- While still under warranty, speedometer and tachometer would not operate smoothly after driving vehicle on extended trips. On second trip to dealer, I was informed that a build-up of heat under the dash was causing the speedometer and tachometer motor shafts to bind. Dash was removed and a cooling fan installed at no cost - problem fixed.
- Driveshaft factory U-joints replaced
at about 40,000 miles. The sealed-for-life units were totally dry when they were taken out. Replacement greasable joints were installed, and the rear joint required replacement at 70,000 miles. I bought a grease gun with a special tip just to keep after the U-joints, and grease them twice a year.
- Upper passenger and lower driver ball
joints replaced at 60,000 miles, cost $300. Constant greasing required to maintain these. I lowered the vehicle 2" front and rear at 110,000 miles, and installed new upper and lower ball joints all around.
- Clutch wore out at 80,000 miles. The transmisson is a New Venture 5-speed, used only in the 1994 & 1995 models.
Ball stud used for clutch pivot fork exhibited wear, and I was informed at the dealership that a service bulletin had been issued. A greasable replacement stud would be required, and I brought the transmission in to have a grease fitting and stud installed at a cost of $200. Master and slave clutch
cylinders also replaced at this time.
Total cost around $500 do-it-yourself.
- EGR valve went out at 90,000 miles; there was a recall out to replace these units if they failed under 75,000 miles. Mine failed beyond the recall limit and cost $300 at dealership. TOMCO makes a screened gasket which keeps the carbon buildup down in the manifold and not in the valve. I have just purchased this gasket for $12.00 and intend to install and maintain it myself.
- Oil cooling hoses to radiator broke at 100,000 miles in January 2001, which were replaced at dealership for $350.
- Gas tank and sending unit replaced at
110,000 miles. A plastic shield at the
front of the tank caused moisture and road salt to collect, rusting out the front of the tank. I painted the replacement tank before installation, and drilled weep holes in the plastic shield to allow moisture to escape. Cost $400 do-it-yourself.
- This vehicle is my first pickup, and has required much more maintenance and repair than I ever would have reasonably anticipated. I have done much of the work myself, and the vehicle has never been used for heavy towing.
- The vehicle still looks good, and I would like to drive it another five years. I think that most of the driveline, suspension, and underhood problems have already been taken care of, so just maybe it will last that long. When I replace the vehicle, I will be looking at a full-size model from Ford or possibly Chevy, and not another small pickup.
Since submitting the previous history of repairs, I have had more work done to the vehicle:
- A second replacement EGR valve was put in the vehicle
at about 135k. I put a gasket with a screen to capture
the carbon and keep it out of the valve. The screen
requires cleaning every 12k.
- New alternator at 135k.
- Rusted brake lines and fuel line replaced at about
140k.
- Rear axle seals replaced at 140k.
- The driver's side rear cab lower panel has rusted
through after 10 years of driving in Michigan winters.
The vehicle now has 144k, and I am still hoping to get 180k, or 15 years, of service out of the vehicle, whichever comes first. There are many new parts which are still reliable. There is a lot of rust under the vehicle at this time.
My '95 S10 4.3L pickup has gone through 3 fuel pumps, 1 fuel sending unit (rusted out), and is now sitting in the driveway because the crimp on the oil line hose to the radiator decided to fail. The oil sprayed onto the fan, making diagnosis difficult until I removed the fan and the crankshaft pulley.
On the plus side, the engine still has plenty of power at 115k miles, and starts right up provided the fuel pump can deliver the proper fuel pressure. Read the Chevy Blazer forum for more information about the oil lines blowing.
Update to this vehicle: I still have this same S-10 with 170K, and in the past 2 years I have performed only routine maintenance to the vehicle. It actually has been running reliably with lots of new parts over the years. Still, lots of rust under the vehicle, and I will need to replace the front brake lines and front fuel lines soon. I should hit my target mileage of 180K sometime next year, and then I'll decide if it is worth making further repairs.
Update to same vehicle, just turned 180K. Last fall 2007, I let the interval between oil changes go to 5K miles (normally I change at 3K since I drive short distances), and it developed a valve lifter noise on start up. I cleared this up with synthetic oil and Marvel Mystery Oil in both the oil and the fuel - this stuff really cleared it up. Also was getting a front end vibration on the highway, and went with completely new tie rods, center link, idler arm for about $100, and an alignment for $75. Put in new Champion platinum plugs (no unusual deposits on old plugs) for about $20, with a noticeable increase in power. Replaced the fuel line coming out of the fuel filter for about $20. I am optimistic that this vehicle should go another 40-50K with just regular maintenance.
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