Comments: 1-15, 16-20
1. Rotors turned or replaced at every pad change (18k miles)!
2. Dumb cork valve cover gaskets drooling oil at 51K - expensive replacement "upgrade".
3. Heat shields on the exhaust falling off at 52K (strapped back on with stainless hose clamps).
4. Various switch failures.
5. Mad rust in the rear rocker panels.
6. Air conditioner condenser leak (no wreck) at 75K.
7. Transmission rebuild at 70K. Front diff rebuild at 70K (4WD not abused!).
8. Transfer case failure at 120K.
I kept it too long, but always felt I should hang on after a big repair. Now I have a 4Runner - much nicer all around.
Preventive maintenance will take care of a lot of problems...
If you don't RIDE your brakes, they will last, learn to use your gears, that's what they are there for, don't be afraid to use 2nd gear down hills, it saves your brakes.
I did oil changes every 3500 miles. Transmission fluid and differential oil changes every 15k.
I've driven many cars and trucks over 100K miles, never had brake problems. Never replaced a clutch before 130K miles, don't 'ride' the brakes.
Nope, that Exploder was just a big old RAT!
I don't understand. My 1992 Explorer has 274,000 miles on the original motor, heads, water pump...
I do admit to third set of rotors (live in Sierras).
All in all this is the best truck I have ever owned. Bought it new with 2 miles on it for 19,000. I will never dis this truck.
I have a 1992 Explorer XLT that I just purchased. It has 185,000 miles on the original engine, and that is saying lots for being through the rough South Dakota winters. I am very happy with it, though. It looks brand new, the engine still runs smoothly and quietly. I've said this many times, no matter what make or model you buy, there will always be a few lemons.
I am the unfortunate owner of a 92 XLT Exploder. After going through 3 transmissions in 1999, a trip from Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. to Durango, Colorado. I have had enough of this, just cannot feel good selling my problems to someone else. I would like to drop it off at Mr. Fords house and let him have it for a while. Two months ago my overdrive went, when I phoned the dealership, they told me not to drive in overdrive, just the drive position. I drive mostly highway miles, and it is slpping and takes 15 minutes to warm up. Never again Ford.
Frank in Canada.
1992 Ford Explorer XL, manual transmission, 4WD.
Bought it at 245k for only CD$5500.
Still running strong at 285k.
Replaced most of the transmission, the clutch and the front wheel hubs. Despite the repairs which are no surprise to me after so many kilometers, I take my hat off for this car.
Driving in it makes you feel the King of the Road.
Bottom line: this car rocks!
I, too, own a '92 Ford Explorer XLT... hmmm
With as hard as I ride it, I am surprised it hasn't blown up! lol
I got it used a couple of years ago with 238k on it... It's only at 255k now, but when I got it, the tranny was gone-ish... (it gets sicker every day), the heat shield is gone... (but if I turn up the radio REALLY loud I can't tell), other than that that, no major problems... and aside from the really bad gas mileage, it gets me from point a to b.
I own a 92 ford explorer and the transmission burnt out yesterday. IF anyone knows how much it would cost to get a new one please email me. goko9999@hotmail.com.
I would really appreciate it.
Thank you,
Charmaine.
I own a 1992 Ford Explorer and LOVE it! It has only 83K miles on it, no major problems, we keep it maintained regularily. I have spent half as much $$$ maintaining this SUV as I have a 1997 Nissan Maxima w/100K miles... I just unloaded $530 yesterday to the Nissan dealer for parts only. we are having our mechanic do the labor on Maximato save some $$. Foreign cars are too expensive to maintain, you can't buy a lot of parts "over the counter", and get hood-winked into having to have the dealer do everything. So I'm keeping my Explorer. It is a great car, except for the AC and gas mileage.
I own a 92 Explorer, currently 275,000 kilometers. Up until now, I hadn't spent $800 on it since purchasing it in 1993 in maintenance ie. front rotors, fuel pump, brake pads & shoes and transmission flush.
I have just had the ring gear and front brake hoses replaced for $1,100.00, plus I still need a lower seal replaced in the power steering pump and new front rotors. This has been a great vehicle and really doesn't owe me anything.
I figure it works out to about a $133.00 per year in maintenance and repairs, which is a deal.
91 Explorer, manual, 125k, rocker rust, failed gas gauge, warped heads at 99k: this is used as my "boat" car as I am in the mobile marine business. The clutch has engaged for years at its far outer pedal limit. Lately it has been "eating" starters. I have put up with the clutch b/c it didn't seem dire or all that necessary. Repairers have lusted to put in a clutch for $1200 +/- and tell me now that the ring gears are what eats the starters. Now they say I need all: ring gears, clutch, starter, etc. For $1600 ? Anyone out there can can help confirm with starter issue with ring gear experience ??
Occasionally you will end up with a lemon, but that doesn't always mean they are all bad. Having said that, if you can't do preventative maintenance yourself, then expect your vehicle to break down.
I've a had a couple of Explorers, the latest is a '93 with 146000Km's and a manual trans, and never had any UNEXPECTED mechanical problems. That could be because I'm a mechanic, but any person should know what type of maintenance their car requires and what potential problems might come up.
Ford automatics (A4LD) in the SUV's and light trucks are light duty units, so expect problems if you tow heavy loads, especially in the summer. Don't blame Ford, just buy a full size truck that's meant for that sort of thing.
When buying a used Explorer, get it checked at a reputable shop BEFORE you buy it, especially if it has an automatic. That way you can avoid potential problems.
Yes, maintenance is the key!
For example:
Sometimes the pinion gear seal in the differential leaks a little. No big deal if you check the differential fluid level every 12,000 miles, and add a couple ounces of gear oil, and change the fluid every 60,000 miles like the Haynes Manual says. Big deal if you never bother to check it and run it a quart (30%) or two (67%) low for 120,000 miles. Result, burned-out differential and endless whining -- by the owner, that is.
Ditto for the transfer case. The output shaft seals leak a little bit. No big deal if you check it every 12,000 miles and add a couple ounces of Mercon, and change the fluid every 60,000 miles. Big deal if you never check it or change it. Result, lots of metal shavings, worn out gears, and expensive repairs.
Ditto for the transmission. Change the transmission fluid and filter (NO FLUSH!!!) every 30,000 miles, refilling it with the CORRECT type of Mercon fluid (Not Dexron, not "Mercon is all the same", not "whatever's closest to the candy bars on the shelf"). Mercon I, II, III, IV, and V are all different.
Don't tow boats and trailers with a V-6, you'll ruin the transmission. In heavy city traffic, and climbing hills on backroads, turn off the O/D.
I have a 1992 Explorer with auto transmission and push-button t-case and auto hubs. I bought it in 2001 with 60,000 miles on it from the original owner, who really took good care of it. I had to replace the brake pads and rotors right away because of a rock that got jammed in the left front while camping. I used good rotors (not off-shore cheap-o stuff) and still have lots left after 7 years and 80k more miles. I ran full synthetic oil in it and a quality filter (nothing orange). It costs more, but if you do it yourself, it costs about the same as if you go to a quick change place for cheap bulk stuff. I tell you this to relate another story. At 120,000 miles, the vacuum modulator ($30 part) failed on my transmission, causing it to lose oil almost instantly - a fluke, but that's life. I yarded out the engine and transmission, sent transmission to good re-builder, and decided "hey, it's getting up there in miles, why not fresh this engine up with a set of rings, bearings, seals and gaskets?" When I took it apart, it was so clean you could eat off it. No sludge build-up, no metal bits or corroded balls of coolant or any of the things that you would expect to see on an old motor - not even scoring on the cylinder walls. I sealed her all back up, and away we went. I have never had any problems with this truck other than the transmission thing, and I put 6000 miles on it a month later without any problems. I am very tall, and this truck seats me very comfortably. I will keep on using good quality maintenance parts, and it will treat me right in return.
We own a used, high mileage 1992 Ford Explorer XLT that we bought in 2004. The steering wheel is leaking a black tar-like substance. Is this very common? What causes it? Is this problem limited to Explorers?
While driving, smoke poured from the vents while running a/c, this seems to be a common problem for this year Explorer.
At start up one morning, the rear windshield wiper came on by itself and I could not get it to turn off. Had to remove wiper from vehicle. Have not seen this problem listed anywhere yet.
We've had to replace the transmission and brakes and make other repairs, but these things are to be expected in an older, high mileage vehicle.