2000 SAAB 9-3 from North America - Comments

My engine seized at 80000 miles. Got a letter from Saab on recall due to engine sludge. After several weeks negotiating with Saab and locating service records they agreed to replace the engine free of charge. I still had to pay $250.00 diagnosis fee to the dealer and over $900.00 for rental car for two months. The problem was their fault, but it still cost me a lot of time and money. The only reason Saab probably replaced the engine is my husband is an Attorney. Seemed to be the key to getting them to respond.

Now the car won't start unexpectedly for several hours, then magically starts again - no explanation. Dealer can't locate the problem- no surprise.

This car is unreliable and Saab service is terrible.

A common problem with the Saab 9-3 automatic is a bad contact in the neutral safety switch which will keep the car from starting in anything other than park or neutral. It's location in the engine compartment causes the continuity of the contact to decrease once the engine warms. After letting it set for a while the switch will wake up again allowing the car to start. The real unfortunate part is the price of the switch which is about 4 times the cost of one for any other vehicle about $350-$400.

Your symptoms could also be due to faulty CPS lead (crank position sensor)

This is a diy fix (i did mine) and the part is around £70 from uk dealers.

I say diy,,,, if you own a turbo model change the CPS when engine is cold or you'll end up with 3rd degree burns OUCH!, the CPS entering the engine block is very close to the exhaust/turbo manifold.

To the person who had a bad contact in the neutral safety switch, here is a cheap fix for the problem. Buy a inexpensive momentary contact switch, (for about $2.00) and run wire from starter up through the firewall to the dash. Mount the switch on dash or steering column with velcro and run another wire back through the firewall to the battery. All you need do is turn on the key and touch the momentary contact switch and starter will work every time. This will fix your problem for less than %5.00.

It works every time...

I need some help. The problem I have is similar to the one mentioned here about the car stopping willy-nilly!

I have a 2000 9-3 which has been stopping at will (not mine) and then it will not restart until it feels like doing it. Problem is that this happens usually when I am on the road and I start slowing down and then it dies. I noticed the other day that when it does this, the tach starts fluttering up and down and if I can't get into neutral and accelerate, then it dies. This has happened in both hot and cold weather and whether I just started the car or it has been running for hours. It has never stopped (luckily) when I have been in the freeway, but two days I go, I felt the car chocking as I was on the Interstate and it slowed down considerably! Luckily it picked up again once I stepped on the gas, but I am concerned if this happens when there are cars behind me and I get rear-ended by someone.

Do you have any ideas what could be done to fix this? The local "Specialist" has changed the gas filter, has checked it with his computer, but has not been able to come up with a solution to the problem.

I would really appreciate any help you could give me.

Thanks!

SAAB 9-3 convertible - sludge problem killed my engine! This seems to be a common theme with this car and now the car is worthless, no signs to tell you it's coming, but the expense is huge - you get the knocking noise and then the car simply dies and you get the lovely news "you need an engine" and everywhere I look the prices are staggering - car is not worth it -have had nothing, but problems since the day I bought it -never again! built from jets huh? I'll never fly a saab jet that's for sure.

I've had my 2000 Saab 9-3 for ~5 months now. I've put ~6k miles on it and so far have not encountered a single problem with the car. It runs wonderfully, looks great, is easy to work on, including many fun DIY projects including custom grills, removal of badges and removal of side yellow turn signal indicators. The engine had been serviced properly for the entirety of it's life, which is probably why it runs so well. Occasional use of octane booster as well as running the car hard every once in a while will help prevent sludge problems.

I have a 2000 9.3 convertible. Heard of the sludge problem. I got the knocking noise and the screen was dirty. I had it towed in to the deal because Saab said only they could determine if it was due to sludge. Well they diagnosed it and said that it wasn't due to sludge. Although I am having the engine replaced now due to the sludge problem ruined the whole engine. Too bad there is nothing we can do about this problem.

I need a new block now does anyone know how much that cost?

Please help me

Donna.

I would have it towed back to the dealer but I feel that I’m wasting my time and money. 2000 Saab SE Convertible 5 speed manual 2.0L Turbo – Not running.

At the 100K service this year, the local Saab Dealer replaced the DI cassette and fuel line clips on a recall. Dealer also replaced fuel filter and a transmission bracket, replaced battery and reset check engine light.

Next trip dealer replaced alternator. Each time for awhile after the maintenance the car runs great, the turbo (see turbo in next paragraph) spins up; good boost pressure, just fun to drive. Park it; lock it and the next time you get into the car it will not start, cranks but will not start.

Last week, a foreign car repair shop that specializes in Saab, all systems performed within specs; printout showed turbo, battery, alternator, and etc. all within range. Drove to work with the top down and a smile on my face; after being parked 8 hours (in the sun) the car would not start. I went to a local bar and waited for a ride. When my ride arrived a couple hours later, I tried the car on a whim and it started. I drove home easy and parked. The next morning it did not crank. That afternoon, I replaced the DIC with a new one ordered before the recall. Car started; drove my 92 year old neighbor around the neighborhood, took him home and parked. Car started minutes later when I returned home (less than 100 yards). Parked and locked car, only the next morning it is not starting again. I replaced the DIC with the one the dealer had replaced, leaving the battery disconnected during replacement and 5 minutes after replacement. Reset system by holding all three buttons on the remote while inside locked car. Car will not start.

Help, I am at my wits end. I see where many many other Saab owners are or have experienced the same starting problem. Has anyone ever really discovered a correction that will last?

Please help, I have spent literally days researching the internet and it seems that this is a common problem with this model and no one seems to have an answer.

My next step is to learn how to replace the CPS (Crank Position Sensor?) but I’m not sure where it is? I haven’t been able to locate a shop manual for this model. My previous Saab an OLD 900 Turbo was a great car; l had a shop manual and could usually handle most repair work. It’s sad that the Saab name is being tarnished by these cars and the lack of concern by GM.

Can someone please help me. I have a Saab 93 (2004). I have the same problems as other owners. The Saab has a mind of its own. Some days it will start with no issues, at times, when you try to restart it after a period of time, it will not start. This issue may go on for 3 - 4 days when it will not start at all. After leaving it from anything from 3 hours to 3 days, it may start again. The car is very unreliable. I have left it with the Saab dealer to get checked over and they were unable to detect any problems.

My Saab story is a bit different than some of these, but with a similar conclusion - lots of time and money poured into a car that continues to break down. I bought my 200 9-3 used with 71K miles and figured out pretty quickly that I had a bad car with a sludge problem. OK, my bad for being a fool. I tried all kinds of things, including an engine flush, but the damage had already been done to the cylinders. After much gnashing of teeth I decided to have the engine rebuilt, which cost over $7000. Less than 1000 miles later, the electrical started flaking out - first the ignition switch, then the windshield washer pump and then problems with the car not starting. Last week, the transmission stopped working altogether. This is not the limp-home mode by the way, it doesn't work - period. If you have a failing Saab, my advice is to part the thing out before it separates you from more of your money.

Older Saabs never had this so called sludge problem. The problem is the oil pickup screen is so fine that if you delay in doing religious oil changes every 3000 miles, the screen clogs, oil starvation engine kaput. The screen spacing on older Saabs are much bigger, less apt to clog. Keep in mind this is slow engine death.

I am having a weird problem and not sure what/where it's coming from. Suddenly my turn signals, front lights, back/brake lights, windows, sunroof and wipers have just gone on me. Had a look at some of the fuses and it doesn't seem to be that - any thoughts from anyone?

My 2003 Saab 9-3 Convertible has been a fantastic car - no problems - good dealer service.