At 120K it developed a short somewhere in the turn signal system. I traced the problem to a small wire that got pinched under a bracket on the side of the engine compartment.
Burned out the clutch at about 150K miles. Changed it myself, even though I've never done that before. I just followed the instructions in the Chilton manual. It was pretty easy, but took a whole day.
Check Engine light came on at about 100K and I ignored it. Finally had to get a smog test and they failed the truck because of the check engine light. I took it to a local mechanic who told me it would be $250 to fix what he thought was the problem (something with the speedometer, which was wierd because the speedometer worked fine), and he wasn't sure it would turn the check light off. So I took apart the dashboard (which is fairly easy) and found the tiny little light bulb that illuminates the "check engine" light. Let's just say that little light will never again be a problem. Voila! Passed inspection...
At 140K, sometimes on rainy days when you first start it it will hesitate a LOT! But after 5 minutes it's fine.
Now at 162K it has developed a shimmy in the steering wheel. I think it might be the tie rod ends.
Truck is a work truck and gets abused pretty bad. 162,000 hard-earned miles. So the above issues were not unreasonable. It is a very solid, peppy little truck with a lot of heart. I have kept changing the oil every 3K miles and although some various systems are starting to have problems, the little 4-cylinder engine acts like it has another 150,000 miles yet to go.
Overall a real good truck.
Please do not just remove the MIL bulb...that's check engine light bulb. Replace the O2 sensors, they tend to last about 60,000 miles...100,000kms, depending on how clean your local gas is. It is cheap, truck will run better, the air will be cleaner...thanks...oh I have 220, kms on a 97 4 cyl and the sensors only non wear item to bother, and really it's a wear item as well, works it a tough environment.
Just a thought. I had a check engine light on and was told by my mechanic (whom I trust) to check a small piece of rigid silver piping at the firewall that wraps around a round, flat goldish doohickey (sorry to be so technical).
You have to take off the air filter housing to get to it. It has a fitting at each end and is kind of a pain to remove. I took his advice and after spending an hour getting if off, I used throttle body cleaner to thoroughly clean out the pipe and fittings. Turns out that dirt had accumulated in a small orifice at one end and was causing the engine to run rich and thus the check engine light. Hope this helps.
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