Computer went out at 12,000 miles leaving me stranded in the middle of nowhere.
The instrument cluster went out, started flashing like a pinball machine at 28,000 miles.
Now, the fuel pump is going bad at 62,000 miles. I priced a new pump at the dealership as well as other sources. The new pump will cost at least $500 dollars, plus labor. The fuel pump also failed on my '93 and '96 Blazers, but they only cost around $100. Does anyone know what makes the fuel pump so expensive on this model? It'll make me feel a lot better if it's gold plated, or guaranteed to last the next 200,000 miles.
I really like the ride and handling of the blazer and am considering purchasing the new Trailblazer.
However I am really concerned about getting ripped off on parts replacement costs, like the fuel pump price on my '99.
I recently bought a used 1999 Blazer with 42,000 miles on it. and today I had to pay $500.00 plus labor for a new fuel pump! Henry Ford must be turning over in his grave! Cheaper cars for the masses ha!
Um, just thought I'd let you know, henry ford made FORDS, not Chevrolet.
Fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank, that makes it so expensive to replace.
You should try pricing the bearing assemblies on the 99's if you think the fuel pump is expensive. Both of our bearings assemblies went out at the same time, at 59,000 miles, and after calling the dealerships and part stores, found out they are a dealer-only item. How's $400.00 a piece for you? Try $1200.00 with labor. That much labor for wheel bearings? My husband changed them in 30 minutes! We ended up going to a junk yard and praying that they will last until we can sell it to some unsuspecting fool. I'm going foreign. With a huge warranty.
$400 a piece for for bearings? Dealer only item? I don't think so. I did my front bearings (actually on these models they come as an entire hub assembly with a completely contained bearing) in about 6 full hours, myself, and where able to find them at almost ANY auto parts store. All were competitively priced at about $160 each. But as a comparison, most repair shops (not the dealer... you NEVER go to the dealer) will do them for about $600.
This should be a lesson to you also to rotate your tires frequently. Also, you should have received new speed sensors with your wheel bearings which adds to the cost of the replacement item.
Rotate your tires every 5K, or at least every 10.
I rotated my tires every 6,000 miles. Made no difference. Had to replace bearings at 58,000 miles. What a joke.
Three people on our block (including me) own '99 Blazers. All have had problems with the electrical system: The electric windows sporadically stop and then start working until they quit working completely, the dome light won't go out or won't go on, problems with the power locks sporadically non-functioning. I can't believe that all three of us have had these same problems, but no one else has.
This is totally amazing! My first new car a '99 Blazer LS... Just like you, my left front wheel hub went bad at 55k along with my fuel pump, AND the rear wiper quit working! If my warranty hadn't covered it all, the dealer told me it would have cost almost $1500!!! Glad I got the warranty, but it didn't cover the oil cooler lines the very next week. Funny, the mechanic just finished another Blazer's oil lines the same day!
With my 93 S-10 I have had to replace the fuel pump twice. The plastic radiator burst at the seam just below the upper hose connector. Later, the heater core also burst at one of the seams. Shortly after that repair, it started billowing out clouds of steam from the tailpipe and there was a heavy smell of gasoline from the engine. I removed the upper and lower intake assembly and discovered that the lower intake gasket blew out and somehow the fuel lines inside the intake had sprung a leak. That cost me about $300 in parts and I did all the labor. It took me about two weeks to repair it part-time. Both front power windows have stopped working correctly. It seems there is some kind of overload circuit built into each motor that overheats and shuts them down until they cool. Tough luck if you live anywhere where the temperature gets over 70 degrees in the daytime. Just yesterday, the "Electronic Dashboard" started flashing off and on. I thought there was a UFO nearby. It gave one last flash of hope then faded out. I can only see how fast I am going and how far I have traveled. I guess that one grace will have to be enough. It looks like I am off to the dealership for a new dash. Maybe someday, I will save up enough to buy another armrest, center console, rear outboard seat belts, and front seat positioning control from them too. I already tapped into my 201K to buy another A/C Blower motor (did I mention it was smoking) and parts for the head gasket repair. After I get a new Digital Dashboard Display, my next project is to get another rear window latch to replace my worn-out one. The eternal squeaking is like the shriek of a wounded animal. Other than these few minor problems I am extremely happy with my 93 S-10 Blazer. I would gladly buy another, but only keep it until the warranty expired.
I just found this page and had to add my comments..
My old Blazer (1989 S10 4.3V6) was great!! at 175,000 it still was doing 24-25 on the highway and 20 average around
town! Yet when I bought my newer 99 Blazer, I thought I was getting a better vehicle!! NOT!!!
The gas mileage sucks... (less than 21 on the highway if that and about 16-17 in town)...its now at 77,000 and BOTH front wheel bearings have gone bad... NOW reading some of the stories above made me want to comment..
1) Sears store swore my Ball Joints were bad... gave me an estimate of over $500 to repair..
2) Firestone store told me the balljoints needed replacing... so did some tie rods and one linkage rod...
AND (get this) my bearings needed "repacking" probably...
(this was BEFORE I found out they are sealed!)..total estimate was $700
3) A shop a coworker recommended told me they could do the bearings (costs was $487 each... labor to change them was $129)...then a bunch more stuff under the hood.. total est? $2,200!!!
And finally,
4) Chevy dealer next to my office just today took a look at it... found NOTHING wrong with the linkage or gear box..the
only thing they mentioned was the bearings... quoted me LESS than shop #3 above (about 400 each)...total was less than
$1000 total to install them!!
HMMMMM so far the DEALER is winning... though I will likely find a Blazer with rear end damage and get the bearings off the front... and change them myself if I can... then trade it in on a Montero Sport or similar... bye bye Chevy... nice knowing ya...
Chris
Houston.
I have a 1998 Blazer w/50,000 on it. I have had the ball joints replaced, the right front wheel bearing (and I have had a loud clunk ever since), the alternator replaced, and now the rear wiper has gone bad. Liked the car when I first got it, but I sure can't wait to get rid of it.
I have a 1998 Chevy blazer 2dr 2wd, can't find a hub and bearing assembly anywhere for under 500.00 at the dealer, no regular auto parts store carries this particular item all they have is the assembly for 4wd which is made different in the fact that it has grooves in the center for axle support. Anyone know where I can find this part without going to a dealer.
After reading the above comments, I had to add my experience. I have a '99 Blazer with only 56,000 miles. I have the same sporadic electric window failure as many others. Then, yesterday, I noticed that the battery light was on. On my way to having it checked out, I noticed that the entire dashboard had lost power. The turn signal became very dimly lit and then the Air Conditioning fan became intermittent and finally shut down. However, it did not stop there. Next, I noticed that I could barely accelorate, and when I did I felt a knocking in the floorboard. As I was literally pulling into my drive way, it finally died completely and I was not able to restart it. I spoke to the dealership and they told me it was a bad alternator. Hoping to save a couple of bucks, I asked if the voltage regulator just needed to be replaced. The mechanic told me that the voltage regulator was located inside the alternator now and they would have to replace the whole thing. I now see the big picture--make expensive autoparts so they encompass cheaper parts so that a fortune is made every time. Isn't capitalism great!
Posted earlier:
2nd Jul 2003, 13:03 I have a 1998 Chevy blazer 2dr 2wd, can't find a hub and bearing assembly anywhere for under 500.00 at the dealer, no regular auto parts store carries this particular item all they have is the assembly for 4wd which is made different in the fact that it has grooves in the center for axle support. Anyone know where I can find this part without going to a dealer
-----------------------------------------------------------
I found the exact model thanks to another site... the OEM part # was listed... and HiLo found a match on them for $166 or so... (I'm in Houston)...Look at All Data. com http://www.alldatadiy.com.
The OEM part # for the 2WD hub bearing is : 15731627
HiLo or Autozone or anyone else can find it from that!
Good luck... be sure to get the speed sensor (It may be included)! If you email me at wb5itt @ hotmail. com (remove spaces for spammers), I can send you the files directly.
Chris.