No problems currently.
The Maxima was the first car I looked at, and a month later, ended up purchasing from the original owner.
The car was the flagship model, top of the line SE with every available package option. It came loaded with features including climate control, 200w audio system, the infamously reliable "VQ" engine, 4 wheel disc brakes among many other goodies.
Performance is excellent with the smooth V6. I have the auto, so there is a bit of a pause when you go full throttle; typical of automatic transmissions. Low and mid range power is great, but the top end is a little lacking, due to the intake runners. Nevertheless, highway passing and sprints never felt so smooth and quick.
Ride comfort was decent with the SE suspension. Noticeable body roll and lean through the corners. Cabin noise is good, however.
Interior is par with the competition family cruisers. Nothing too luxurious, but not too mundane, either. The leather found in the Maxima is of low grade. They get pretty stiff if left unconditioned and untreated.
Fuel economy on the Maxima is surprisingly good. After a full service dealership tuneup, I am getting ~20MPG in all city driving. Sans the hilly roads and the plethora of intersections, I'd definitely be in the low 20's. Even with my modifications, my MPG didn't even blink.
The car looks great, although the large wheel gap makes it look like a 4x4.
A few things I didn't really like about the Maximas, however.
First thing, the use of premium fuel was a bit of a shocker, especially for a family sedan. I personally don't mind paying the extra few dollars to get 94 octane, but I suppose this is a main reason as to why the Maxima is hardly ever compared to with the Camry and the Accord among consumers.
The paint quality is a bit of a let down. I've got noticeable paint chips on my hood mostly. I figure it is largely due to the previous owner and I driving a little too close to trucks and such. At our Vancouver Maxima meet, the other Maximas didn't exhibit this problem.
Probably the most annoying thing on the Maxima are the lousy headlights. Even on their flagship model, the Maxima came with 9004 headlamps. They are subpar at night and provide for minimal lighting in dark and rainy conditions. Thank goodness the SE's came with foglights as well. There is a writeup on converting the 9004's to 9007 for stronger light output, thus better visibility. I personally plan on swapping in the one-piece Cefiro headlamps that use the H4 fitament and convert them to a bi-xenon H.I.D. system.
It has been a little over a year since I took ownership of my Maxima, and it has been a delight. I've currently spent about $6,700CDN on upgrades for the car on performance and cosmetic items. I figure to spend well over $10,000 on upgrades to complete the car. Mind as well improve everything on the car that can be improved!
The stiffer, and lower suspension setup now allows me to hug corners with hardly any body roll. It also removes the wheel gap along the way.
Aftermarket wheels and tires provide for good looks and excellent grip.
A full body kit from Stillen evens out the look of the Maxima from front to back, without sacrificing the clean, factory appearance.
Exhaust components free up the restrictive factory exhaust system providing for some of the missing top end previously absent before.
I don't plan to part with the Maxima. From all the testimonials from other Maxima owners, every Maxima will be sprinting to the 200,000 mark!
You get a little bit of everything in the car. What a bargain.
I read your review and noticed that you said that the Maxima needs premium gas. This worried me since I am looking to buy one. I did a search and found on fueleconomyone. com that the Maxima can take Regular unleaded. I think that Nissan just recommends Premium, but it is not required.
Premium fuel is recommended, but like any production car it will run fine on regular gas. The engine is equipped with a knock sensor so it'll dial back the timing to accommodate. You'll just get less pep. Over on the Maxima boards a few people have run regular without any ill effects although I would run midgrade (89 octane) and on occasion fill up with a tank of premium. If you drive your car hard (or carry load) you'll definitely want to run premium if you start hearing knock.
I am looking at a 98 Nissan Maxima and I was wondering about a couple things. This Maxima has 143,000 miles on it, but they said most were highway miles because it belonged to a rancher. Do you think buying a Maxima with that many miles is a good idea, or should I look for something new? I hear that Maxima's last into the 200,000's, but I don't know if that's a rumor or what. I just need something that will last me on the highway because I'm currently a college student, and I need a car that I can trust. Thank you.
You asked the same question about a '98 Subaru Legacy.
Yeah I know I asked the same thing about the Legacy. Its weird because both these cars have 143000 miles on them, but they are made my two different companies, meaning that they hold two different engines. Is one a better buy then the other? Is a Legacy not worth $5000 with 143000 miles on it? is the Maxima worth $7400 with 143000 on it? This is what I'm trying to get at.
Only you are in a position to test drive both cars, check that they have a proper service history and are now in good condition, bodily & mechanically, and see how you really like each car. Highway miles are better than city miles.
Try to find out what each car is really worth.
Ask your bank manager for help because they have access to used car values, even if you don't intend to take a loan from him.
Take each car for a long test drive, over half an hour, to allow the transmission fluid to warm up and make sure it's not slipping. Does each car have the space you want, adequate headroom, luggage space.
Do the brakes grind or pull to one side?
Does it drive smoothly and quietly without annoying rattles or squeaks. If it will soon need new tyres, ask for a new set to be included or get a price reduction.
Look at the brake pads & discs, are they worn or scored?
Is the windshield cracked or scratched. Is the interior clean and undamaged. Just 'cause these are high-mileage cars doesn't mean you should accept a wreck.
I once bought a BMW750iL with 140,00 miles on it, very well cared for & I took it to 250,000 with no major problems.
Salesmen do not want you to walk away and "think" about it after a drive, they want to make a sale right away, and understandably so.
Do all the gadgets work, esp A/C & power windows, stereo, CD,? A long drive with A/C on may reveal any overheating problems.
If everything works, it's a good sign that the owner has kept up with things. (unless the dealer fixed it up)
Check that the engine oil and transmission fluid are clean.
Don't rush into anything. Check everything, even the lights & horn.
You might think I'm daft for writing all this, but I've read hundreds of reviews on this site and a lot of complaints are stuff that would have been apparent on a long test drive. Don't be pressured into a short trip if the tank is nearly empty, offer to put $10 worth of gas in. It's worth it. If the salesman refuses, he's hiding something.
Try to take a knowledgeable friend with you. Two pairs of eyes are better than one.
When you buy a used car you are buying something that the previous owner no longer wants, whether it's a Yugo or a Ferrari.
I try to buy privately so I can find out why the owner is selling & I expect him to have kept a full file on the car's service history, no matter what car it is.
If he's selling because a new car has arrived, that's good.
If he's selling to pay the rent, that's bad.
Good luck.
The earlier Legacy's had problems with oil leaks. Usually the cause of bad crank seals or the oil pump. Varying amounts of oil tend to accumulate around the timing chain cover and oil pump. Both the 2.2 and 2.5L have this problem. It's a fairly straight-forward fix, but on the 2.5 you'll need to disconnect the timing chain also. The '98's were also prone to headgasket leaks so check for oil around the bungs for the spark plugs. I think a new, better gasket was used in the next year so it shouldn't be a problem for the '99.
Beyond that (and your typical due diligence), they have a bulletproof engine and drivetrain and should be an excellent choice.
Maximas tend to have very poor resale value down in the states, so at that price it might be a little high unless the car is MINT. On the Maxima check for timing chain rattle (on COLD startup) (95-96) and knock sensor function (check ECU for codes). The Maxima's engine (VQ30DE) is also bulletproof and can take a beating.
Both have average maintenance costs in terms of $$$ but again since the Maxima does recommend using premium and you prefer to not downgrade running costs might be a little higher. Of course do your due diligence here also and make sure all major service is done. Maximas tend to take abuse fairly well, but since Maximas go for so cheap in the states many of them end up being rat-bagged and when repairs are needed they come in bunches.
Good luck on your choice.