1989 Chevrolet Beretta GT from North America - Comments

Comments: 1-15, 16

10th Apr 2000, 20:25

What things have gone wrong with the car?

Since it is an 11 year old car we've had to replace the fuel pump, starter and the a/c is broken.

We have never been able to figure out this one - if you are driving on the highway at a high speed for a long period of time and then need to stop (for a toll for example) the car shuts off. It turns right back on but we were never able to find the cause.

General comments?

This car has been very reliable. I love the pick up, it's great getting on to a parkway. My biggest complaint is the way the paint has chipped and the interior seems to be falling apart.


29th Nov 2000, 11:21

I am writing in response to the owner who says something about after driving at highway speeds the car will just shut off then start back up. Well there is no need to really worry because it could be (usually) one of two things, the computer is faulty or (for some odd reason) the idle isn't really what it should be. Like I said, no need to worry.

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24th Dec 2000, 15:44

In reference to the problem with your car stalling after stopping on a highway trip, we had the same problem with a Cavalier with the same engine. GM had a monumental problem with the torque coverter clutch solenoid at that vintage. My GM dealer repaired it, parts & labor were $231.00. My Chevy service advisor knew what the problem was even before they looked at it. Great service!!

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2nd Jan 2001, 15:42

I would like to add that I had the same problem a month ago and the governor chip went bad. It would start to cut out now and then on a highway trip around 75mph during a 30 minute trip.

I had Robkey check this and the guy pointed out the governor in the diagnostics test bypassed the computer. I grabbed a whole computer for $20. It fixed the problem and improved performance because the computer screwed with the electric timing of the injectors and the transmission shifting. I would give it a try if you haven't already fixed it, you can save some big money.

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27th Aug 2001, 23:32

I have a 90 Beretta GT and had a problem with the lockup converter not unlocking when I would decelerate from highway speeds. The car would just act like you tried to stop a standard car without disengaging the clutch and kill the engine. Just unplugged the wires that controlled that and now... no problems. I am very happy with my Beretta. In fact I'm confident in it enough to now start warming it up a bit. Maybe a higher flow exhaust and intake system. Throttle body upgrades would be nice. Hmmmmmmm. Maybe.

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28th Jan 2002, 13:46

I have a 92 Beretta. I've had that same transmission problem. Before I heard about that solenoid. I went ahead and changed the starter, alternator, battery, and reset the computer. After that it runs like a new car and I've had no problems with the car. GOOD CAR!!!

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4th Oct 2002, 21:45

The problem of the car stalling after highway speeds sounds just like a problem I had, which turned out to be the torque converter clutch (TCC) lock-up solenoid. Although you can unplug its electrical connector to "fix" the problem, I wouldn't recommend leaving it that way, since it disengages the overdrive, and causes extra wear and tear on the transmission. I was able to buy a new solenoid for about $50. If you have a tachometer, you can tap the brakes while driving at highway speeds, and the RPM should increase by about 200 if the solenoid is functioning properly and disengages. If there's no change in RPM, then your solenoid is probably at fault.

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16th Dec 2002, 04:36

Hoe do you change the Torque Converter Clutch solenoid?

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22nd Dec 2002, 23:02

I have a 1989 Corsica 2.8 V-6 and after driving the car a little while ill start to brake and the oil pressure gage will drop to 0 and the car will stall out. If I'm coming to a stop, but don't stop and gain momentum again the gage will go back up and be fine. Its really weird Has anyone else had a problem like this and what can I do to fix it? any suggestions will help thank.

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30th Dec 2002, 04:02

I have a '92 GT. Always been reliable and gotten me home, even after accidents I've caused to the body and suspension through the years.

The last year has gotten a bit more costly, it has 125k miles on the original engine and transmission. This year, I've needed a new radiator, CV joints, front struts and back shocks. That isn't too bad with the age, but just when I got four new tires on it, it started to do this:

After I drive for about 20-40 minutes, it starts to sound like the gears are 'grinding'. If I push it, it'll start to lag the battery and stall when I slow down to idle speeds. If I back off when the grind starts, it seems 'OK' for a bit until it grinds again. It has great pick up still, gears shift smoothly... any ideas? Is it simply a TCC, is the computer going? I really don't want to spend 1400$ on a new transmission, so any ideas would be great! Thanks a lot everyone!

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13th May 2003, 08:52

I Have a 1993 chevy beretta and after the engine gets hot it begins to sputter and stall at lights and when the wheel is cut all the way. I heard something about a "Stall Solenoid" or possibly called a "lock-up soelnoid". I heard that disconnecting this thing will allow my car to run good again where is this thing located if someone has any information it will be appreciated please email me at jdidda@yahoo.com thanks.

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21st May 2003, 15:50

I've got a 1989 beretta 2.8l. I had that tcc lock up problem after exiting the freeway. I continue to drive, but the other day it stalled out on the city street after going only 40 mph. I got it towed home, and it started up after a few tries the next day and ran fine. The next day I drove it and it shut down again and now it will not start at all. Please help!

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6th Jan 2004, 11:25

I have a 1988 Beretta GT with the 2.8 v-6 and the only problems that I have really had were minor electrical problems such as sensors going out. My car had a weird idle and that changed when I replaced the oxygen sensor, after that it ran great for about six months and before it warms up it will idle at about 1500 RPMs and hold steady oil pressure, but after it warms up the tachometer will fall to about 900 RPMs while idling and when the RPMs fall so does the oil pressure I have pinpointed the oil pressure problem to the oil sending unit, but have no clue what could be causing the erratic idle as I have replaced the MAF, MAP, and oxygen sensors, but my Beretta stays strong even with the minor problems and is far from slow. I have fallen in love with the car and plan on buying another one.

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7th Sep 2004, 14:27

I've read a lot about the 'shut down' problem with Berettas and I am experiencing the same problem. However, I've noticed many solutions to this problem. Does anyone know what the main problem is and how to fix it? I was almost rear ended a few times because the car stalled at red lights. I have a 1989 Beretta automactic 4 cylinder. No air conditioning and power windows.

Please respond to: Tay

jamesbrown715@hotmail.com.

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31st Mar 2005, 18:59

Now that we know that the TCC is the problem does any know where it is and how to change it out?

I would appreciate any help. Please email me at nivlak_yar@msn.com, please put "TCC" somewhere in the subject line.

Thank you.

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7th Jun 2005, 23:02

I too need need to find out where its located and how to change it.

Crashedking@netscape.net.

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