1981 Volvo 240 DL from North America - Comments

Nothing mechanical

charging system is weak

oil leak from oil filler cap.

Everything about the reliability, safety and quality is true here.

I bought this DL wagon in BC (Vancouver Island) in August for $699. It had a host hanging off the carb and the passenger door latch was off from a ding.

It had moss growing on it, especially around the roof rack, but some RV moss remover and elbow grease took care of that. There is a little surface rust, but the body and underside metal is frankly amazing to an Ontario boy; this is normal for West Coast cars. The Island has many 70s and 80s cars in service that you never see here. Hondas, VWs and Datsuns abound from 25 years ago.

The B21A engine has a manual choke, and the dealer blew it out at 699 because his wife who drove it for a couple of months had endless trouble starting it in the morning because she didn't know about the choke.

Needless to say, the car starts perfectly. There is nothing to this motor car; it is simplicity itself.

Cooling system is excellent, transmission shifts nicely, although it is truck-like, which is fine with me - I appreciate robustness.

The car runs perfectly.

All systems and components are easily accessible and working on the car is a pleasure after struggling with the cramped V6 engine compartment of a 90s GM Nbody car.

The Volvo drove back 4500km to Ontario in 3 and a half days, driving 15 hours a day. I would have been back in 3 days, but a charging problem arose preventing driving at night. Note to the wise: if your gauges start to die, you are losing your battery!

Charging problem traced to excessive crankcase pressure from clogged breather box / flametrap / hoses, which forced oil out of the filler cap and fouled up the darn alternator connections.

At one point on I90, I stopped for fuel. I had been doing about 130 to 140 km/h. A woman pulled up beside in a 960 wagon and asked if I would check her oil. "Am I out of oil", she asked. Hers was fine, but I was almost totally out of oil! I had to add 3 quarts! Car was fine, though, save and except for the charging problem.

Rest of the trip I cruised at 110km/hr, and had no further oil loss problems.

The cause of this has now been corrected by removing and cleaning the breather box and hoses, which had tons of crud in them.

Nevertheless, the wiring/charging symptom is still present due to oil rot and coverage. Will be dealing with that next, but this car is truly my friend.

Any vehicle that gets you across the continent going 15 hours a day is a keeper. You know it won't let you down.

I have replaced the manual transmission fluid with Amsoil synthetic.

Performance is acceptable with the manual, but the wagons are 3300 pounds; apparently they can tow their weight no problem, and with the pull from the low gears, I believe it. The thing is like a truck. Volvo makes nice trucks from what I see on the roads.

You can fold the back seat flat, as is often noted; I slept at a KOA campsite rather comfortably, and I am 6'1".

The 81 has no computer, and the Canadian version has a carburetor, so it is really old style motoring. Aside from the clock, there are no electrical accessories - it is plain transport.

I expect to drive this to one million km this century.

I have a 85 Volvo 240 GL and I drive it a lot. Recently I discover a fuel pump problem where I have to bang on it to start the car, could it only be the contacts or should I replace the expensive pump? your opinion please chanwken@hotmail.com.

An 85 GL will have fuel injectors and electric fuel pump; my 81 DL is mechanical/carburetor.

It is unlikely it is the fuel pump if banging it "helps".

You have an electrical contact or short to ground problem. Is there pressure? Do you have a gauge? There should be pressure with key to "on" but not starting engine, and you can hear a whirring sound from the fuel pump.

I thought the fuel pump was "in tank" in the fuel tank on some 240s. Are you sure it is the fuel pump you are banging?

If you have any intermittent problems on the 240 I suggest that the first thing that you check is the fuse connections. Take each fuse out, polish the fuse ends and the holders in which they sit. I had my 240 cut out and refuse to start. All it was was a poor contact on the fuse-holder for the main fuel pump. The contacts tend to lose their pressure over the years, and oxidization leads to failed contact, so its well worth doing this as part of say an annual check up.

Thanks. I have not gone over the fuse block yet, although I have replaced some wires and fuses (as well as the alternator brushes).