1999 Dodge Durango SLT from North America - Comments

The original wiper blades had disintegrated by 40,000 miles. I do not live in snow and ice country.

The original tires (Goodyear) had become so noisy by 80,000 miles that conversation in the vehicle was impossible at highway speeds. There was no unusual wear. These were replaced with a standard automobile tire set with a 35,000 mile warranty. The silence was almost unbearable. These tires now have 50,000 miles with no unusual wear.

At 54,000 miles, the camshaft position sensor failed and stranded the family on a rainy night. This was an extraordinarily expensive piece of plastic.

At 64,000 miles, a sudden stream of water appeared running of the water pump shaft. Since there had been no "warning" drips, I investigated with a mirror and flashlight. I found a trail of water coming from underneath the A/C compressor. Then I saw the end of the heater bypass hose. Much work was required to gain access to this $1.00 hose. The replacement hose was twice as thick and braided.

The power steering pump failed at 91,000 miles. Easy, but expensive, replacement. The serpentine belt was replaced at this time due to wear and cracks.

At 92,000 miles the transmission speed sensor failed. Another extraordinarily expensive piece of plastic!

At 96,000 miles, I inspected the rear drum brake shoes. They were 50% worn away.

At 98,000 miles, the Rear Wheel Antilock Brake system sensor on the differential failed. This unit had been failing for some time as my vehicle speedometer would not operate until higher and higher speeds were reached. This also caused rough transmission shifting.

The front brake pads were replaced for the first time at 111,000 miles.

I have also experienced repetitive problems with the front passenger door window drive motor. The gearbox on this unit sticks. A light rap with a small hammer frees it up, but getting to it is a nuisance. A replacement unit requires a home equity loan.

I have had no oil sludge, oil pressure loss or antifreeze problems.

The major concern I had with this vehicle is a safety issue. The Rear Wheel Anti-lock Brake system utilizes a speed pickup on each rear wheel and one on the differential. If the system detects drive shaft motion and a "stopped" wheel, it assumes the brake is locked and releases the brake on that wheel. The fallacy in that is the sensitivity of the speed pickups. The first "panic" stop I had to make in this vehicle was frightening. The right rear wheel locked (as is normal on a rear wheel drive vehicle). I was prepared for that and corrected with the steering wheel. Then the antilock braking system released that wheel and the left rear locked. I was not ready for that and lost control. Fortunately, other drivers avoided my spinning vehicle. The second time, I finally stopped sideways in the oncoming lane. Thankfully, there was no oncoming traffic. The next time I found myself in a ditch. This was enough. I could no longer drive a vehicle that I was afraid to brake. I disconnected the plug for the wiring to the two antilock solenoids. This caused a "Christmas tree" of idiot lights to illuminate in the dash. I installed two one watt resistors on the plug coil connections to fool the circuit continuity checker and the lights extinguished. Several months later, I slid to a stop when another driver in the inside lane decided he wanted to get off the interstate at the exit we just passed. I stayed in my lane, made a lot of tire smoke; but I stopped safely and quickly. I also remembered my high school and college physics courses. Sliding friction is much greater than rolling friction. Detroit seems to have forgotten that.

Would I buy another Durango? Yes. My wife wants one also.

I've never owned any car that didn't have some sort of nagging problem. Despite Detroit's claim that millions of dollars and thousands of man-hours are devoted to vehicle development, one wonders why simple problems that were solved many decades ago continue to reoccur.

As an add-on to my previous comments, I recalled that

Dodge sent me an application for an extended warranty

program before I had 10,000 miles on the vehicle.

They offered to extend my warranty to

10 years/100,000 miles. I had to start paying

immediately, even though the 7 year/70,000 mile

warranty was still in effect. The cost was "only

$383.00 per month".

I responded in writing that if I owned a vehicle

that cost me $383.00 per month in maintenance, I

would own it for one month more!

I cannot believe your upset with your wipers going at 40k\what's wrong with you!

I'm not upset, just aggravated. The replacement wiper blades (TRICO) have now lasted 110,000 miles (4.5 years) and still work well.

Why were such poor quality wiper blades supplied as original equipment?

Now, at 151,000 miles, I suddenly lost oil pressure.

Installed a mechanical gauge along with a new OEM oil

pressure sensor. The new sensor reads between 60 and 70

pounds ALWAYS! Hot, cold, cruising, at idle!

The mechanical gauge gives me numbers I can believe.

Flushed engine with a gallon of kerosene (just soaked

oil pan...didn't start engine). No sludge, just discolored

kerosene. We will see what happens now.

No other problems with oil pressure after the "soak" of the oil pan with kerosene. Engine gets oil pressure before it fires. Hot idle (600 RPM) oil pressure is 25 psi. Running at 60 MPH, 55 psi. Uses a pint between oil changes

(approx. 3500 miles). Now at 163,000 miles.

Finally, the ball joint problem I read so much about has happened to me.

While rotating the tires, I tried to flex the upper ball joint on the passenger side and found about 1/4" of play.

A trip to AutoZone to purchase a new overpriced unit.

Ground 2 of the 3 rivet heads off and cut the third one with a cold chisel. Removed the cotter pin and castellated nut from the joint and separated it. Mounted the new joint with the bolts and self-locking nuts that came with it, greased it with the supplied fitting and put the wheel back on. A week later, the bottom joint began squeaking.

Back to AutoZone for another overpriced unit. The Haynes manual is fortunately incorrect as it shows the lower ball

joint as a pressed-in unit. It is riveted with 4 rivets that have to be counterdrilled to drive them out.

Ordered the drivers side ball joint set from RockAuto at a cost of less than one unit from Autozone. Two and a half hours on a Saturday morning were required to replace both the joints. The realignment of the front end afterwards was the most expensive part of this project.

I wonder when I hear of people paying $600/wheel every 20,000 miles to have this done. My original joints lasted 180,000 miles and did not have grease fittings. Makes me think that 25 cents worth of grease over the last 8 years could have saved these joints.

I just bought a 1999 Durango SLT and the thing runs so good, but the guy that sold it had a cooling problem after a half hour. I live in Arizona. I put in a new water pump, idler pulley and serpentine belt; Voila! very nice. We will see how the rest goes. I will keep you all informed. By the way, the truck has 80,000 miles on it. Good luck; this 4x4 is awesome. Bruce.

I made the original entry in this column. My Durango now has 213,000 miles. Bought a couple of tires recently--oil consumption is now up to a quart between changes. Transmission locked up at 197,000 miles and I paid a repair shop more than I had spent in the previous 8 years of maintenance. Still running the original brake shoes on the rear. Replaced the water pump (100% warranty from AutoZone) at 200,000 miles. Wasn't leaking, but shaft had considerable runout.