Comments: 1-15, 16-17
Relatively nothing.
The engine has been fully rebuilt, although the transmission is the original, with no work done to it. When tightening the head bolts for the 1000km service the mechanic (who normally works on Volvos and who I had to pay to complete this service for me for warranty purposes) encountered a little trouble getting the rocker cover gasket to seal properly. The original F5A engine had a plain rocker cover gasket with no tabs or any description to secure it in place. Unless properly attached with some sort of gasket sealant and given plenty of time to cure, the gasket has a tendency to buckle inwards and leak oil over the inlet and exhaust manifold. Later revisions of the engine had 6 slots cut into the rocker cover so that moulded tabs in the gasket could ensure it does not buckle inward. I simply chased up a later model gasket and ground the slots into my rocker cover - problem solved.
Aside from that slight irritation, everything has, and still is, running beautifully. :)
This is not a car that I would recommend to anybody with any large interest in comfort and performance. However, for those of you who are interested in a real head turner and aren't phased by a mildly rough ride, then this could be the car for you.
I have driven many cars ranging from European to Asian, off-roader's and strictly street cars, and I can safely say that I have never felt a greater joy driving any of them than I have felt in my Suzuki Hatch.
As a city commuter I find the car is perfect. Yes, it IS slow to accelerate, particularly if you drive the 2-speed Automatic, as I do. Providing you are driving on relatively flat terrain, however, the car keeps up admirably given it's huge power disadvantage, with good cruising potential at and around 85km/h. Long trips can be a little bit of a hassle - I'm generally not prepared to drive mine any faster than 90km/h on the highway as it is inefficient and fairly hard on the car.
But getting away from the more mundane driving patterns we all know, the hatch can be a bucket of fun on tight city streets. The cornering potential of the car is great, and when driving on tight roads it can feel a lot faster than it really is. The standard brakes are impressive, too, as if they are in good condition they can easily lock the wheels at high speeds and handle a fair bit of braking before you start to suffer from fade. One should always bear in mind, though, that this is dependant on the pads your car is running. You are best to get your discs re-machined if they have any grooves in them, and then fit performance pads like the Bendix Metal King or similiar.
I love this car, and I would recommend a drive to anybody who is interested in a little bit of fun. The hatch often receives extremely harsh reviews for its rough ride, lack of power, and build quality, but the majority of these reviewers, I feel, are lacking perspective. Consider the fact that, brand new, the car sold for only $6000AU in Australia in 1983. The engine is under a hell of a lot of stress to try and push the weight of the car and its passengers, and given the abuse they receive, they are incredibly reliable. The average life of the engine is about 150,00kms, but we must remember that this is with your average driver, who never warms the car up correctly, runs poor quality motor oil and fuel, and more than likely never does a service until they have breached 10,000kms.
My advice to you, should you acquire a Hatch is:
* Do a complete rebuild of the engine the first chance that you get.
* Run the engine in on a good quality mineral-based, non-friction modified oil for the first 1000kms.
* From your 1000km service onwards, never run anything, but pure synthetic motor and transmission oils. I personally prefer Mobil 1 5W-50. People get the dirts when they see the price of the oil, but remember that your sump has a capacity of under 2.5 Litres. I work in automotive retail and I am able to acquire Mobil 1 @ $40AU a bottle, when then works out to only be $20 an oil change: less than the cost of a much lower grade premium mineral oil in your average car.
* ALWAYS change your oil and oil filter at 5000kms. Even synthetic motor oil starts to break down at around 4000-4500kms. Most oil filters start to clog at 4000kms, too. NEVER go 10,000kms without changing your oil and filters.
* Always run brand-name fuels like BP, Shell & Mobil. NEVER run discount fuels. Come on, you can afford it in a car that only costs $20AU to fill!
* Always allow the car to idle 1-2 minutes before you commence driving on a cold start - the majority of your engine wear occurs in the first 15 minutes, don't be at all tempted to blat it!
* Pamper the car STUPID and I guarantee it will provide you with nothing, but satisfaction and memories that you will cherish. These are wonderful little cars that are often misunderstood, and with just a little bit of understanding, you too can enjoy this kind of relationship with one of the quirkier cars to drive on our roads. :)
Love this guys work. I rememeber being beaten in my stripped '71 Corolla by a Suzuki 800 hatch. I didn't see which way he went. By the way, I currently drive a Suzuki Baleno after Alfa's and Rover's...
Bought a 500 hatch in 1995, around 120000km on clock. Change oil every 4000km and have done another 105000km since buying. 100% reliable, uses no oil, relined brakes at 200000km replacing master cylinder and wheel cylinders at same time. Wish all my cars had been that good. Missus gives it a hard time, but it just seems to run better. Mine is a 1982 500cc manual, 50+ mpg and fun to drive.
I also run a 1983 800 Hatch and being a mechanic by trade I would go broke if I had a sole business to repair them. Its been said before, but if you change the oil and filter at 5000km intervals the engine life is as near to forever as you can get. In Australia folks seem to take off the exhaust manifold hot spot tube to the air cleaner and then wonder why the engine slows down in cold condition driving due to the carb icing up. Or leave off the 12volt coil feed wire from the starter motor to the coil and wonder why it is hard to fire up when cold. The 500cc engine is a no no in my book for Australia. To slow, noisy, and pulling revs that can melt steel as my metal waste bin bears mute witness. Oh, one more thing. To improve the tall gearing (and they need it) fit large aspect ratio 12 inch tyres and get the speedo re calibrated at the same time or you end up by being around 7kph faster than indicated. That's doing 80kph and really doing 87kph. Happy micro motoring.
I picked up a 543cc example of the 84 Suzuki Hatch for a song, (complete with a spare 800 auto hatch that the previous owner had intended to transplant the engine from, but never had got around to it) The list of faults that came with the car turned out to be just a lack of knowledge of ‘how to’ and a day saw the car legally back on the road.
I too had intended to transplant the 800 but a month with this delight of a motor stopped any thoughts of that. I cannot claim that this will be everybody’s idea of good, but this car for me is the most fun you can have with clothes on!
The car came with 105,000k’s on the clock…it now has 117,000. It was nimble before I detected a leaking head gasket, now it flies (for a 500). While I had the head off I measured the bores and the specs are within tolerance for an original engine…no rebuild needed yet!
It happily cruises at 85kph, will go to 110kph if pushed hard, without too much fuss (but yes, the engine gets very busy), uses no oil and returns 55 mpg on a bad day. It corners almost as well as a mini and stops, with its standard drums all round, as quickly as I ask.
It had a few spots of rust from poor hygiene, but nothing that an hour with a MIG welder couldn’t fix.
I collect micro cars, and have what the Australian motor industry calls a luxury vehicle (the Holden Calais), but the hatch is my vehicle of choice for day to day living. It parks on a 5 cent piece, uses next to no fuel, causes people to smile when they pass-or-get-passed and runs as sweetly as a sewing machine.
If any one is put off by the diminutive engine, don’t be- but be realistic; just remember Big M comes in bigger containers! The Fiat 500 is now a cult car and this little Suzi might just be the next. My only complaint is that it is a bugger to work on if you are not blessed with little hands and a high pain threshold.
But a word to agree with the other comments. In my experience with 7 Suzuki’s; change the oil AND the filter every 5000ks or you won’t get the full life expectancy or the reliability; Oils cheap, Suzi components aren’t.
I had a 82 543cc hatch it was great fun to drive with the choke out which made it sound like a rotary reverse donuts were awesome to do the car lacked on a lot of power, but all my mates and I had a great time in the old girl the poor breaks where harsh barley had any it was very noisy to drive at 80kmh the engine was just screaming its little head off it could go faster, but it would start to overheat rapidly the temperature gauge went up faster than the spedo I would own one again for the fun it was to drive did great handbrake's around corners too.
Hey everyone
i have just discovered the Suzuki hatch.!!!WHAT A BEAST!!! I'm close to getting my L's and need a first car and what better then a Suzuki hatch. could someone please tell me more about them and send me some pics at lachlanboard@hotmail.com (inside and out) that would be greatly appreciated thanks.
Hey I am a 14yr male soon yet to inherit a Suzuki F8B Hatchback with 51,000 original kms. Anyway I am stuck because I cannot find specifications, road reviews, modification and performace parts and of course general info about the car. This car I'm inheriting is very important to me as I have tinkered and rebuilt it with with my uncle, but never driven it nor has he lol. so he gave it to me and with my upmost respect I want to keep this thing alive aslong as I can so if you can help me it would be much appericiated.
Hey I am a 14yr male soon yet to inherit a Suzuki F8B Hatchback with 51,000 original kilometres. Anyway I am stuck because I cannot find specifications, road reviews, modification and performace parts and of course general info about the car. This car I'm inheriting is very important to me as I have tinkered and rebuilt it with with my uncle, but never driven it nor has he lol. so he gave it to me and with my upmost respect I want to keep this thing alive aslong as I can so if you can help me it would be much appericiated.
My email is Looks_Are_Deciving@hotmail.com.
When I first met my fiance she had an 82 zuki hatch, but got rid of it. now we're trying to find another, but its really hard to find even the most beat up of specimens that anyone is willing to sell. We've been doing the usual trading-post and ebay searches, but where is a good place to find quality suzuki hatches for sale?
My 1982 Suzuki Hatch has got to be the most basic of cars. No air-con, no power steering, no power assisted braking. But its this simplicity that makes it such a good car. With a mass of just under 600 kilos who needs power steering or the brakes. The 543cc engine is as reliable as the come and with no complicated fuel or ignition systems, it is a breeze to work on. Keep the ignition IE. Points Rotor Plugs etc in good order and she starts perfectly. Let's face it. This car will never break speed records or produce astounding power, but it will get you to work and back every day. With today's fuel prices! She's a sure winner with a full tank for $20AUD. I don't recommend this car for freeway use as stated by others. It is best suited for city diving, paper rounds, pizza delivery etc. I bought mine with 76000K's and had to change the clutch at 98000. Easiest clutch I've ever changed! You can pull out the whole transmission out of the engine bay by hand. The Hatch may not be as popular as their cousin the Mighty Boy. But if you want something a little different. For a relatively small amount of money, put some alloy rims on your hatch, spruce up the paint work and you'll have a real head turner. One downside is that parts are getting a little harder to find. But if you surf the net a bit you can find plenty of hints and tips for engine transplants for Mighty Boys. The hatch and Mighty Boy are mechanically identical.
I just bought a 1982 suzuki hatch for $1200 with RWC 12 month reg, and with 27,300kms on the clock. At first I was suspicious that it had been rewound back, but then I found out that it still has the original tyres on which it rolled in to Australia. The cars interior is original and spotless with no wear marks, even on the vinyl floor. The outside has a few small dents and after a cut and polish the paind is stunning. Being 20 years old myself I can't say that this car is a babe magnet, but it sure turns heads everywhere I go. I plan to put slightly bigger tires for better grip as I tend to take corners at 50km. Other than that ill keep it original and in perfect condition...
I am a mechanic by trade, and when I just starting out, I had a red Suzuki Hatch 800 84 model. Payed only $400 with roadworthy certificate. I have since scrapped it, but have owned many since. I seem to find more problems with hatches of the square headlight/ bone coloured dashboards models from 1983 - 84, The round headlight/ black dashboard models were the best ones, with different electrical systems. I still have my most favourable one, a 1982 yellow 800, as factory was a 2sp automatic, but I converted it to the 4sp manual. I still have loads of spares, I also have a reliable source for parts if I don't have a part. I do disagree with the reviews stating they are only for city use and not highway use. Over a few years, I used to travel to and from Brisbane and Sydney, (a 1000km one way trip) with no problems, that was however back when petrol was at 89.5c/litre in Brisbane, could get to Sydney on $35 single way. I have and had it well maintained, and to this very day, it sits in my garage unregistered, as reliable as it was new, waiting for the day to see a new registration label.
My father bought an 83 Hatch 800 manual when I was 14 and this was the car my sister and I learnt to drive in.
The car was incredibly reliable and no amount of hard driving and bad roads could kill it. It was faster in a race than any other cars up to the 1.6 litre mark and I could easily chirp it into 3rd gear. Cruising all day at 120kph interstate was not a prob and top speed was 140kph. Many times my friends and I tried to see how many people could fit inside, about 6. In the 12 years he owned it the only repairs needed were repacking of the CV joints and a clutch. To this day it is the most reliable and fun car I have ever driven.
And cheapest!
Me and my partner just got a 84 800 hatch, and it runs great. Does anyone know if they all blow a bit of smoke when you first start them till they warm up a bit? That is the only problem I've had with it.
If anyone has a service manual that they are willing to part with for a good price, then drop me a line at a.j.l.1984@hotmail.com
I have an 800cc 1983 Hatch, plus several wrecks (for spares).
It is hilarious to drive as I am 6'3" (190cm) and weigh 14.5 stone (95Kg) and everywhere I go people can't believe how I fit in (and out) of the thing. It has 170,000 Km genuine kms on the original engine, and uses no oil between changes.
I do have the workshop manual for the 1983 800cc Mighty Boy, (on CD). This is mechanically the same car, well, cut your hatch of behind the seats and it is the same car!
If you want a copy, I'll burn it and post it to you in Australia. I'll trust you to post me $5.00 worth of stamps to cover my cost.
My name is Vinnie, and you can get me on fordprefect1@iprimus.com.au.