Brakes replaced at 39,000.
Key won't go into ignition (twice, and now iginition won't turn at all).
Sometimes, have to turn wheel to insert key fully.
If key flipped to another side, won't go into ignition.
Carbon build-up in engine at 79,000.
First of all, I really like my car. Really. I've only had wear and tear things replaced up to now and have taken my car in for about 3 recalls. However, I've recently had two problems: 1) Carbon build-up in my engine; and 2) A stuck ignition switch.
The carbon build-up happened on my way back from a drive to New York from the St. Louis area. Everything was fine and the engine ran great the entire way there. My fiance and I let the car rest for three days while we took buses and subways around the New York area. After the third day, we started up the car and hit the highway. We didn't get out of New Jersey before we noticed hesitation when shifting gears. You'd hear the engine race, then finally "ca-chunk" when the gear finally shifted. I got scared and told my fiance to pull over. We called AAA and in about 2 hours, they came and towed the car (less than 3 miles, thank goodness) to their shop. We sat around for hours. The mechanic finally told us that the engine was experiencing carbon build-up, which was a reported occurring problem with this model. He said it would cost a few thousand to fix, but he could try just cleaning it out. It worked! We paid him about $300 (which sent our credit card over the limit), and drove home. The only other problem was that we had smoke coming out of the air conditioner after we got so far. We just shut it off and drove home. I let my car sit for a week under our carport before driving it again.
The other thing, ignition key sticking, is still happening. I'll tell my story first, then ask any guru to give your commentary:
About one month ago, I noticed a knocking noise coming from under the car. After driving a couple of times on the highway, I noticed that the noise seemed extremely disturbing when driving past 40 miles per hour. In addition, my steering column looked like it was possessed by demons. It shook erratically. I took the car to get its oil replaced and asked the lube guys if they noticed anything wrong/strange with the underside of the car. They saw nothing. That was week three. I called my dad, who is not a mechanic, and told him about the noise. He said I probably had a broken belt in my tire! The next morning, I decided to drive my car to the local tire place, when I noticed (and I don't know why I hadn't seen it before) that there was a huge chunk of tread missing from my tire! All you could see was silver mesh! I slowly drove my car to the tire place, and spent $34 to have both front tires replaced (the other one was running low on tread anyway). After replacement, there was still a slight sound that was familiar to the loose steel belt, but I shrugged it off, thinking I just needed another tire. My steering column didn't shake at all anymore and I thought everything was fine. A week later, I go visit a friend that, literally, lives less that a couple of miles down the road. I get out of my car and notice that the ignition key stuck a little, but I got it out. I go to get back into my car after a couple of hours and can't get the key in all the way. It only goes in halfway. I get my fiance's keys and the same thing happens! After working with the ignition by pushing my key in, I finally got it to go in all the way, but the ignition won't let me turn the key! I try my fiance's key, same result. We call AAA, the guy goes and tries the same thing I did. No luck. We tow the car to our house because we don't have money to fix it. Is the tire problem and ignition key problem related?
Today, after some research, I figured that the ignition switch locked up. I found a story where a woman said that she found out that the mechanics were "replacing" her switch, when all they were really doing was greasing it!
I just want to know: should I bother getting the ignition switch replaced and looking into the carbon build-up problem or just invest in another vehicle? I'm recently unemployed (Computer Tech) and am living on a very limited income. Any help or comments are greatly appreciated!
2000 focus is on 3d ignition switch, one of then I replaced myself. any comments?
Just wanted to say that the key sticking in the ignition seems to be a very common problem. It sounds crazy, but it has happened to me twice. The first time the dealer said it was an electrical problem, the second time they had to drill out the ignition cylinder and replace it. I was quoted $287.00 plus tax. Fortunately, it was covered under my warranty. I do sympathize with the financial aspects though. It is very frustrating to buy a new car and have issues like these. I'm just waiting to see if it happens again... I heard it happened several times to another Focus owner.
My key would not go into my 200 Focus Wagon August 20th. As it was late on a Friday Ford could not get to it until Monday. As this was in another city and I and a friend did not want to spend the weekend there I had a another auto repair shop repair it. On October 8th, in the evening, my key would go in, but the car would not start. Had the car towed to a Ford dealer. The next day they replaced the tumblers again. Cost is now up to almost $500.00, and oh the inconvenience.
Today, October 10th, key won't go into the ignition with out a struggle. Key is still in car, in the garage, lest I it wouldn't go into the ignition in the morning. Just hope it starts tomorrow!
I too, have recently had the key problem, I had to have a locksmith come out and change the whole ignition! one month later, the engine light goes on, and now I'm stuck with a car that does not run, and still making payments on it! when I have the money to fix this, I am definitely trading it in. I do have to say, when the car was running right, it was very fun to drive!
It is April 15,2006...and my car has had the ignition problem as well. I can't believe this is happening. It's 8:17 am and I have to be at work by 9:00. What Should I do?!
Best advice is to dump the car. My friend got rid of his when he was in a parking lot and the ignition bits simply crumbled when he attempted to start the car. Tow truck guy said it was the fifth one he's had to tow that month.
Sad to say, but the Focus is going to keep giving you problems no matter how well you take car of it.
THERE IS A Ford FIX FOR FOCUS IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER NOW.
Had frozen ignition cylinder 2/23/07, and found a Focus-troubles blog with many possible remedies; I told the possible problem and solution to local LOCKSMITH in Yellow Pages, whose ad specifies Auto Ignitions, and he came to the car and installed a fix. Our locksmiths have done 20 local Focuses, mostly with Ford original Huf design.
We tried the Strattec cylinder (made by Briggs and Stratton) intended for Explorer, that is the recommended fix on some Blogs.
Our locksmith brought one, but it was constructed such that our key would not fit to turn correctly.
Locksmith drove to our Ford dealer, intending to buy an original replacement made by Huf of Germany, knowing that it might not last, but was SURPRISED.
The Ford Dealer had a NEW FORD REPLACEMENT CYLINDER (not just an after-market brand), costing about $120 Ford Price + tax) and IT FITS AND IT WORKS AND IT DOES NOT HAVE THE "BAR".**
**What is wrong with the Huf originals and replacements is an extra bar that moves when the pins (tumblers) in the lock cylinder line-up with the proper key. The Bar and its 2 extra springs grind and get gritty and stick.
Some folks cannot turn their key, some folks cannot get the key out. Lock lube rarely helps. Actually the Ford dealer has been doing about 5 Focusses a WEEK, and is happy that there is a replacement that will not break ever again.
Our locksmith loosened the plastic steering wheel housing and a part of the lower dash, made a solid brass key so as not to hurt our "magic" keys, added a squirt of Lock-ease Spray, stuck key into the cylinder, pounded on the old original Huf for a half hour until its BAR moved and cylinder rotated with help of a small Vise-Grip Pliers to the "ON" position, and even then he had trouble prying it out... though it should have easily been released when the release button was pressed.
The replacement was installed in 5 minutes after being professionally set-up to match OUR EXISTING "MAGIC" KEYS.
All parts and labor, $370, in my driveway, took 3 hours, and locksmith did the shopping at Ford.
New lock-set should last a lifetime... it has NO BAR.
Happy Focus Owner... only other complaint is some suspension rattles that the dealer never could find.
Temporary Fix My key has been giving me trouble for some time, but today it just wouldn't turn. Locksmith suggested taking a pair of pliers and tapping on the key while I turned it. IT WORKED! Good now I can get my KIA Sephia with 400,000 miles (and hard any problems I might add) out from in front of the Hocus Pocus Focus.
I've been doing research on the 2005 Ford Focus Ignition problem. I like that permanent fix, but the dealer also says they think it's an odd problem (I would guess so). I also like the temporary fix because it's cheap.
I guess I'll quote the dealer and other shops to see what it would take to fix.
I now have the same problem that I am reading about here. I have a 2000 Focus with 68,000 miles. I see no reason why I, or anyone else, should be paying for the fixes. This is a Ford problem and they need to stand up straight and cover the costs.
I had the problem with the key not turning. for a few months now I have been having to like slam it in there and wiggle it just to get it to turn. well it finally gave out luckily at a gas station by my house. somehow a mechanic friend got it turned long enough to get it home. I had to order the part (ignition key cylinder) it was $75.00, then since my key has a chip in it (it was un noticeable, check top of key for little black square) I have a friend who had to configure the cylinder to my key. the car will not run without the key with the chip. locksmiths can also configure the cylinder to your key. since the whole column was locked, it had to be drilled out, literally. once it was drilled enough to turn (about half a turn) theres a button that you push through a hole. and it pops right on out. pushed the new one in and wa-lah. my car now works again!
!note! before doing all this, had to disconnect battery, take off the ignition switch and take off the cords connecting to cylinder.
I did the WD-40 and sprayed lots of it and still the key won't turn. It is Ford's problem and they don't admit it because they would pay millions of dollars for frustrated customers like me. I can't drive my car now and I will have to rent a car until this problem is fixed. It will cost me to repair it and it costed me already time and frustrations trying to resolve it. I hate Ford!!
I have had 3 people with the same issue.
The WD-40 works every time.
You either are not spraying enough/ inside.
OR you have damaged the lock by moving it too much or prying it with the tumblers were stuck.
Trust me its always the grease that hardens and the WD-40 or liquid wrench will repair it.
Locks are not that complex.
WOW I used a super lube from auto zone.
This worked perfectly.
Just wanted to pass this on in case it happens to someone else. My key to my 2006 Ford Focus got stuck in the ignition and I couldn't pull it out.. I could start/shut off my car-key just wouldn't come out. I did some research and the remedy that worked was WD-40. I sprayed the key as close to the opening as possible (top and underneath key), left it sit, sprayed again, wiggled it around and it came right out. After it was out I spayed in the hole once and then sprayed the key and put it in/out a couple of times.. I noticed the key was dirty so I cleaned the key and resprayed it and repeated in/out several times. I haven't had a problem since. I was thinking the underlying problem is dirt from my key built up inside because I did the spray/clean thing quite a few times until the key started coming out clean.