Comments: 1-15, 16-27
Where should I start? Service engine soon light won't turn off unless you unplug the battery. Dealer says nothing is wrong.
Air bag light won't turn off unless you cut the wire behind the dash, again dealer says nothing is wrong.
Wipers work when they want too.
Transmission shifts extremely hard between 1st and 2nd gear after it has been driven for a while (20 minutes or more)
The truck will die for no reason at stoplights, when it is first started, just driving at highway speeds, yet according to dealer there is nothing wrong with it, apparently all vehicles do this!
Goes through brake pads like there is no tomorrow, I have had them replaced at different garages 3 times.
Rear window rattles non stop.
New ball joints at 75k.
It seems to have plenty of power to tow and just general driving, when running!
Interior is laid out very nice, but it is not worth the headache.
Dear Mr. Owner:
I have been through the same problem, between 1st and 2nd shift, after driving on the highways. This problem is related to the computer, since after disconnecting it, blazer start to operate as soft as it start new. Anyway, this is a big problem, once you start to have it, it seems like the engine would brake in two.
Please, if anybody knows another way to solve this, I would appreaciate it. Thanks.-
Gustavo.
I have had a 1997 Blazer LS for only two months now, and it has also begun to stop running at red lights, drive-thru windows, and is extremely hard to crank. It does this about 50% of the time that I drive it... no one seems to know how to repair it! My wipers also NEVER work correctly. Can anyone please help me?
I have had this hard shifting between 1st and 2nd since around 77000. It only does it during warm weather. When I took it to the garage to have it inspected to see what the problem was the computer didn't "hold" the codes in memory like it's supposed to, so that was a wasted 30 bucks.
I finally took it to Auto Zone when the light was on and found out it was a code P1870. Of course that was a "manufacturer specific code" and they couldn't help me, but they were angels for even having such a free service!
From what I can read on line it's a major transmission problem that requires rebuilding! I'm calling the garage again tomorrow with the code I received today and hopefully the extra warranty that I bought when I bought the vehicle (at 76000) will still be in effect and will cover it! I'm now at 106000, and it came with 3 yr or 36000 (just like a new car warranty) mile warranty.
If anyone else has solved this problem please let me know. Here is my email address: snight@adelphia.net.
Thanks.
Smiles.
Bobi.
I have a 97 LS. Dying at stop lights and rough idle was being caused by a leaking power brake booster. This creates a vacuum leak in the engine. If yours has a problem you should hear a hissing noise around master cylinder. I had mine replaced with a rebuilt one, around 250$ and it completely solved the problem.
I have a 1997 LT Blazer and I just bought it in August of 2002. Everyone keeps telling me they have really good engines and will last forever if you take care of them. The blazer has a lot of highway milages because I bought it from a 1 owner. I had problems with the wipers, but they replaced the motor for free. It just started dying on me at stop lights yesterday, but it starts back up just fine. I'm really frustrated because nobody can tell me what's wrong with it. We think it may be the fuel pump, but nobody knows and it will cost around 800.00 if it is. We don't want to get this done until we know if that's exactly what it is. If I would known this was going to do this I would have stuck with my Hondas. I have never had any problems with those cars. We changed the fuel filter because apparently you have to change those every 6 months. I did not know that. Does anyone have some advice?? I've wasted so much MONEY for people just looking for the problem!!!
I know I'm posting this months after the request, but better late than never, and I hope somebody else will get some use out of it. There's a valve (not sure what the proper name is) associated with the 1st to 2nd shift that becomes oblong after repeated use (heat is also a factor). GM replaced it with a more reliable part in about 2000, but replacing this will cure any rough shifts from 1st to 2nd. The job cost me $119 at AAMCO.
I have a 1997 GM Jimmy with 112,000 miles. The vehicle has had several of the problems posted on the site. In 2002 the vehicle would shut off for a moment while running down the road and sometimes while stopped. The culprit was worn contacts in the ignition switch. The part cost about $115 from GM.
For the past several months the transmission has begun to shift hard from first to second and slip some in overdrive. When this occurs the check engine soon light illuminates. The code found is P1870. From what I have found in some of GM's service manuals, it means the transmission is slipping due to the valve body not fully shifting allowing torque converter lockup. The computer senses the slip in overdrive and tries to compensate by applying more pressure to the pressure plate. This causes the hard shift in the lower gears. GM service center quoted a price that would not exceed $500 to change out the valve body with one that is beefier and more reliable.
I have a 1997 LS with only the stalling problem it has 70,000 miles on it. I've replaced the alt, battery, fuel pump, fuel filter, crankshaft sensor, pick up coil, module, still dies going down the road. No codes are ever set. I'am really leaning on the key switch being the problem, any suggestions? This has already gotten personal know!
I purchased a 97 blazer a few weeks ago at the auto auction.
It too has/had the phantom dying problem. Just rolling down the road it has died suddenly. So far I have replaced the fuel filter and this has improved the problem greatly. The way I understand it is that the CPI injection unit on this vehicle requires a rather high fuel pressure to operate (>55 PSI). Once the pressure drops below ~50 PSI the injector just fails and the truck dies. Fixes that are on the way are (in order...
Replacement of the Fuel Pressure regulator... when the diaphragm on the regulator gets old and develops even a slight crack/pinhole, it can allow the fuel pressure to drop below the threshold. A telltale sign of the pressure regulator going bad is poor gas mileage, and when a pressure gauge is hooked up to the system, it will show a gradual drop in fuel pressure when the ignition switch is turned off.
If that doesn't fix it, then the fuel pump is next. What I may do if that comes to pass is try to acquire an aftermarket high pressure pump and craft together an apparatus to mount it into the tank and do away with the very expensive replacement pump... (>$300 for the pump before R&R)...The pump is the same pump that is in my '92 suburban that costs ~$38... I have heard that the ignition wiring harness is prone to failure... (A possibility)... And ultimately there might be a computer problem here also... possibly Microsoft was responsible for the programming???
As for the other problems with alternators, water pumps, idler arms, brake pads, air conditioning clutches... these are items that frequently fail in all cars. They are not unique to the blazer, in fact many of these items interchange with many other GM models and years.
I will say that I am disappointed with Chevrolet, A past strong point with GM autos was parts interchangeability. Apparently they are doing away with this aspect. Also, the electronic control of the automatic transmission is a bad idea, As long as the sensors and the computer are good, the thing works well, but just one sensor malfunction and the whole thing screws up.
Good luck to all.
My 97 blazer fuel gauge not working always shows full when I'm really empty. replaced the sensor in the fuel tank 2 times.still still on full. any ideas how to find the real problem what to do. so frustrated. write me at otis368@yahoo.com thanks larry. 6/20/04
I have had a couple of the problems with my 97 s10 blazer LS that others have described.
The problem with the wipers is easily fixed. The problem is a small circuit board that controls the wiper speed. I replaced it myself, very easy. Cost was about $16 from auto parts store.
It is located against the firewall on the driver side, just under the hood. There is a black cover protecting it, remove a couple screws and its off.
I had the crazy shifting problem, but when a diagnostic computer was connected, it would give many different errors. The problem was the ignition switch was worn. $300 to get it replaced.
My fuel gage quit working about 60k miles. I had to replace teh fuel pump, which is in the gas tank, because the fuel level sensor and the pump are all one unit. You cannot purchase just the sensor. Pump was $350. I replaced it myself. Not a terribly difficult job, but you will need friends help. NO special tools needed. Make sure you take is emty or nearly empty.
From Steve in Albuquerque New Mexico
I own a 97 Olds Bravada, I bought it with around 101,000 miles on it. Not too long after I bought it I noticed that it started to run a little fowl, and got progressively worse. Then I noticed that riding down the highway the locks would unlock and then lock. Sometimes, but not all of the time, it would cut off at a stop light, but would start right back up. I knew the end was coming when I would turn the key and no power would be sent to electrical system. Diagnosis: The wiring harness right behind the ignition went bad, a very, very common problem with this style Blazer, Jimmy, Bravada. I got the harness from U. S Distributing in Albuquerque NM (my town) (1-800-351-0060) for a ridiculously good price, had a friend install, all for under $100. My fuel gage went bad (just as above) but my Bravada has the info center that tells me gas used, and is accurate within.2 gallons each time I refill. I have to say I like this Bravada a lot, I am getting over 19 MPG with mixed city/highway driving. All of the complaints stated above are true of most all new vehicles, SUVs even more so because of the platform. I accept my Bravada as used and smile every month I don't have to make a car payment, and plan to do things to bring her up to new car status in near future. Oh, experienced the hard shift on one occasion in stop and go mid summer high heat conditions. $19.99 transmission service and she is smooth as silk.
I also have had these problems out of my blazer. My windshield fluid won't work unless there is frost on the windows. The transmission slips and won't go into gear until it warms up.
I, too, have a 97 Blazer LS that's been cutting out on me or revving hard. After being told that I will need to have my transmission rebuilt... my car was returned! I was told instead that I am in electrical fail safe mode. I was sent to the dealership... ARRRGGGHHH (Holy high prices, Batman)! Wish me luck... but this is a problem... do they recall and fix vehicles as old as ours?
I have a Blazer 1997...Well same problems... (dying for no reasons, the problem was the Battery terminals and the cable to it..) also the slipping and hard shift from 1 to 2. Brake pads (one got stuck and red hot) and wipers don't work all the time...