Comments: 1-15, 16-30
Lifter noise started around 45,000 miles. Dealer would change the oil and the noise would go away. Now have 80,000 miles and the dealer tells me they see many Troopers and Rodeos with bad rocker shafts. Dealer recommends using heavier oil to mask the problem (which is what they were probably doing from the beginning). Now the cost to repair is estimated to be $2,000.
Feel Isuzu used inferior engine parts.
I bought the 94 Trooper new - noticed lifter noise from almost the beginning. At 50k miles replaced the first lifter. At 110k replaced all. At 150k one of the heads cracked & at 160k (now) the second head cracked.
I have a 1993 Trooper L (3.2l sohc) with over 200,000km. When I bought it I heard a lifter or tappet noise. As it turns out heavy oil is bad for the light aluminium engine. (oil that is 10w30 or higher) The manufacturer requires 5w30 due to the fact that it increases fuel efficiency, but they also claim it is the lightness of aluminium engines that require it.
10w30 seems to immediately cause tappet noise especially if the oil hasn't been changed regularly in past history (5,000 - 10,000km).
5w30 also needs to be changed more frequently because it breaks down much quicker than heavy oil. Therefore you can get build up quicker from not changing the oil frequently enough and you get valve tappet noises.
(Apparently most shop mechanics recommended to me using heavy oil, but this is counter productive and wrong)
What compounds the problem is that this engine is a relatively hard working engine (overhead cam high revs) and therefore produces more heat. Previous trucks I've had, had large oil reservoirs thereby increasing a cooling effect and decreasing heat and were pushrod type engines (lower revs cooler operating temp)
So be forewarned as 5w30 oil starts to turn into tar or varnish from engine heat and gums up the valve tappets causing the noise. This is bad if you let it go too long as you can end up snapping valves, heads...
Solution: Save yourself a few thousand bucks by getting an oil change immediately to 5w30 (a high detergent one) and dumping some oil additive detergent for cleaning out oil buildup. Then make sure you change your oil more frequently. After a couple of weeks the noise goes away. If it doesn't go away then you need to have it looked at as you've let occur too long.
I feel it's a conspiracy between the manufacturers, the EPA, and Mr. Lube!
Regards,
A Millbank (zhikr@hotmail.com)
We bought an Isuzu Trooper new in '93 and, at present, we've got 225,343 miles on it and still going pretty strong...we'll try for 400K! I changed the oil from Castrol 5W-20 (which was always really burnt looking) to 10W-30 at about 100K, then to Shell Rotella 15W-40 at approx. 175K miles, and I'm sure contrary to all advice, it appears a good move (and I may eat those words tomorrow). We've had lots of lifter noise starting at around 60K miles, but it stays pretty quiet (sort of) as long as I change the oil every 3000 miles or so. Replaced the nasty auto locking hubs with manual ones, a new water pump or two, been wrecked and fixed 7 times, hauled a horse trailer, hay, and all were long trips... looks great and drives great, truly a wonderful vehicle... and every mile it makes since being paid for makes it even more wonderful. And the wheels aren't even near to falling off yet! Xmission is getting a bit sloppy and the clutch is about dead. Are there any reliable replacement heads/clutch/xmission's out there, or is everything still through Isuzu?
W.C. Whitaker.
Have a 93' Trooper with 193K on it. Bought it 3 years ago.
Have replaced the Power Steering Master Cylinder ($600.00) Transmission ($2100.00) as well as a few minor repairs. The O2 sensor was replaced last year, and is bad again. Going to do this myself as it is a simple process. Other than that, it has been a great car, and I only paid 2K for it, so so far so good, should last another 50k at least. Body and interior are perfect.
I have the clicking lifter as well which I notice on all troopers I come across, I just make sure the engine is warm before driving. Recent diagnostic shows a strong motor.
I also had lifter noise in my 1994 trooper. the noise started around 148,000 miles and ended when I changed to a cheap $2.50 purolator oil filter part # l14459. I had read on this subject before and that person said this is a cheap fix and it worked for me, also I have stopped using mobil one and have changed to a castrol 20w50 good luck darrell.
We bought a 1995 Isuzu Trooper, It ran quiet for about 2 months, Then upon starting it would start this loud knocking sound from the engine, we took it to a couple of repair shops. The first told us that it was going to throw a rod. Then it just stopped, for a couple of weeks, Now it does it almost daily, Replaced a broken timing belt, Stopped for a while, Now the Oil pressure stays very low! pat.
I have a 1994 isuzu trooper with 158,000+ miles. It is in good condition. I changed the timing belt and it's running strong. All I need to do now is get a tune-up and it will almost like having a new car.
I have a 95 3.2 that has a leaking water pump and 120K. I plan to replace the timing belt when I do the water pump, but can't find a good manual? Looking for advice.
Quesos4@hotmail.com.
I bought my trooper new in 1992. It now has 167,000 miles on the clock and I have never had any problems. Regular maintenance (10W-30 oil), new 02 sensor @ 120k, and 1 new starter @ 150k, new timing belt @120k, and the usual tapping noise at about 65k, other than that, I just add gas and go. Lots of hard driving and towing large loads and the trooper runs great. Interior and exterior are like new.
Even with all the miles, I never hesitate to jump in it and head off road or take a cross country trip. This has a very reliable vehicle and I couldn't be more happy with it.
When it dies, if ever, I'll be making a trip back to the Isuzu dealership to see what's new on the lot.
I bought a 1994 trooper with 90K. about 2 months after I bought it, lifter noise (tapping, knocking sounds) was audible. the Isuzu dealer told me that the lifters were hydraulic and would cost $3000 to replace. well, forget that. I took it to a mechanic and he started doing synthetic oil changes. the lifter noise stopped. it still makes the noise in the winter, in the morning when its cold and 10 degrees out, but after a few minutes, the noise stops and it runs quiet.
J. Griffin
I owned a '91 Trooper for about 3 years from 79kmi to 125 kmi, at 90kmi starts the knocking and a low oil pressure, inspected and nothing found, replace the timing belt and oil pump and everything in the same situation, at 125kmi everything was the same, but nothing happened to the engine and never loose power, sold it an bought a automatic '94 trooper with 89kmi on it.
Everything was running smooth, but It starts loosing oil pressure on '93kmi, not knocking yet, but I'm scared to start listening to that noise again.
ANY BODY HAS REPAIR THE PROBLEM WITH OIL PRESSURE??
I already replace the oil filter in last oil change for a Napa and increased to 20w50, pressure stays at 50psi for about 1 ride, but returns to the lows 6-10 psi at idle, 30-40 at 2-3k rpm's.
Thanks.
I've been reading up on the low oil pressure issue and everyone who has it should check out the fix on the ITOG website. www.itog.com (Isuzu Trooper Owners Guild.) Are you going through a quart or so per tank of Gas? If you are you probably have a leaking gasket.
On another note:
Its very unfortunate that they aren't making them anymore and are now selling GM's Assender crap. Can't even buy them in Canada anymore. I'm going to buy a Subaru or a Kia Sorrento after this. Subaru's are made by the same company - Fuji Heavy Industries... Any other Trooper replacements? As true offroader vehicle's?
A Millbank.
Well, after reading all the comments on lifter noise, I just had to put in my "Design Engineer's" 2 cents worth.
While many of these folks have touched on facts, truths, and what may have worked for them, one or two facts have been overlooked. Also statements have been made that I cannot hardly believe that any knowledgeable automotive tech would tell anyone.
Motor oil does not know whether a engine is made of aluminum or cast iron. Therefore, I have to believe that the same cause and effect must be applied to ISUZU engines as it is in any internal combustion motor.
The oil pressure is a end result starting from oil pressure and volume supplied by the pump, the oil galleys
(the hole in the block and head (S) --which I might add are almost always too small in most IMPORT engine design--HONDA, MAZDA, MITSU, etc.) and bearing clearances.
The basic problem in this type of valve train is that the engineers in their infinite wisdom have attempted to require a component (lifter valve lash adjuster or what ever you want to call it) is roughly 1/6th the the size and volume of its conventional components. Basic 8th grade science-- hydraulics as work (force/longevity). Add to this the fact that aluminum is soft and will not retain its concentricity around the lifter as long as iron or alloys and there is more clearance to lose oil pressure. This is nothing new ie: Mazda and Chrysler experienced this years ago where the repair consisted of lifter/rocker arm assembly replacements.
My suggestion is keep the oil changed every 2500 miles, the more miles the heavier the oil (not to exceed 20w-50) and use AMSOIL or a full synthetic oil not a blend.
The other cause of sludge is inferior gasoline. All engines have leakage past the piston rings regardless of age. Therefore, the more contaminants that go past the rings into the motor oil, the nastier the oil becomes sooner.
Thanks for listening
The WIZARD.
My 1993 Trooper LS with 180,000 miles has been wonderful. I've needed to replace the waterpump which squeals at me for the first few minutes, but now I've suddenly developed another more serious problem. I've heard the lifters tick for the first few seconds after startup for awhile now, but just the other day out of the blue I developed a very loud ticking or almost even a rattling (but I wouldn't describe it as a knock) noise that seems to be coming from somewhere under the right valve cover or under the intake. The speed of the tick/ rattle corresponds to engine RPM, but seems to be at maybe half the tempo that you'd expect a lifter tick to be. It is so bad that you can even feel it by placing your hand on the engine. If you rev the engine, the noise speeds up accordingly then disappears consistently at 2200RPM. Once RPM falls below 2200, the noise returns immediately.
I was 200 miles from nowhere in Alaska when it developed so I drove it back to Anchorage and maybe another 20 miles since and it is still going strong as ever, but I'm afraid to do anymore damage. The only thing I've done so far to check the problem is: 1) change the oil and filter -no change 2) loosen waterpump/ fan/ alt. belt so waterpump would not spin to make sure that was not problem -no change and 3) pull plastic cover in front of right side timing belt/ pulley -With the engine running I applied slight downward pressure to the top of the pulley/ belt with the side of a screwdriver. When I did this the noise quieted substantially, but did not go away completely.
Has anyone experienced this problem? I don't know if it makes a difference, but that night was the coldest weather the Trooper has ever been in. It was between -10 and 0 F plus 20 - 40 mph winds plus driving down the road. Any information or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Matt.
I had the same problem with the loud knocking from the timing belt cover. Turns out that it was the hydraulic tension adjuster for the timing belt that was the culprit. It seems that these tend to wear out around 100K miles. I took it to a shop and they replaced the t-belt, waterpump, and tension adjuster. Now the knocking is completely gone. I definitely consider myself lucky in this regard.
The only thing is, now I'm noticing a high-pitched sucking sound from under the hood, but haven't been able to isolate it. Does anyone out there know of this problem? Could it have something to do with my emissions system (EGR valve?)?
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Steven
Austin, TX.