1978 Subaru DL from North America - Comments

Replaced: carb - 2; clutch - 1; clutch cable - 4; distributor -1 ; CVJ(L) - 2, (R) - 2; fuel pump - 1; alt. - 1; starter motor - 1; water pump - 2 and hood release cable - 1.

Currently (25/06/99) experiencing electrical problems, ie. - brake and charge warning lights remain on; alternator (new) not charging battery (new); fuel pump not receiving current; and horn works intermittently.

The vehicle was purchased new - 28/07/78. It currently has 489,756 miles. The engine is original and has NEVER been rebuilt. After the break-in oil (7K miles), AMSOIL 10W30(synthetic) and advanced oil and air filtration has been in place. Other then replacing the above, this car has been FANTASTIC.

This car has been driven on four continents. Burns a qt. of oil approx. 750 miles and avg. 32 MPG (with a/c) on the highway.

In the process of restoring to original.

Would appreciate any electrical advice.

bioint@syspac.com

Electrical systems are a little tricky on these-I have learned with my junkers a few basic, but seemingly important items on the Subarus-Make sure your alternator body is grounded through the bolts to the motor-dirty bolts made mine act freaky. Use ohm meter from alt to motor and get good reading

Also, the frame must be grounded to battery- that itty bitty skinny wire that does this had to be changed on BOTH my subs to make all lights, radios, etc. work right. My exp. sez subarus tend to have grounding issues.

Also, ya might make sure the fusible links are carrying enough amperage-this problem actually made the lights flicker and dim on my sons subaru. Hope this helps!

I worked at Subaru when these were new cars... Your voltage regulator is bad. There is a diode integrated into the wiring that powers the fuel pump ONLY if the engine is

running. This is a safety feature to keep the gas from being pumped onto the street in the event of an accident. The down side is that when the regulator fails, the fuel pump also stops.

Nothing to add in the way of tech -- the alternator/fuel pump interconnection is clever and reliable; if everything is working OK.

Great car. My first at 16. Drove it like a rally car all over Apache Trail just outside of Apache Junction, AZ. Did all the dirt run in 44 minutes -- averaged 30 mph. Anyone who has been on this road knows what this means...

I killed this car with adrenaline and enthusiasm. Dead by 18.

Remarkable it lasted that long :o)

Marcus Thompson

I've had my suby since 2001, and the following has been done since then:

*Second hand engine (original had 320,000km on it when it blew a head gasket)

*Installed a twin barrell webber carby to increase performance

*Blew the head gasket in 2nd engine after dyno tuning.

*Fixed head gasket

*Replaced hydraulic lifters (noisiest I've ever heard!)

*New alternator

*New water pump

*Recondition radiator

*Cut out and repair lots of rust under original cargo rack on roof.

*Bypass heater coil after it blew (water under carpet in floor..) $650 to replace it!!!

*Re-do all suspension (every shocky was blown)

*About to replace ALL bushes as some are down to bare metal.

*New battery (3rd so far-big sound system)

*Replaced indicator stalk, lights wouldn't turn off.

Anyway, I think that basically the design of these cars was great, however some things just didn't work. The EA82 is a slug and if pushed too hard it will die. For anyone wanting a quick power gain, a twin barrell carby works well, but chews up petrol. (Make sure to get it dyno tuned).

The wiring has caused me endless problems.

The main thing to remember about these cars (especially young drivers) is that they were not built for performance! Don't push them too hard and they should be OK.

Finally, if they are going to put A/C in a car, they should really make sure that its powerful enough to not stall when its on!!

The 78 DL was a great first vehicle to me for $30. Otherwise it was going to be scrapped because of countless rust holes in the body. I drove this from 93 to 97 and needing only new front brakes, a rotor and throw-out bearing. The 1.6 engine ran great only needing lifter adjustments and new ignition points. The car was as lite weight as they get and not having A/C would easily get 39 to 41 MPG on the highway. Toward the end of its life, I once ended up racing a mid 80's GL which being front wheel drive caused the body to tear and separate at the front door jam area (major rust problems creeping up). It was difficult to explain why I had to lift the doors up to get them to close after this. A year later rust finished it off and I watched it go down the road on the flatbed. Best luck on the restoration.

If anyone is interested I am selling my father's 1978 Subaru DL, with 72,000 original miles. My father purchased the car from a friend who's relative lost his ability to drive only shortly after purchasing. He storied it in a barn until my father found it about 5 years ago. The car is in great condition with only a few spots of rust (I can forward pictures to anyone interested). The car does however need a new clutch, battery, and speedometer fixed (it is stuck on 35 mph). I am located in Sarasota, FL. I am building a new house and want the storage, any reasonable offer will be considered. If you have any questions or would like pictures please contact me at gyson1aw@hotmail.com.