1988 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer from North America - Comments

Comments: 1-15, 16-18

10th Feb 2000, 19:37

What things have gone wrong with the car?

I bought my Cherokee @ about 135,000 miles in November '99. I have since put about 4-5K miles on it.

The only thing that needed replacing was the starter and that was cheap because AMC used very generic parts.

All it needs now is some suspension work (Previous owner spun it into a curb).

General comments?

I love it! The Jeep is at about 135K miles and doesn't drive like it's a mile over 70K.

The comfort, control, and economy is excellent. I definitely recommend one if you are looking for an older modern SUV.


10th Mar 2001, 21:37

I am just buying a 1988 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer and I know I'll love it. It has 170,000 miles on it, but it sure drives like 80,000! This review has just given me that last bit of persuasion.

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12th Apr 2001, 22:57

In April of 2000 I bought one with 195,000 miles on it. Since then I have crossed the 200,000 mile mark and have had no problems. My friend recently purchased a '97 Blazer and my old Jeep outperforms, and to be honest, puts his new car to shame. You could never convince me to buy a vehicle that isn't a Jeep. Ever.

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2nd May 2001, 22:27

Just purchased a Jeep cherokee pioneer '85 and it sure out performs my dads Bronko 2 in stability in corners, comfort, and hill climbing under all conditions.

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10th May 2001, 19:37

I'm the guy who wrote the original comment. I've had the Cherokee for a year and a half now and have had some more work done...

At the beginning of last summer, I had to replace the engine in a freak incident; I was on my way to San Antonio when I noticed that the acceleration was a little sluggish; by the time I was on the interstate for about twenty minutes (cruising at 80MPH) I saw that my back window was dark and grimey. Concerned, I checked my gauges again and saw that my temperature shot way past red-line, and my oil pressure dropped to nil. I would've stopped then and there, but I had my mom in the car and had to find an exit for her sake. The next exit was half a mile away, and even then the exit ramp was the steepest hill you've ever seen. I drove the rest of the way to the exit @ 45MPH and climbed the hill to the stop sign and got a little misty when I heard my Jeep sputter to a stall.

An autopsy on the engine revealed that my o-rings melted, and I had a combination of oil and water in my cylinders. This is a prime example of how you need to maintain your engine as much as possible; a simple oil treatment may have been able to stall these results to a time when I would've been able to detect my O-ring situation and get my cylinders rebuilt.

In doing research, I discovered that Jeep (Cherokee) engines from 1986-1991 (maybe even earlier) had a higher frequency of problems because of the simple lack of a radiator cap. From what I recall, I heard something to the effect that when the water level drops below the level of the hose in the reservoir, it allows air in the hose which collects in the radiator; and somehow that air makes it's way to the engine as it expands and you eventually end up with a cracked engine block.

Moral to that story: Always check your fluid levels, and when possible, get a radiator with a cap (or at least a relief valve)

Other than that, I've replaced a fuel pump (engine compartment as opposed to the other one in the fuel tank) and a fuel injector.

I'm taking my Jeep with me as I move out of state for a while, and it's going to run forever!

I still reccomend Jeep all the way.

My Jeep now has 155,322 Miles and counting...

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30th Jul 2001, 15:20

Just purchased a 1988 Jeep Cherokee and when I got it.. there's oil leaking from the engine... cleaned the engine and found out that leak is coming out from the oil cover. Purchased a new one which has a rubber seal and no more leaks. PVC elbow is cracked, but sealed it with a sealant until I get it replaced. Checked the air filter and there's oil in the air filter..

Other than that.. this Jeep runs pretty good at 155,000+ miles...

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10th Jan 2003, 13:00

I have a 1988 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer I got it with 187,000 on the ticker and I am now at over 212,000 miles. It has a good tick at idle from the valve train and it knocks from time to time at idle. But those things I do not consider a problem, because it runs and runs well. I do have to replace the fuel pump in a week, but I consider it a pretty minor thing considering it has 212K on the car.

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4th Feb 2003, 19:36

I bought My 87 Cherokee Chief about 3 years ago. It had 105,000 miles on it when I bought it, and it now has about 200,000 on it. I have only had a few small problems that I was able to fix myself for fairly cheap. My first problem was my fuel rail & injector o-rings had to be replaced-Due to wear they started to crack and leak. Second was I had to replace my water pump. I love my Jeep and have had fun with it. It runs just as good as it did when I bought it. Now it's lifted 8" with lockers, a winch and other goodies. I'm planning a Rubicon trip later this year. Now that's impressive-a little over 200,000 miles and still climbing just as strong!

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9th May 2003, 21:01

I own an 1986 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer and could never give it up it has 166,000 miles.

I have had many problems with this Jeep though. I had to replace the engine within 2 months of buying, I replaced the transmission, the clutch, brakes and also the carburetor.

I would recommend doing some research on the Jeep if it was made before 1989. I have heard of lots of problems, but there are many out there just like mine with no problems. I just didn't so any research of my particular Jeep.

But I would give it up if I had to when it runs it runs like a beauty.

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7th Oct 2003, 21:17

I have been wanting a jeep "cherokee" ever since my parents have brought 2 of them home and run them on the mail route. Even they have said they won't be caught driving anything else. I am going to school and am trying to get out of my 86 ford pickup truck to save money on gas. Last week I saw a 1988 jeep pioneer on the side of the road for sale. We stopped and looked at it very close and checked all the fluids and all the mechanical specs on it, it was in over all excellent shape. It had 190,000 miles on it, but drove like my parents new SUV. We are definitely going to get it after all of the good things we have heard about them on this site, and the good luck my parents have had with them in the past... THANK YOU!!

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7th Apr 2004, 09:09

Hello again, I am the student that bought a 1988 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer and let me say it was the best used auto purchase we have ever made. I still cannot believe how good it runs considering how old it is and that it has 198thousand miles on it. I have had a few minor problems with it. The first to go was the water pump, then I had to replace three of the fuel injectors and the rest of the injector seals, by the way it is a 4.0,6 cylinder. Now that it is getting hot again I am noticing that the a/c isn't cooling like it did when I bought it, and finally the worst problem of the all, which isn't that bad, is the main seal has gone out between the transmission and the engine. Despite these few problems I would recommend the purchase of one of these jeeps to anyone who is looking for their first ride or someone who needs a reliable vehicle to travel in.. Thanks Again.

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23rd Jun 2004, 15:51

To the student experiencing AC problems: If a mechanic has checked the most obvious things without results, ask about the expansion valve a.k.a. H-block. It can clog up and cause big problems. I found a new one for $40.00 and its not hard to install.

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20th Jul 2004, 22:00

We bought an 88 Pioneer for $500.00. It Drove rough when we first got it. The previous owner lost the keys and while taking the Steering colum apart to change ignitions he broke some parts and lost others. It had a full 360 degree tilt steering. After we fixed that the clutch started going. It had to be pumped between every gear. Then it overheated on the way home from work. Changed the Thermostat, that didn't help. Changed the waterpump, that didn't help. They defroster turns from hot to cold to hot when on full heat. That is our current Project. We fixed the clutch finally. There is a set of hoses from the fill tank for the radiator. It had a T like connection. That is broken and we can't seem to find one. Also the PCV valve is bad. The Airfilter fills with oil. Can't find a fresh air intake hose for it either. It does run like a champ we have used it for mild rock crawling. She has over 225,000 miles on her, and was not taken care of in the 3 years prior to us buying it. So we have expected to have to make repairs.

I Love it and can't see myself ever getting rid of it.

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17th Aug 2004, 12:50

To those experiencing problems with oil in the air filter... I had this problem with my Cherokee as well. While researching some other problems I ran across an article talking about the CCV system. The CCV system is the two lines that come out from the top of the valve cover. Pull the lines, clean them with whatever you find suitable (I sprayed throttle body cleaner through mine and then swung them around the yard to get as much fluid as I could out so it didn't destroy the rubber). My clog was in the small elbow at the rear of the valve cover. After that was cleaned my oil problem ceased and I also haven't been seeing that small bit of blowby when you pull off the front of the two hookups. Before this fix I had a small amount of smoke in the valve cover there.

Anyway, bought my Jeep for $500, 120K miles and she's a blast, when she runs, right now I am trying to resolve an issue with either fuel or heat, she justs shuts off when she gets warm, let her sit and she fires back up for a few, hood up seems to idle forever... sounds more like heat, but acts like it is flooding...we'll see, have fun to the rest of those Jeepers out there!!

Jason.

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23rd Jan 2005, 12:58

To the gentleman with the over heating problem,

This is most often a problem in high mileage engines when they start to lose correct timing. Please check the timing gears belts chains etc. I have replaced a water pump, Radiator, Fan and Clutch, only to break the timing chain a few weeks later. I learned the hard way.

To the gentleman with the engine dieing seems like it is hot.

This is a common symptom for a failing fuel pump. Adding a small purolator electric pump to the fuel line at any place safe and convent is the easiest solution.

I am looking at A Pioneer currently for sale that has been donated to the local Salvation Army. They are asking $1300.00 I do not know the year yet. The body and interior appear to be in good condition and after reading the postings here I am very encouraged. I will be going to school about 350 miles away from my home for a year and need to be able to get back on the weekends to see my wife and children. This is not a trip I want to make in my 1976 Corvette. Thanks you all.

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10th Feb 2005, 18:54

For all of you that have a pre 1992 Jeep Cherokee with 4.0 Ltr 6cyl engine. I have the solution to your cooling system problems

The stock Pre 92 system is a closed system with no radiator cap and complicated plumbing for the heater core and the coolant expansion tank.

The problem with the system, as I'm sure your already aware.

1. The coolant expands and blows out of the expansion tank cap with no place for it to recover from.

2. The electric coolant fan switch is in a bad location and rarely turns on the fan when needed because of constant coolant loss leaving the sender un-exposed to coolant, and its location in the radiator is a cold spot because of the design of the radiator.

Remove the original radiator and replace it with a Modine NAPA # 2802 or equivalent. This radiator is listed for a 1992 Jeep Cherokee. This radiator is an open system exact fit and has a radiator cap/fill neck. All hoses and transmission lines will connect in the same place. This radiator does not have a provision for the fan switch (I will get to this).

The proper radiator cap for this unit is NAPA #705-1445.

Remove the water outlet (thermostat housing) and replace it with the housing from a 1993 4.0 6 cyl Cherokee. This is a dealer or auto recyceler item. This housing is an exact fit with all of the hose positions in the same place. In addition this housing has a hole tapped into it for the 1993 temp gauge sending unit. This is were you will mount a Fan switch to replace the one that was on the origional radiator. This new switch location has better heat transfer to the switch so the electric fan will cycle more frequently thus resluting in better cooling.

Since you have the housing off this is a good time to replace the thermostat.

You will need a Fan switch. I used NAPA # FS113, and the proper connecter to this switch is NAPA # FSC10. This will turn on the fan between 207-220 degrees. The origional radiator mounted switch activated at 230 degrees. As mentioned earlyer the new fan switch mounts in the 1993 thermostat housing.

The switch is a single pole switch with one wire and switches to ground so you will have to use a head light/horn relay to connect it to your original fan wires.

1. Run the new fan switch wire to the ground terminal of the relay.

2. Carfully cut off the original wires with plug from the original radiator mounted fan switch. Cut them off at the switch side so you have the plug with the wires attached. The yellow wire is +12V and the black wire goes to the original fan relay. Connect the wires with plug to the switched (load = yellow, output= black) terminals of the relay. Since the yellow wire is hot +12v when the ignition is on use this wire (make a jumper to connect to the + side of the relay) to power (activate) the relay.

Recap step 2. Yellow wire goes to relay + (positive) and relay load terminals. Black wire goes to relay output terminal. Fan switch goes to relay - (minus /ground) terminal.

3. Remove all heater hoses, coolant expansion tank and mount, metal y-pipes, and heater valve if your model has one. Be carfull not to break the plastic vacume line attached to the heater valve as it can become brittle.

4. Install heater valve NAPA #660-1174. This valve has 4 connections. Looking at the valve from the opposite side from the vacume switch with the curved end of the valve facing upward you will see one connection facing forward, two connections facing back and one facing at a 45 degree angle facing towards you. On the bottom angled connection run a 5/8" heater hose to the thermostat housing. On the single connection on the front run 5/8" heater hose to the water pump. Connect the two rear facing connections to the top and bottom connections of the heater core. Connect the vacume line that was connected to your old valve to the connection on the new one.

5. Purchase an after market coolant recovery tank and mount it in the hole were the old coolant expansion tank/mount was removed from.

6. Run a 5/16 fuel line or equivalant from the expansion tank to the fitting just below the radiator cap.

7. Fill cooling system using standard methods and precautions.

Parts list. I used NAPA auto parts as a source so all part numbers are NAPA numbers. These are standard replacement parts and can be purchased from any after market or dealer source.

1. Modine Radiator # 2802 for 1992 Jeep Cherokee.

2. Radiator cap #705-1445.

3. Coolant Fan Switch # FS113.

4. Fan Temp Switch Connector # FSC10.

5. Heater Valve # 660-1174.

6. Water outlet from 1993 Jeep Cherokee (dealer only or auto recycler).

7. Standard 30amp Headlight/Horn Relay.

8. 8' 5/8" Heater Hose.

9. 10' 5/16 Fuel line.

10. Teflon tape or equivalant thread sealant for Fan switch threads.

11. Small roll of 12 gauge wire.

12. Small package of 1/4" spade connecters to connect wires to relay terminals.

13. Small package of butt connectors to connect fan switch to wire going to relay.

14. Two gallons of Antifreeze/Coolant.

You will now have a standard open cooling system like every other car on the road. No more will you be stuck on the side of the road with an over-heated Jeep as the result of running out of coolant because of the Renult designed closed cooling system. When you add coolant to the new system you will know that your radiator is full because you fill the radiator now, and you now have an overflow tank that will return the expanded coolant into the radiator when it cools down (just like every other car on the road.

This conversion takes about three or four hours depending on your abilitys. Show this list to any radiator shop and they will know what to do if you're not a do-it-yourselfer.

The bottom line... This conversion will cost you about $350 to $400, about the same as replacing the origional components, but with the benifit of no more problems and the insurance of not overheating and causing expensive engine damage.

Happy Jeepin' "

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