Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-70
Heated driver seat inoperable.
O2 sensor.
Knock sensor.
Transmission slipping in 1-2 shift.
Engine light on for knock sensor ($500 quote to fix)
Transmission has been serviced per factory specs, but is now slipping in the 1-2 shift. Has anyone else had this problem? I can't imagine how, but could the two problems (faulty knock sensor and slipping transmission) be related?
I don't know if the 2 are related, but I've also had problems with my transmission slipping from 1st-2nd...i had my transmission drained and that helped for a few thousand miles, but now with 70,000 miles on my 95 millenia its still slipping... i don't know what to do about it.
I have also had problems with the interior. The wood grain cracked on the center console and the cupholders are jammed and won't come out.
I've had tonssssss of problems with my 2001. To start off, the trans went out at about 60k. Dealer replaced it admitting it was a factory defect. They "put in a new one" which the leaked trans fluid the day after the "new" one was put in. The second trans went out. The one the dealer installed was cracked. To fix the crack they used plain old silicone, which didn't work. Now I'm into my 3rd trans. Besides the trans, the airbag sensor blinks. The dealer cannot solve this matter. I've brought it to them about 20 times. And besides that, the motor went out at 103k. Wanna calculate how much I've spent so far!??? TOOOO DAMN MUCH!.. car sucks! wouldn't recomend it to any one.
I've had all problems listed above
2001 Mazda Millenia
Engine light on for knock sensor was changed about a year ago ($500 to fix)
Now I have 55000 miles and the transmission went out. The dealer is asking for $3500 to change it.
I bought this car new and it has been giving me nothing, but problems that are very expensive to fix.
I am not sure how to convince the dealer that it is a defect.
I have a 2001 model and also have had to rebuil then replace the transmission, I have to replace the 02 sensors as well and have another sensor that need replaced, but not sure which one it is??? the car is beautiful, but runs like crap! I'm sure once all major work is done maybe itll be better??
I own a 2001 Millenia and have had two reoccuring problems:
1. Knock sensor: As been replaced at least 5 times. Luckily I complained loud enough to Mazda and they repaired it for free 4 times, but the last time I had to pay a flat fee of $100. This is an OBVIOUS defect in the car, although they refuse to admit it.
2. Door lock actuator: I have replaced the passanger door actuator twice... once at full price to me and once at the flat "coutesy" rate of $100. However it has gone out again and I just fired off an email to Mazda demanding a free repair.
Overall, the car has been great and I haven't had the other problems others have mentioned.
I have enjoyed my Mazda Millenia. I bought a pre-owned 2001 Millenia in 2004 and had to replace my O2 sensor a couple of days after it was purchased. Also, I'm experiencing bad gas mileage. Has anyone experienced the same problem in regards to gas mileage?
I own a 2001 Mazda Millenia S since November 2005 (purchased with 56,000 miles on it). I started to have an engine light problem during last winter, but it went away. As of a few weeks ago (approx. two weeks), the engine light indicator is back on and after driving the car for a while (not at a high rate of speed or running the AC) I am getting a TCS and TCS Off light indications on the dash with a jerking motion as soon as these two additional lights come on. I have to stop the car, turn it off and turn it back on to clear the two TCS light indicators. This is very risky especially while driving on a highway. Mind you, the engine light indicator remains on after I restart the car. Since this has been occurring, the car has not shut down on me (I now have 60,000 plus miles on it). Also, after I running the AC for a moment, a foul, rotten-egg type smell comes through the vents. I don't know if this is connected to the engine light issue or something separate entirely. Lastly, since the engine light has been on, I feel a drag in the car's performance. It is currently being serviced and through my research, the engine light situation seems to be a common issue with Millenia S types. Any comments or suggestions regarding my situation will be very helpful since I know very little about automobile engines and the like.
I am currently having problems with my 2001 Millenia. The knock sensor problem came and went, didn't bother changing it. The "jerking" motion is what I'm going through right now and I and being told that it is the transmission solenoids a, b, and c. motor has 90K+ and doing fine.
I have owned a 2000 Millenia since 2003 and 25K miles. It now has 85,000 miles on it. I have replaced every door lock actuator at a cost of $400 each. I also replaced the knock sensor at a cost of $600. I did learn that you absolutely must use 91 octane gas or the sensor will burn out every time. Otherwise, it's been a good car. Any suggestions on the locks would be appreciated.
I purchased a used 99 S'. It has given me nothing, but problems from day one. Valve Stem Seals $2500, Exhaust manifold three seperate times in a 6 month period $1600, Supercharger $3000, Transmission is slipping and now the Engine Knock Sensor light is on which is gonna coast atleast another $2000. This car is a piece of crap. And parts are beyond hard to find for this car. Never by a Mazda. Stick with Honda's you can run them in to the ground and fix them relatively quick, parts are a dime a dozen.
I have a 2000 Mazda Millenia. I, too, had to replace the knock sensor and do a whole bunch of other repairs that cost me about $3000. Today, the check engine light started flashing, which means--service needed asap. I got the car at 40k miles and I currently have about 78k on it. Thus far, it has been a pretty good car, but it's starting to become a financial burden. It was very low maintenance for awhile, but now it is being problematic. I am just hoping that this latest issue isn't going to be too expensive... I won't know the latest damage ($$) until tomorrow. But the knock sensor was definitely a problem for me too. I do always put 91 or 92 octane gas in the car--this seems to be important--don't skimp on gas at the pump.
I bought my 2001 Mazda Millenia S brand new. The car was fine as long as it was under warranty. But lately, I've been faced with expensive, major repairs. The car has just over 81,000 miles and I have had problems since it went over 60,000 miles. Mind you, this is a car that has had every scheduled maintenance and oil change. I have never used less than 91 octane gas and these problems persist. I have spend no less than $5,000 in the past year outside of routine maintenance and today I was given an estimate of over $2,300 for my front/left catalytic converter, an oxygen sensor (the dealership STILL can't tell me which one went bad), and an EGR flow service. Parts are impossible to find and very little can be done after market, which makes you prey for the dealership every time. Of course, the catalytic converter is under warranty for 8 years/80,000 miles. How coincidental is it that mine when out at 81,000 miles? This information was given to me by a muffler shop, not the dealership. My rear/right catalytic converter was replaced just a year ago. I was told by the same muffler shop that the catalytic converters were not built to handle the power and emissions of the Miller Cycle engine.
In addition to the above problems, I have had to replace a right CV axle, a leaking tensioner, and multiple drive belts. The timing belt was replaced at 60,000 miles as recommended in the owner's manual, which was another expensive repair. Again, all this has occurred in the past 12 months.
The engine light is frequently on and the airbag light has been flashing intermittently for the past 500 miles. The dealership can't seem to find this problem and I don't find that comforting. The Miller Cycle engine runs like a dream (when the light isn't on) but many mechanics aren't familiar with how to repair it. Mazda has a habit of changing their models without consideration how those who have discontinued models will have them repaired.
My intention was to keep the Millenia until my 14-year-old daughter begins to drive. With the various mechanical issues, I plan to just trade it now before something else major goes wrong with it.
2001 Mazda Millenia. I bought it December 15, 2006 with 81k miles. Engine light came on before I got it home. Dealer made it good and put a Cat and 02 sensor on it. Light came back on and I put another 02 sensor on it (it has 4 of them). Now the light is back on again. This time a "misfire code" according to AutoZone. Plugs are clean and I've put injector cleaner in the gas. Everything I read on the internet says it is either: plugs or wires, vacuum lines or injectors. I have also read some have checked/replaced all of these and still the light comes back on. Has anyone had this problem and what was your solution? Thanks.
I have a 2001 Mazda Millenia. I bought it new in 2001, the day I picked it up from the dealer the engine light was on and the code was misfire. The dealer cleared it, but the light comes on every time the car is started for less than a couple of minutes. The drivers seat heater only worked for 1 winter. I had to replace 1 O2 sensor and the knock sensor.
Replaced the timing belt at 100,000 miles per maintenance scheduie and all the pulleys the timing belt touched, the engine was noisy before, but after it ran quite. The transmission has been slipping from 1st to 2nd from 5000 miles til now the dealer said it was normal, but its what I hate the most about driving it. About the misfire the dealer said I was using the wrong gas I was using 92 octane
they said I should be using 87 octane, I showed him the manual and the fuel door that is clearly label 91 octane or higher. I never went back to the dealer for service again.
I have a 2002 Millenia S with the Miller Cycle Engine. Have had 0 problems until 112,000 miles. Now the head gasket is blown and the dealers say they will not replace it on this engine. Replacing it only causes more problems. Only hope is to spend $10,000 for a new engine.
Any thoughts?