New front pads and rear shoes at 95k, pads seem to last about 30k, but are $12 a set.
The original steel wheels had kerb damage, found a secondhand set of GXE/SE alloys on Altimas. net for $120. Tires last 25-30k (Bridgestone RE930i)
Replaced distributor cap and rotor arm, rotor arm was loose (had a helper) and damaged posts.
Replaced radiator, it developed cracks in the plastic around the filler cap which couldnt be sealed. New rad was $120 online and easy to fit, replaced thermostat while system was empty.
Needs CV boots, will replace shafts for ~$65 per side since its easier, quicker and less messy (NB hub nuts are high tq. and must be replaced)
A/T pan gasket hard to seal, likely due to pan damage, grey "import" gasket sealant easily fixed that.
Leaks oil from breather separator, need to remove PAS pump to remove it and remake the gasket (more sealer!), replace PCV valve while youre there as its impossible to change any other way.
Reasonable performance (quicker than 2.0 Accord), easy to drive in traffic, good value, chain cam engines (KA24DE) last well (lots about with 150k+), most stuff easy to fix. Handle fairly well, good ride, brakes good at front, four disc cars better. Drivers seat wears, not great for lower back. Headlights not great for illumination, and rubber seals let in condensation, need to make sure back covers are on square and use silicone to seal to keep out moisture.
Back seats do not fold, but there is a Ski hatch. SE manuals with leather sought after, worth a bit extra over GXEs. Newer shape 97-on mechanically the same, some revisions in the OBDII cars.
Update: Just about to do pads and discs at 130k, otherwise everything else still working. O2 sensors replaced 12 motnhs ago to cure CEL (oxygensensors.com), front one was corroded in place, but Nissan used a spacer nut which removed easily after sensor was abused off the manifold. Rear 02 sensor necessitates removal of heatshield (same on most cars), Four 10mm bolts all corroded, 2 needed to be drilled and reamed out, but otherwise straightforward. Split EGR BPT transducer (emissions hose) caused intermittent CELs, easily tracked down with the help of the OBD and a Haynes manual. Needs a valve cover gasket for oil seepage ($15) but otherwise drives and handles as it did 40k and 2 years ago. Still gets ~24mpg.
Update: 150k and still going strong. Leaks a little oil from around the pulley covers (end of the engine block) but KA24s do that. In all its about a pint every 3000 miles so its hardly worth pulling the engine out to fix.
Valve cover gasket replaced, cured leaks at the top end.
Front sway bar links replaced, $12 a side, front end quieter and pulls nice and straight under braking.
Replaced an EGR control solenoid (caused a CEL, Haynes and OBD scanner to the rescue), got a used one online for $10 at altimas.net classifieds so easily fixed. More CELs and bad MPGs (down to 20mpg) caused by a dirty connector on the intake sensors, cleaned with brush and alcohol, back in buisness and 24-28mpg.
Just about to get more tires, last set have gone 30k.
Fitted an aftermarket CD/MP3 head unit that takes USB and SD cards, front audio jack, remote control, face/off unit, just $70 at target, vast improvement on the stock radio, even with the stock speakers, trying to resist temptation to add 6x9s or an amp, after all it's a 12yr old car I'm busily trying to destroy.
Replacement (reman) driveshafts fitted at 130k working fine, showing no probs or CV boot splits after 20k. Time to flush the auto trans again, its had about 30k since the last, but fluid is still clear and it shifts smooth, Lubegard HFM ATF supplement noticeably improved it and helps mitigate for using Mercon III in place of Nissanmatic D.
What will I replace it with when it eventually blows something expensive or is damaged? Probably an 02-on Altima 3.5SE, prices are dropping now the revised '07 is out.
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