1998 Volvo S70 GLT from North America - Comments

Oil supply tubes and Oil rings for Turbo and cams.

Poor or bad connection in headlight circuit.

Tends to run hotter than I would like (even for Southern California).

The following response was given for a specific post and I have asked to relist it under its own heading. Keep these questions in mind as you read the post.

What is the mystery behind the electrical problems?

Why the poor cooling?

Why do the brakes need replacing so often?

My observations and opinions are:

This is a very informative list and I think it should be reviewed by all interested in Volvo ownership. Last week my son bought a 98 S70 GLT with 72K. He loves the car and seems very happy. However, by mid-week the engine lifter noise was such that he took it to an independent Volvo specialist and the problem was diagnosed within 3 minutes. It seems these engines are designed with oiling tubes and "O" rings that fail with low miles on them (one for the Turbo and one for the Cam/lifters). The repair was done in one day and $500. Presently, it runs very quiet and seems to have correct power at the mid to upper RPM ranges. Thursday, he changed the front lights with upgraded bulbs and every time the lights are switched off and back on the front right bulb fails to come on without going under the hood and moving /pressing on the rear connector. Last night I took a look at his car (after he detailed the light problem), and I found the following: This series Volvo is full of plastic body components (i.e., radiator core support, etc) and the right side light housing was not tight. It is my opinion that these cars will have numerous electrical problems due to poor or intermittent ground conditions. By Volvo moving toward plastic body components (previously made of conductive metal materials), the circuit must have the additional ground wire included through a greater portion of the circuit length (i.e., the circuit must have it's ground supplied within the wire harness and not supplied by a separate attachment to the nearest body ground). Additionally, the mountings for other high current demand relays are mounted in plastic. Over the next few weeks we will be adding additional ground wiring points (using 12 ga wire) to all accessories that draw 15 amps or more. Premature electronic component failure in newer cars can often be attributed to poor or floating ground issues that come and go like a bad headache.

Another area that seems marginal on these cars is the cooling system. Since automotive cooling is a large part of my design and manufacturing activities, I will be adding two electric "Pusher Fans" between the front bumper support and the radiator. It is bad enough that the dealers have failed to explain why synthetic oil should be used if at all possible, but Volvo seems unable to lower the operating temperature of these cars. The increased engine and engine compartment heat only serves to shorten both component and engine life. My son has already removed the big Volvo insignia that blocks airflow into the radiator.

The issue of brakes and replacement frequencies will always remain a topic that the dealers do not want to explain or correct. Owners of these and most "front-wheel drive" cars will experience low-life and expensive brake jobs unless they invest in high-performance Pads and in extreme cases, rotors. Since front-wheel drive cars have engine, transmission and differential (or transaxle) all in the front, marginal OEM brake sizes, designs, and parts just don't last. Additionally, some manufacturers have opted to use softer rotor material and harder pad material to increase braking efficiency. This works, but so does the increased deposits to the dealers' accounts.

This was a hard thing for me to watch as my son looked for the perfect car and had to deal with my 2 Lexus LS400's and performance F-Bodies around the house. My cars have 143K (LS400), 203K (LS400), 292K (Camaro Z28), and 136K (Trans Am) with original engines, etc. The LS400s have been the best!!! The Volvo was not a 1st -3rd choice for me. But this was not my choice to make so I will do all that I can to support my son's decision. We will be the upgrade team to make his Volvo a bit better/less problematic. Sorry for the long post!

My husband and I were leaving home shortly to look at a 1998 GLT S70 with a mileage of 106,000. Sale price: $5900. I wondered why so cheap? Then I checked this site and now I see why. Won't be purchasing this car. Thanks for great, fair reviews on this car. My husband wants to purchase a used Toyota of some kind. For safety reasons, I want to purchase a used Volvo of some kind with decent gas mileage for around $6500. We own a new Expedition -- love this car, but would love to have a used Volvo to drive around time. Anyone with suggestions on a used Volvo, could you post to this site or e-mail me privately: sadieyork@aol.com - thanks.

Volvos are designed to run hot to increase the efficiency of the pollution control systems.

I think the initial review of the person who’s son got the S 70- 1998 is very good and hits many technical points. I do have a S-70 – 1999 AWD and I have similar problems with the lifter noise. I would appreciate if the initial reviewer can e-mail me with some more technical information on how he got around the problems that he mentions including the place of the “o” ring and oil tube repairs. I’m pretty technical oriented person and I do work in all my cars. My e-mail address is bmcoachmsicl@yahoo.com. I appreciate any technical input.

Well, VOLVO engine is designed to burn high octane gasoline, not 87... That leak from seals on turbo oil return tube is result of high blow-by created mostly as result of using cheap gas... VOLVO cars are sometimes extremely abused. People think that by buying a VOLVO they can escape the regular maintenance that every car needs. So be careful when buying a used car even VOLVO…

The previous writer states, "VOLVO engine is designed to burn high octane gasoline, not 87... That leak from seals on turbo oil return tube is result of high blow-by created mostly as result of using cheap gas." I have heard that Volvo turbos need higher octane, but I totally fail to understand how lower octane fuel could cause a blow-by leak. Please explain. Thanks!

A modern engine will produce more blow-by when burns low octane gasoline. Let get into consideration two-three facts. First the front of flame inside the combustion chamber will move rapidly instead of moving slowly and burning the whole air-fuel mixture. The unburned amount of gasoline will dilute the engine oil. The diluted oil will not help the piston rings to create a good seal around the cylinder wall, then more than normal blow-by will be produced. Furthermore the diluted oil will not protect well the entire engine anymore. Second as result of using low octane gasoline more carbon will be created into the combustion chamber. Some of this carbon will be build up into the piston-piston ring area and will not let the ring to expand well in order to create the necessary seal. Third in every engine the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system is designed to allow a certain amount of blow-by gases into intake manifold. When the amount of these gases is higher than normal, pressure is build up inside the crankcase. This pressure will damage engine seals and push same of the oil out from the seals as well.

I have a question. How do you turn off the service interval light? I am not talking about the check engine light, but the one that comes on after 10,000 miles or so many engine starts.

To turn of the service light you need a device that will hook up to the OBD computer (located under front-armrest), they are pretty expensive (>100 bucks).

I have also noticed these engines run hooottt. I don't really care though.

Also, why didn't Volvo mandate 93 Octane if the engines need them!!! They say 93 is recommended, but 89 is O.K. What do you think your average person is going to buy?

Well if you really care about your volvo like me you'll spend that extra 15 cents a gallon.

My 1998 volvo S70 GLT owner's manual says 91 octane is recommended and 87 is the minimum (these are AKI numbers, the avg of the two octane rating methods). Some cars can detect the octane being used and adjust for it, perhaps reducing power output. Does the S70 do this?

My volvo GLT Turbo is great. I just bought it used with 70k on it and it runs great. I had to replace the water heater though for roughly $200. But the car runs absolutely wonderful. I have had this car running very fast and it is still very smooth. I have never had a Problem with the brakes, I hear the rumors, but I have no reason to beleive them yet. But this is by far my favorite car I have owned and my last car was a Nissan 350z with a turbocharged, and this car may not be quite as powerful, but it would beat it in a race. So I definately recomend this car. Thanks.

The Volvo S70 turbo engine requires premium gas. It simply won't run at it's best on regular 87, not to mention it will cause engine damage over time. The turbo engine in these cars as well as in the 850 (same engine) is more problematic due to the complications of the turbo systems on this motor. The non-turbo version is an excellent motor and lasts a long time if properly maintained. As for the short brake lifespan, it's true. As far as I know, all Volvos eat through brakes. I was told by my trust independent Volvo mechanic that Volvo chose to use softer material pads, which make the brakes stronger, but wear out more quickly. It's a safety issue and you know Volvo is known for safety. If you've ever driven a Volvo, you know how insanely responsive and strong the brakes are. As for the fact the S70 burns through light bulbs constantly, it's true. It's a design flaw. But replacing $2 bulbs once a month is a lot cheaper than replacing major mechanical components like most cars require. As for the issue of running hot, I've never experienced any of our 3 Volvos (240, 740, 940) running hot. Volvo did purposefully design the temp. gauge to stay at the halfway mark and not fluctuate, unlike in most vehicles where it gives you a true temp. indication. Only if the car is truly overheating will the needle move past the halfway mark.

My 98 Volvo S70 GLT cuts off at times. Anyone else with this problem or know whats going on? My email address is fred.credle@dom.com.

I am someone who had not planned on purchasing a Volvo because I was a struggling single mother. I had an appointment to look at a used Volvo and then it was off to purchase a new whatchamacallit (at the time of writing this I simply cannot recall the make). In any event, I drove my used Volvo home. It was a match made in heaven. The plan was to drive it and maintain it as an investment and once I retired, it would be my wonderful road machine. I have had my 1998 S70 GTAS for 5 years. I cannot say enough about performance. My little Swedish Girl has 94,000 miles on her.

I am very troubled (and now retired). I have experienced some sort of combustion that generates heat and smoke from the front driver's side wheel. For many reasons, I am not true to genuine Volvo service. I am usually treated as if I have no business owning my vehicle. So, I take her elsewhere and pray. I let Pep-Boys inspect the problem I have just described and was told my driver's side caliper was freezing on me.

I wound up investing in a set of calipers, pads (Pro top platinum which sounds too fancy to me), rotors (I do not know whether they are the same brand and quality or not), and brake hoses. I needed struts and I purchased rear shocks (which I needed also).

Well, I had to take my vehicle back today because of a nanosecond-type steering wheel freeze when I was pulling out of my parking space this morning. After the inspection today, I was told I am missing a bolt and some nuts that support my rack and pinion steering. (They should have seen this when they inspected my brakes, right?) I am so paranoid. While waiting to check in for service, I noticed some apparent newly arrived "rack and pinion" boxes against a wall. In any event I picked my vehicle up, returned home, and feeling panicky, I made a Volvo service dealer phone call. I was told that a $103 diagnostic check would have to be done before any determination about what was missing as to "bolts and some nuts". I have not decided to do this. (I should have suspected my rack and pinion steering was putting me on notice for help because I have been hearing a small strange noise whenever I am maneuvering in and out of parking spaces.)

Am I in danger while driving if I do not get my rack and pinion problem "tightened" up right away? Can I buy a kit that would contain the necessary parts and take them to a mechanic?

My brakes are performing well, nothing is smoking, but now, both my front wheels feel (to the back of my hand while holding it near) like they are running hot. This is not usual. I also am hearing a thud when I step on the brake pedal sometimes. I apologize. I am just a bit overwhelmed and fearful. Once my little cat of 12 years came down ill. I took her to the vet and she never returned home. I watched him put her to sleep. Surely, I would be wrong to compare my vehicle to my cat, but the shock value is there.

I am retired, but I give 24/7 care to my ailing mother and do not get to spend much time trying to figure out my own problems. Any advice you can give me will be profoundly appreciated.

Thank you ever so much!

Sandra Lewis.

The brakes squeal. Pads rotors have been replaced and the brakes still squeal.