Seat belts stopped retracting (Driver and rear passenger on driver's side) --$100 plus to fix.
CD player now "eats" CDs and won't eject them until several day's later, at random. I have not fixed this--now avoid CDs in this car.
Fuel pressure regulator went out at 35k miles--engine flooded as a result, and platinum tipped spark plugs had to be replaced. This was a $400+ repair.
Lower manifold now leaks (spots) which is not a problem, except it is frustrating as these gaskets should last longer and the dealer wants over $1500 to fix, b/c they have to take everything apart to get to the gaskets.
A/C compressor dieseled and finally went out at 50k miles (which is not a lot of driving--this repair was over $600.
The keyless entry feature broke, and key fobs are expensive (over $50).I replaced these at 40k miles.
Traction control turns on and off by itself randomly--I did not fix this, but the bright orange "Traction Control Off" light in capital letters in the center of the display above the speedometer is annoying.
Replaced front struts twice, and rear shocks once--have only driven on paved suburban roads and interstates for the most part. The dealer did not believe me until they test drove the car, which was frustrating. Well over $1000 in suspension issues (including labor) as a result.
First set of Eagle GA tires were bald by 35k miles. The only other car which uses the 235/60/16s (according to Goodyear) is the Grand Cherokee, so they are not cheap, nor plentiful ($800 or so for a set, installed--although a lot cheaper if you do-it-yourself).
Something in the front end is loose.
The plastic front spoiler broke off in freezing weather. Other plastic parts have broken during the winter, which sounds reasonable except we live in Virginia which is not that cold.
The power of this car, and the motor itself, is strong and smooth.
The gas mileage is not bad (about 22 in city driving and 25 highway) for a car like this which weighs 4400 lbs.
Having to fill it up with premium gas is expensive, but the gas mileage still makes it better than a lot of cars and most SUVs.
The handling and ride are horrible compared to the straight ahead power. The car behaves in emergency situations, yet is hard to drive in a straight line as there is a lot of play in the magnetic assisted steering and the spring and shock rates are tuned way too soft--which is made worse by what is a very stiff chassis. So the combination is a soft ride combined with teeth chattering vibrations and body noise over concrete roads, bridges, and anything resembling a small pothole.
Poor Steven, I totally sympathize! I have the same year and model and have had many of the same troubles. The worst part about this car is the ride is so comfortable and pleasant yet the maintenance kills you. Right now I have an oil leak that is so hard to get to that the engine and tranny would have to come out! 15 hours labor to fix an oil leak? Or if not, suffer with the awful smell of burning oil in the air vents. A/C compressor died, but I can forgive that on a GM with over 100K miles. And I am starting to get the traction control on-off without my consent happening now, too! Glad to know I'm not the only one. Such a shame this pretty and luxurious car turned out to be such a dog to fix.
Traction control light coming on when it is not suppose to is indication of computer problem. On this year there is a defective electrical design that lets the alternator damage the computers. I had a non GM mechanic diagnose and he had to drive the car with test equipment attached to find that the alternator was causing problems.
See my earlier posting. Document problems including getting your car warranty services records print out from GM dealer. GM has problem that they have not solved. I have posted two sites to report the problems. If everyone that has or is having the problems reports to the Gov. web site, they can force a recall to actually get a fix since these involve safety issues. I am on 3rd alternator in about 20,000 miles 3rd main computer and dealer just called and said the replacement they just put in is defective.
The car only has 70,000 miles.
I am trying to build data basis of those having problems, please e-mail me at donnapaca@aol.com.
I like my 1995 olds aurora, but within 6 months I have had to replace the radiator tank, found out that the "EGR" valve needs replacing and now my transmission is going bad. I was told that I needed to have the B-shift solenoid replaced, whatever that is. The car also has an oil leak which was a problem that I knew nothing of until after I had already bought the car, and I still have water leaking somewhere.
The car is pretty and has a great engine, but so expensive to maintain. Oh, did I mention that I spent almost 400.00 getting spark plugs and wires replaced? This was actually a discount, since the original quote was 500.00!
My 95 aurora is a wonderful car, so I thought. It costs so much to get it fixed. It costs 1300 just to fix the motor mounts. My seat belts in the back don't work anymore. This car looks good, but is a pain in the butt to fix. Overall it's not worth all the money that you have to put into the car.
My Traction Control light comes on and off on it's own and I just paid 600 dollars for an air compressor, but my air still doesn't work in my 95 aurora!! Can anyone help me???
I have a 97 Aurora with 93,000 miles and have had none of the problems listed above. I think with any vehicle a select few will have problems, I guess.
I'm having a small problem right now with the suspension on the front left of the car, but we do a lot of driving on country roads, etc., so I'm not necessarily surprised (but was googling for which part I needed to replace and found your website...).
All in all, I think this car is awesome. All our systems are up and running perfectly, and all with little maintenance other than my changing the oil and filters, etc.
If I had *any* complaint, it would be that gas prices are so darn high that it costs a bunch to fill the tank. But that's a small price to pay.
Our Aurora rocks. :)
Well, it will again after I replace that bushing or whatever the problem is... ;)
I just got back from watching my 96 Olds Aurora burn up on the side of the road. This is not a joke, I had a bogging effect in the acceleration and I watched my fuel gauge move from 3/4 of a tank to empty. I pulled over and opened the hood, smoke was pouring out of the car and I called 911. The fire dept. came and the electrical system was going nuts, so I watched them smash my windows to get in to the car, take an axe to the hood and completely destroy the car. I did not even know about any recall and someone stopped by and gave me the info. How do I proceed and find out if my car is included? I would appreciate any responses. dtanis@earthlink.net.
I just purchased a used 96 olds aurora in clean, 125,000 mile condition. It sure has a lot of power and more options than I am used to. I bought it knowing it had an oil leak and that the traction control light stays on. What are some solutions to the lite?
I understand it costs $1000 to fix the oil leak. Where would the oil be coming from? Do you know more specifics about what is leaking and why? thanks for your reply.
By the way, the luxury features are worth some of the things I have read above. Andy.
I own two 95 Auroras. One has just under 86k and the other has 196k. Both have been GREAT cars. If I really have a complaint it would be the seat belt issue which has been re-called and the sensor in the trans which is a $28 part and a $1400 labor cost to fix. Other than that, the car with 196k needs motor mounts and a ECM unit (the brain) and I am trying to decide if I am going to fix it? I really love the car, but it is worth more as parts then complete. If anyone knows where I can find the motor mounts I would buy them and install myself. Can someone help me find the stinking parts?? (other than the dealer) I would hate to retire the car when it still runs so good! Email at magfam@pacifier.com
Thanks!
Steve Magnolia.
What a bummer, all the complaints above I had also with my '95 Aurora. At an ODO of 93K I finally traded it in for $2000 bucks. Friend of mine who is a mechanic told me to get rid of it before it hits the 100K - the engine starts to fail after that pretty soon.
The oil leaking issue seem to be a chronically one, I thought I was the only one. My Aurora used almost as much oil as it did on gas! Not to mention all the stains every morning in the drive way. What a mess!
Traction control light on, well, I've been there. My light went on after I went out to get my engine washed (oil was all over that poor thing) when suddenly the light went on - forever! The dealer said it was a short on the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) inside the Traction Control/ABS Module. The connector wasn't sealing well and water protruded into the module. A new module was going to cost over $1,000. What do you think? Absolutely right, I was driving around with no traction control and simply over taped the darn light with black electrical tape. If you don't know it, you don't see it - certainly the used car dealer did not see it (humor, humor).
There are many other things that went wrong, too long to list them all.
Well, now I'm driving a 2000 Toyota 4Runner Limited. What a great SUV! This must have been a safe choice after reading all the good comments on this great site regarding Toyota in general.
Final verdict (mine at least) : Get rid of the Aurora! For some good reasons GM got rid of the entire OLDS line, so why would I stick to a loser? Even if I wouldn't care about money, reliability of this car stinks! You never know on which lonely highway you'll camp next!
Have a good one and see you all at the next Toyota dealer :o)
My '96 Aurora has many of the problems listed above, including traction light problems, anti-lock brake light staying on, and service engine light staying on as well. I had to replace the Radiator due to a crack in the plastic causing a leak. Oil leaked for about a year, then seemed to fix itself. My CD player also doesn't work. The most annoying problem is the electrical issues! I have replaced the module that controls all the inside lamps and the tail lamps 4 times now. Each time they seem to burn out causing the lights not to work at night. A major problem! these modules cost me $170 a pop and never seem to last. Anyone else have this problem?? How do I fix this issue??
Love the car's appearance and performance. However, recently, especially on warm days, the engine gets overheated (about 220) and then the oil pressure drops to 5 psi when idling at a light or in slow traffic, causing the alarm to sound. Even a slight increase in revs raises the oil pressure to good levels. The local mechanics can't duplicate the condition when I put it in the shop and the dealer has no answer for me. I have a new radiator (about 1 1/2 years ago) Anyone have a clue for me?
"Love the car's appearance and performance. However, recently, especially on warm days, the engine gets overheated (about 220) and then the oil pressure drops to 5 psi when idling at a light or in slow traffic, causing the alarm to sound. Even a slight increase in revs raises the oil pressure to good levels. The local mechanics can't duplicate the condition when I put it in the shop and the dealer has no answer for me. I have a new radiator (about 1 1/2 years ago) Anyone have a clue for me?"
- Guesses: Bad Thermostat. Needs flushing & fresh coolant.
Bad water pump. Slipping water pump drive belt. Fans not turning on.
Handling is terrific if you have the Autobahn package on the car. Only problem is the factory Michelin MXV P235/60VR16's are terrible in snow.
I have a "baby" '96 with only 73000 km (45300 miles) on the clock so far. Actually looking to replace the factory rubber this year, and all I know is that I definitely don't want Michelins, and I generally buy that brand.
I Have a 1996 Aurora with the same problems. I did have the oil leak fixed without pulling the motor or transmission. All the nuts come off the oil pan except one. You can make a socket to fit it. GM has come out with a oil pan sealant that replaces the old oil pan gasket. It hasn't leaked since. My aurora had the same oil pressure problem, ran at 5 psi and 220 on the engine temperature. I switched to a synthetic oil and the oil pressure been fine since. It still runs around 220.