2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 from North America - Comments

Drive train had a clunking sound when rounding a corner and accelerating. Still under warranty, the dealer's fix was to lube the drive shaft yoke. There are TSB's (Technical Service Bulletins) out on this very problem, as hundreds of Chevy trucks, covering many years, also encounter this clunking.

For the most part, the noise has gone away. It's just something you might have to live with if you buy one.

Another nuisance was a vibration, almost like a clunk, felt in the steering wheel. Again, a TSB indicates that the intermediate steering shaft needs to be removed and lubricated. This was done under warranty, and I've had no further problems.

The latest problem I've had with it is a bad fuel sending unit, which is the component in the gas tank that sends a signal to the fuel gauge.

Again, there are many GM vehicles with this problem; do a Google search and you'll see. The problem stems from additives in the gasoline that deteriorate the contacts of the fuel sending unit. This causes the unit to send erroneous information to the fuel gauge. The gauge can read full one minute, and the next minute, it will slam down to empty.

A possible remedy for this, short of replacing the sending unit (dealer quote of $550) is to add some fuel injector cleaner to the gas tank. I did this twice, and it actually worked. I did this only last week, so I can't say for sure if it's going to stay that way, but it appears to have remedied the problem.

I like the roominess of the truck and its' load-carrying capability. I dislike having to park it, though. I previously drove an S-10, which was a great truck. With this one, I don't enjoy city driving it or parking it.

As another reviewer mentioned, the sheet metal is thin. I've dented my third door, simply by accidentally running into a 55 gallon plastic drum. I managed to pull about 2/3 of the dent out using a Dent King tool.

I will switch back to an S-10 when I'm done with this truck.

If you take good care of your truck now you won't be 'done' with it for a LONG TIME!

That clunk when turning? There is a coupler in the steering column that needs about 2 minutes of your dealer's time to lubricate. My 2001 did that, and the dealer in Walnut Creek Ca had it fixed before I could get to the waiting room. That was at about 6500 miles; I am now at 79,600 and the problem has not returned. Oh, and so far, $42.00 in repairs in that mileage.

Hah! I realize I'm beating a dead horse here, but these problems listed above are very well documented on the internet.

Now, what is driving me nuts is how people are saying "this will be the last Chev I buy", or "shoulda bought a Toyota", or whatever.

In 7 years of ownership, and 100k miles, I've encountered all of those issues. But, these are the only issues I've encountered. Easily less than $600 in repairs in 100k miles is a great deal in my book.

Not to bash anyone who has "come of age", but replacing a vehicle over a few hundred dollar repair is absolutely insane, and it's something my dad would do... and he's in his 60's. If a $300 fuel pump drives you buying a $20k compact P/U that down the road, it too will have issues, then be my guest. But, I cannot fathom buying a different rig based on such minor issues.

Ahhhh, I feel better. I guess I'll wash some dishes or something. =D.

JT

Lynnwood, WA.

Commenter 09:36 is a wise car/truck owner. ONE monthly payment on a new (far less reliable) Tundra would cover the TOTAL COST OF EVERY REPAIR I EVER HAD on my 4 Ford trucks and 1 GM truck. People who run to trade a vehicle after one $300 repair in 100,000 miles are not using sound logic.

I agree people overeact and then spend a bundle on a smaller underpowered compromised vehicle. I would also never go from an existing full size to a small truck. I would buy a car with a trunk and tie the lid down... I recently had to buy tires on a truck that I now own. It's a lot cheaper than running out as you say and plunking down $35,000 because I had to spend money on replacement tires.