gears from 1st to 2nd gear and the car would only go from 0 to 5 miles an hour. Fortunately at the next exit was a VW dealership, and I inched my car there on a busy highway from 1st to 2nd gear. It took me approximately 1 hour to get there. Under normal conditions from where the car stalled it would have taken 10 minutes. The VW service team said that I needed a clutch and flywheel and this would cost me $2,500.00. I thought that was absurd so I had the car towed from there to my house and the cost of the tow was $25.00 and fortunately this VW dealership was not far from my home. My car was parked for 8 weeks and during that time I had called around to different shops and they informed me that it would cost me less than VW dealerships to have my car repaired by them, but that it would be expensive somewhere in the range of $1,700.00-$2,000.
July 2003 - Again, I had the Passat towed from my house and to a reputable repair shop that I have been dealing with for a decade. Once again, the cost of the tow was $25.00. So, when we got the car there the repair shop informed us that they were going to charge us $2,200.00 to fix the clutch and flywheel and the shop also added that I needed a tire rod (which would be an extra fee). The shop asked me has the car ever "shimmed" as I was driving it and I told them "no". The car was in perfect alignment. When the shop quoted the price I was shocked because we had talked to them several times before and explained what type of car and what the problem was and they told us over the phone it would be anywhere in the range of $600 to $750.00. So I told them to forget it and I would have it towed back home. Later that day they called me and said they would have to charge me $540.00 to put the car back together. At this point I did not know what to do. But fortunately my husband called the President of this shop and worked out a deal to allow us to purchase our own clutch and flywheel at a wholesale price. I had the repair shop fix the car and they charged me for labor only ($541.00 for labor). The total for the parts and labor came up to $1,370.00.