Comments: 1-15, 16-24
New torque converter installed.
Both head seals replaced.
Rear diff seal replaced.
Power steering leaks.
Transmission fluid leaks.
Engine stalls - intermittently.
Windows rattle when half down.
Air conditioner stopped conditioning!
Left hand drive shaft needed replacing.
Transmission shifts erratically.
The Escape looks like it has the goods, but unfortunately it's all show and no go. Under the facade of its great looks and macho image is a car that offers very little value for money. Its transmission and engine are exceedingly noisy and the quality of the interior is woeful. The transmission is just plain BAD and the engine very thirsty. I made a mistake buying the Escape now I want to ESCAPE the ESCAPE!!
I also have a Ford Escape (Manual Transmission XLS) and I have also been disappointed about the purchase.
I have the following problems:
1) Excessive Brake Dust
2) Truck shakes when it's in first or second gear
3) Clutch plate has been replaced twice
4) Stick Shift has problems, some times I cannot put the car in gear.
This has been my first brand new car purchase and it has been a bad experience.
I own a 2003 Ford Escape, XLT, Loaded. Brake dust is excessive, but in reality, its fast, handles great, and the V^ has plenty of highway passing power to get you through. We have had no problems yet.
I have a Ford Escape 2001, the problems are:
- The plastic fly wheel for the engine tension belt melted resulting in sudden stalling of the electrical system with immediate loss of power steering, power window, horn, radio etc., clearly a very dangerous situation to be in.
- The air conditioner is not cold when the car is running at higher speed, for example: above 30km/h, but cooling is perfect when the engine is idling.
I have a 2001 Ford Escape XLT. The transmission went with only 46,900.I am trying to get Ford to help me pay some of the $2,500.00 that it is costing me. So far no luck. I also had to have the ignition switch replaced. I love the Escape, but now with the mounting bills, I feel that I have made a serious mistake in buying it.cleojac@aol.com.
I bought a 2001 Ford Escape last year (2004). It was certified preowned, so I felt pretty good about the condition it was in. It had about 45,000 miles on it when I bought it. One of the things I noticed when I first bought it was that around 40 mph, the car would shake and rumble like I was driving over rumble strips. When I brought the car in for an oil change, I asked about this and was told it could be the 4 wheel drive automatically engaging. Why it would engage over 40 mph, I didn't know because I know you aren't suppose to drive in 4 wheel drive above 40 mph. Every time I brought the car in for service, I mentioned this problem and was always told that they test drove it and it didn't do it for them, blah, blah, blah. Finally, just last week, the check engine light came on. I again told them about this rumbling problem and when the service writer realized my car was almost out of warranty, he said it could be the transmission. First time in a year that someone indicated to me that I may have a transmission problem. They fixed what caused the check engine light to go and told me if that service didn't fix the rumbling too, to bring the car back. It didn't fix it, so I made an appointment for their transmission tech to take a test ride with me. I arrived at my appointment time and was told that the tech said he didn't need to ride with me: my transmission never had service (flush and refill) and that it was "fatigued transmission fluid" causing my problem. I hit the roof and asked to speak to the service manager. Tomorrow, the service manager is personally going to take a test drive with me to evaluate the problem and has agreed to provide me with a rental car at his cost until my car is fixed.
I should mention that I am a 39 year old woman, with a class A license and over 250,000 miles under my belt driving tractor trailers and more than 20 years driving cars. It has been my experience that service writers and mechanics do not take women seriously when they present with car problems. If my husband had been with me, I know someone would have taken a test drive with him.
I own a 2001 XLS and had the gearbox shudder also. However as the last reviewer pointed out that her transmission specialist said it was fatigued transmission oil, he was quite correct. Ford have a technical service bulletin dealing with this common gearbox shudder. Not only does it require a flush of the transmission oil, it also involves a re-flash of the ECU (electronic control Unit) to give the transmission a new change strategy to prevent it from happening again. After this was done to mine I have had no problems and love my Escape.
I have a 2001 XLT. In two and a half years I've had the following problems:
1. a recall for seat belt malfunction.
2. a recall for master computer malfunctions.
3. replaced sway bar links on both front sides; driver's side was replaced and about a year later passenger side had same problem (loud clunking noise while driving, especially over bumps)
4. brake boosters replaced (brakes were hissing)
5. ignition cylinder replaced (key would not go into the ignition)
6. loses brake fluid pretty regularly.
Might have been a mistake getting the Escape...
Re: 2001 Ford Escape XLT owners.
Tip #1: For the mechanically inclined, the Haynes Repair Manual, in conjunction with the Ford Owner's Manual, are excellent references for performing most periodic maintenance and unscheduled repairs.
Transmission Experience- The transmission shuddering that most owners notice as the vehicle is accelerating in the range of 37-42 mph might be attributable to faulty engineering or less likely fatigued transmission fluid. If the transmission shudder reoccurs after flushing and refilling the transmission, then the problem is most likely mechanical. Seems that the transmission will not gracefully shift to the next gear, rather it occurs suddenly and noticeably as if someone rammed the vehicle from behind.
2001 Ford Escape (XLT) with 54,9k miles, I have been driving her since 2003 when purchased she had 11k. At first no problems great little truck, I kept the oil changed and even 2 tune-ups; then it happened coil-packs...First the # 5 with an oil change was $500; Then coil pack # 6 almost $600.
On a trip the engine light started blinking, the truck began slowing down losing power the RPM gauge didn't move as I tried to accelerate finally stopping, coil pack # 3out, the Ford dealer wanted almost $900 I found a shop that did it for $442 and its still not running correctlyit shakes and rumbles as of this day. How do I handle this coil pack problem? Anyone else having trouble like this?
It started a few weeks ago... on hot California days that are over 95 and 100 degrees. At slow speeds, generally when turning into parking spaces or anywhere you have to turn, (lights, driveway, etc.) Behind the steering wheel, there's a grinding rumble and you can feel it behind both pedals and on the drivers floor boards. Dealer replaced two bearing plates in the suspension for $50 each plus 4-5 hours or labor. But the car is still making the noise. It's very intermittent and generally appears after hot afternoons in traffic on the way home from work, or on weekends running errands in the afternoon sun where the car is driven and stays warm because it sits in the sun. I can't recreate the problem in the mornings when it's cool out or on cooler days. This is the first major thing wrong and my car is now at 105,000 miles. Any one else heard of similar problems? It's had several services, lots of tires, and regular oil changes. Dealer says he can't recreate the problem long enough to know what to fix. Suggestions welcome!
I have a 2004 Ford Escape with approximately 60K. I've got a problem with getting the car to start from time to time. It'll start up fine in the mornings, but by mid-day, restarting becomes a challenge, and sometimes takes 20 minutes at a time waiting (what for, I don't know) then it will start. Engine tested, alternator and starter as well, all said to be fine. I was told that if it was a coil pack then the car would shut down altogether at times, but this has never happened. But everyday I have a problem at some point starting the vehicle. I lose about 20-30 minutes of my life dealing with it. Any similar problems? Suggestions? Thanks.
PS-Firestone nor another automobile repair shop could recreate the problem.
I also own a 2001 Ford Escape XLS. For 2 years now (and only intermittently) the engine shudders. The engine light is on and previously its said "Ignition Coil Pack A". What does this mean exactly??? I just spent $471 getting a new computer, and another $484 having spark plugs/wires, transmission flush/fill and oil change. While it was in the shop they drove it and couldn't figure out what was wrong. Also, the engine light was on when it got there, 2 days later, it automatically went out. I got it back again after the shop said they couldn't replicate the shudder and its doing it again. After the shudder started again, I shut off the engine to fuel up, cranked it up again -- engine light is back on! Of course, when I take it back, they won't be able to replicate it. The Escape has 107,000 miles on it, cruise control died and the radiator light is on - constantly. Anyone else having these kinds of problems?
I own a 2004 Ford Escape XLT 2 Wheel Drive.
I have recently encountered a situation where the air conditioner, when "sweating" is pouring on a portion of my exhaust (steel woven section). Besides the crackling, it appears to do little to no damage now, however, I AM concerned about any long term effects.
When I stop the vehicle, it pours down quite a bit which also has me worried about the water pump...
Anyone else able to chime in on this situation?
I also have a Ford Escape, 2001, the first model. At 29,000 miles the transmission was replaced and I have not had any problems till recently. I have a problem with getting it started. I have had a mechanic look at it and he said that it may be the key, he could not find any other problems. I am taking it to the ford dealership tomorrow, but I am concerned that they will try to get money out of me. PLease help. If anyone has any advise please email me.
Marvinetteh@comcast.net.
I have a 2001 Escape. I had issues with the car taking a while to start as well - it turns out it was the IAC Valve. Two weeks later, my transmission died as I was driving it. Apparently, the transmission on this car is a piece of crap. The mechanic that rebuilt mine told me to flush it every year - if you're not already doing that, I highly suggest it - the job cost me 3300 due to the fact that it's difficult to reach the transmission. As much as I love my car, I won't be buying an Escape ever again. : (