Comments: 1-15, 16-22
To date these are the problems I have experienced with the 1999 Ram SLT Laraime extended cab.
10,000 - Replaced Steering Column, clicking when turning - Warranty.
33,000 - Replaced Steering Column - Warranty.
36,000 - Rear Wheel Speen Sensor Replaced, $225+
37,000 - Started burning oil, rear cylinder plugs oil contaminated.
46,000 - Intake manifold gasket replaced. Reference Technical Service Bulletin 18-48-98, Self Repaired $19+ Cheap compared to the $583 for my 1998 Ram.
60,000 - Randomly quits running over a two-week period. Gages goes to "0" and then pulses. Engine turns over, but will not start. Problem isolated to connector at ignition switch. Self Repaired.
64,000 - Experiencing a Differential problem now. Sometimes the truck shutters when turning left or right and a popping noise present when backing uphill.
How many others are experiencing differential problems.
I have a 1999 dodge van full size-i have had the rear end rebuild three time in 80.000 miles the last costing me $1800 dollors.larry.
I have a 1999 Dodge Ram SLT extended cab 5.9L with the tow package. I have had the usual backing up sounds from the differential (there is a TSB (#?) about the problem, but Dodge says the problem won't damage anything). Just recently after having the lower ball joints replaced at 76,000 miles the differential has started making a whining noise that sounds like it's gear-related, not a bearing squeal. It doesn't seem to get louder at speed; it speeds up at higher driving speeds with no change in pitch during gear changes. I am interested in finding out what is causing this problem. My friend at work has a 1997 Dodge model like mine and he says it has had the same differential whine ever since he's owned it.
I have a 1999 Dodge Ram limited slip differential 91000 miles. I have a whining noise in my Differential. I have replaced the tires and rear axle bearings and seals no sign of metal or contaminates in the gear oil. Tire installer noticed the noise right away said he heard the same noise on a Jeep Cherokee and it was a pinion bearing. I have not verified that though.
I had the same problem with whining in the gears on my 98 Ram quad cab. A friend of mine replaced the bearings in the rear end and showed me the old ones. They were pitted like the metal had not been hardened properly. He is a Chrysler mechanic and claims this is a common problem. Hope this helps..
-Jeff.
I have a 2001 Ram 1500 Quad Long box SLT +. Since new, it has had the following problems, most of which have never been resolved.
1. Will not stop in panic situation - Found this to be typical of 4 wheel anti-lock system. Converted to 2 wheel. Problem resolved.
2. No warm air on re-heating of A/C air. This is intermittent, and dealer says there is no problem.
3. Sure - Grip Rear axle shudder / slippage - This only goes away if the fluid is changed every 6-8 K miles. Dealer refuses to fix this, and, I am now looking for a non LS axle.
4. Truck has heavy duty cooling, but, still runs very hot unless outside temp is below 40 degrees. So far, Radiator, Thermostat, Water pump, Cat converter, and engine flush have been done, but still have same problem.
5. Radio changes channels, and / or goes off and on whenever it wants. Radio, Steering controls, and even the wiring harness have been changed. Nothing works.
6. Speedo randomly will not register. Was replaced about a year ago for this problem, and it went away until last month.
Overall, my experience has been very bad for a truck that cost over $34,000. I guess I should have keep my old Plymouth Valiant. May have been 40 years old, but, it never did (in 28 years of ownership) give me any trouble. Next time, I will buy Japan. USA products are not what they used to be!!
I've experienced some similar problems. Here's my list:
At 30,000 miles: Burning oil like crazy. Had intake manifold gasket replaced per TSB???. Had this done at the dealer for 1/2 price which was over $250.
At 50,000 miles: replaced lower and upper ball joints on front passenger side. Also replaced u-joint on that same side. Replaced tie rod end that connects to the steering unit. Replaced track-bar with aftermarket track bar. Did all work myself for about $350.
At 60,000 miles: Found penny size piece of metal in rear diff when changing fluid. Found out it was part of the limited slip clutch pack. Replaced entire pack. Did work myself for about $400. Replaced with Auburn Gear unit.
At 80,000 miles: Clicking problem when turning and slow leak from power steering unit. Plan on replacing either the steering column, pump, or both. Click only seems to happen when weather is cold and it's warming up now. Not sure what to do with this one.
Brakes seem good on the truck, but front rotors warped within the first 10,000 miles. I've left them and the truck has continued to stop well. I get a little lurching on slow stops, but I haven't made a big deal of it. There has been atleast 3 times that I have noticed a delay during an emergency stop. I too attributed this to the anti lock system. Scared me, but I haven't done anything about it.
I own a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 extended cab four wheel drive pick up with a 5.9L/360ci engine. I give this truck a ten on all aspects. The rear end has the small whine when turning hard like you guys have said. But mostly the rear end is locked and spins when turning via the limited slip differential. This truck has pulled cars out of deep muddy ditches on a gravel road no problem. Just lock it in 4H and all four wheels are locked. I purchased this truck with 61,000 and it now has 94,000. engine and drive train is just as strong and performs just as well as when I bought it. mine does not run hot, usually the gage runs just under half. If yours is burning oil then, that may mean you don't let it idle a minute or so before taking of when you first start it. this truck idles low and takes a while for oil to work and get some heat in the engine.
I love this truck.. it serves me well, on or off road. almost a hundred K and running strong.
I bought a 1999 1500 Ram Laraime in September 2003. In just six months I am burning oil like crazy, and I the truck is pulling to the left. I took the truck back to dealer and they said that the alignment was OK. My new driverside tire is worn down. Got any suggestions for what to do?
Thanks.
Disappointed.
I have a '98 Ram 1500 with a 5.2 liter Magnum v-8. It had a roaring sound coming from the rear that got louder as I accelerated up to about 45 where it was really annoying, then would taper off as I accelerated further. Also not much pulling power. Turns out that the pinion seal was damaged which allowed water to enter the outer pinion bearing and pit it badly. I changed the pinion bearings, seals, and also the pinion itself and ring gear, going to a 3.55 gear ratio instead of the 3.22 that it had in it. Also the side carrier bearings on the open differential. This solved both the roar and lack of pulling power, but added about 500 rpm at 70. I did all of it myself at a cost of under $600.
Since I purchased the truck used in 2000, it had a problem of knocking really loudly when accelerating hard or going up hill. I put in a K&N cold air system and a 160 degree thermostat and that stopped that problem. Cost $300, mostly for the K&N which didn't really help. The thermostat made all of the difference.
The truck has 205,000 miles on it and the only other things I've changed are putting a free flow catalytic converter and emissions legal headers on it. Changed the throttle position sensor at 140,000 and a new water pump at 190,000.
Its been a great truck for me and if it dies on me totally tommorrow, I'll be down at the dealership the next day for a new one.
I own a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500. It is at the Dealership right now getting a new rear end. $1300! Of course it is no longer covered under warranty. Many problems with this truck. Had to have the speed sensors replaced ($340). The front dash replaced as it cracked and pieces fell out ($200). The dealer said it was from the Florida heat. I have lived here all my life and never had this problem with my vehicle or anyone I know. The air conditioner leaks fluid. Cannot find the leak so we just put in another can. Running lights no longer work. The cigarette lighter does not work. It does not ride smooth at all. Have had it aligned many times and the tires balanced and within 2 weeks it has a bumpy ride again. This truck is not driven hard. Only about 50 miles per week. I am not happy with this truck. I only have 10 months left on the loan thankfully!
I to own a 1999 Dodge SLT Laramie I just got it last week, this thing drives like a tank not a smooth ride at all.
Its really stiff does anyone know why? and is the anything I can do to smooth it out?
Also the air has leaked down and they also can't find the leak any suggestions.
2001 Ram 1500 Quad cab 5.9 (360). Truck had 71,000 when I purchased it last July (2003). 96,000 now and this is what I have had to do; new front drivers side bearing hub ($170) me doing the work two weeks ago. When I purchased the truck I did the following; new t-stat, plugs, wires, belt, tranny screen and fluid, and new Yokohama tires. Other than that, I put gas in it and drive it. There is a pinging under load or when kicked that my buds at Dodgetalk.com say is the belly-pan gasket under the intake. I will find out this weekend and if needed, make the repair. Overall, I love the Dodge Ram and no other truck on the road is as distinctive or eye catching when dressed up.
My 1999 1500 Ram extended cab long box has developed a long cranking cycle to start. 45k miles. Once started its fine. If shut off and restarted it fires right up. No fuel filter in this truck? People are telling me its in the gas tank. Fuel pump or pressure regulator. $$$$$. Had a 97 and a 95 both with 100k miles and no problems. any insight would be helpful. Thanks. Bonanzadave@charter.net.
I own a 2001 ram 1500 ext cab 4x4 with 19,000 miles on it. I purchased it from an older gentlemen, any way when I hit small bumps in the road I feel and hear a slight rattle in the steering wheel, and I also noticed if I lightly press the brake at the same time I feel the same rattle feedback thru the brake pedal. I am a mechanic and the only thing I have found bad is worn upper ball joints. I can't believe there bad already, but does anyone think this could cause this? I can't figure out how the "rattle" can transmit to both. thanks in advance!
I have a 1998 5.9L Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab. It has been a great truck except for the fact that the rear differential has been making a whining/light grinding sound. My mechanic said he has a friend who had the same problem. This is an expensive fix! Although it hasn't stopped the truck from running it is just annoying. The dealer will charge a fortune to fix it. Can a used differential be found? Thanks.