1999 GMC Envoy from North America - Comments

Nothing in the short time I've owned it - it really seems to be a great low-mileage find.

The previous owner barely drove this vehicle - she only put about 3000 miles on it in two years. The vehicle only has a total of 50,400 miles on the odometer, which was carfax certified.

Now, this is a first-generation Envoy, which was first introduced in 1998 as a ultra-luxury version of the Jimmy, Blazer, and Bravada. Production of this early model Envoy was discontinued in 2000, to make way for the newly designed Trailblazer/Bravada/Envoy platform which was released in mid-2001 as an early 2002 model.

It comes standard with power everything - windows, locks, mirrors (which are auto-dimming and also fold in parallel to the vehicle at the touch of a button, for extra tight parking spots and those awkward moments when you get too close to a drive up ATM). The interior is two-tone leather, and has heated power adjustable front seats with memory feature that can also be programmed into the key fob so that the seat resets to your preferences when you hit the unlock button - very nice feature for after my wife has been driving it. There is also an air compressor outlet in the rear of the vehicle with an 18 foot hose, to inflate a flat tire, air mattress, sports ball, etc. There is an overhead information center that shows a compass, the current estimated gas mileage, fuel range, total gallons used, and trip meter. It also sports a 6-disc CD changer with Bose audio, AutoTrac 4-wheel drive, and very bright bluish-white Xenon High Intensity Discharge low beams (which are every bit as bright as the halogen high beams, just aimed a bit lower to avoid blinding other drivers). The dash and consoles are well laid out and easy to reach from a comfortable position.

Initial driving impressions are pretty good. The vehicle handles quite crisply at lower speeds, but remember, this is an SUV - quick turns or lane changes at higher speeds will make unaccustomed drivers nervous due to the higher amount of body roll. Body roll is further exaggerated by the soft ZW7 luxury suspension package with Bilstien shocks up front and self-leveling Delphi air struts in the rear. This package provides a wonderfully smooth ride on surface roads and highways, but will jar you just as much as any other suspension package in an off-road environment.

At first, the engine in this vehicle seemed a little underpowered and sluggish off the line. However, this is no sports car, and the truck-based 4.3L Vortec is designed more for torque and pulling power as opposed to blinding speed. About 250 lb/ft of torque to be exact, which peaks at just under 2800 RPM. Horsepower peaks just shy of the 200 mark at 4400 RPM, but the higher torque rating should make excellent use of the vehicle's 5000 pound towing capacity this summer when the jet-skis go back into the water. That extra power comes with a trade off though, which is (as I'm sure you've guessed), crappy gas mileage.

I can say that going from a 3800 V6 powered Bonneville (which I still own) to a more powerful 4.3L Vortec V6 powered SUV, there is a noticeable decrease in gas mileage. This is to be expected with an SUV, but I'm getting much less than the EPA-estimated mileage of 16 city and 20 highway. I'm getting an average of 16.5 mpg highway right now according to the info display. Now, before you respond saying "well get your foot off the gas and drive more sensibly", I'll have you know that I'm a police officer - I take it very, very easy in my vehicles, usually going no more than the speed limit or maybe 5mph over on the highway. I've seen far too many fatal accidents - speeding just isn't worth it. Regardless, it seems as though I'm filling the tank every three or four days. This shocked me at first, but the first time I put gas in it, the tank was on empty... after 25 bucks, it was pretty close to full. The tank on this thing is SMALL, about 13 gallons I think. Gas goes quick, but it's mostly due to a combination of the so-so mileage AND the small tank, not the mileage alone. Comparatively, I have to put nearly 40 dollars in the Bonneville to fill it up, so all things considered, it's not great, but it isn't horrible either.

I had all of the fluids flushed the second day I owned it, just to be safe. I keep very close maintenance records on my cars, and like to start fresh every time I buy a used vehicle because you just never know about the previous owner's maintenance habits. Next on this list is new plugs and wires to see if that helps the mileage any. I've already ordered a K&N Generation II intake system for it, which should also help the mileage when I get it installed.

Another cool thing is that the Envoy also comes standard with GM's "AutoTrac" 4WD system and two-speed transfer case. This means that by simply pushing a button on the dash, the vehicle can be in one of these four drive modes:

1. 2-Hi. Standard rear wheel drive only, front axle disengaged. What you see is what you get, nothing fancy. Best gas mileage out of the four, good for traveling on dry roads/highways.

2. 4-Hi. Four wheel drive in the high range. Front and rear axles engaged with a 50-50 power split. This is for bad road conditions like mud, snow, or sand, or towing light to medium loads such as a boat or jetski trailer. Decreases gas mileage slightly.

3. 4-Low. This is for pulling extremely heavy loads, or going through serious off road trails that require S-L-O-W travel. Not at all designed for high speeds - you better know what your doing if you're using this setting on the road, to avoid messing up your transfer case/transmission. Gas mileage suffers moderately in this setting.

4. Auto 4WD. This is a cool feature for questionable road conditions that could get worse, like a bad snowstorm. This setting will engage the front axles, but drivetrain power is still completely routed to the rear wheels. When the engine's ECU senses wheel slippage, it splits the power 50-50 between the front and rear wheels, just like 4-Hi - but will stop putting power to the front wheels as soon as the ECU feels that it's no longer necessary, reverting back to regular 2WD. Slightly worse gas mileage than regular 2-Hi, but not nearly as bad as either of the full time 4WD settings.

All in all, this is an option filled vehicle that is the perfect combination of American styling and European luxury. If you can find one with low mileage like I did, you'll get quite a lot of vehicle for not a lot of money. Buy one, you won't be disappointed!

One thing that I failed to mention in the initial review is that I wasn't suggesting using the 4WD modes for everyday towing on dry pavement. I was referring to adverse conditions WHILE towing, which would require the use of the 4WD system. Somehow, I just didn't complete the thought when I was writing the review. Normal towing would be handled just fine in 2-Hi, using a low gear. Sorry if that made me sound a little dumb-dumbish, I really am smarter than that when it comes to using four wheel drive ;-)

I would have to disagree with you on the 13 gallon tank. I know that it is an 18 gallon tank. I know the fuel gauge says that it is empty, but there is really still about 3 to 4 gallons in it. I drove about 30 miles while my gauge was right on the line and when I filled up I put in about 16-17 gallons of gas in. After this I researched on Internet and found that it is an 18 gallon tank. I am also please with my Envoy. Mine is the 1998 which is the first year it came out. I have installed a custom Magnaflow® exhaust, Denso® iridium spark plugs, Hypertech® programmer, and an air intake and I have also noticed more power and better gas mileage. It is a great vehicle.

We've never had even a hint of trouble with our 2003 Envoy in 42,000 miles. It feels like it did the day we bought it and we'd not hesitate to buy another one.

You're right about the gas tank, I did a little reasearch myself and found out that it was an 18 gallon tank. The fuel sending unit is bad on my Envoy, which is sending faulty readings to the gas gauge - this explains why it appears to eat gas so badly. It's an expensive fix, so I'm leaving it alone for now.

I'll have to look into getting the hypertech unit... but a Gibson exhaust system is looking like a good buy for this vehicle.

It's a faulty fuel sending unit.

I have had a 99 and 2000 Savana, both with this same issue. I've researched the internet to find 1000's of complaints, but very few to GM. People need to call GM and complain! Then maybe they'd figure out there's a problem. Without data from customers, GM won't do squat for those of us that do call them. They assume there's no problem because few people call and complain. Even if you do it yourself or go to an independent mechanic, call GM customer service 800 462-8782 and tell them your issue.

I have a 99 Envoy with 85,000 miles. Had it close to a year and it runs great. I had to put an alternator and water pump in it. Right now my check 4wd light comes on when I'm in 4wd. The truck will not switch back to 2hi until I restart the truck. I have been getting different review from different shops about what the plm is. So I just stay in 2hi with no plm. I have 18" goodrich kds gforce tires that are very sticky in rain so I haven't needed 4wd. It don't snow much around here. I get 16 mpg around city, but 20.5 hwy on long trips, almost 400 miles on a tankfull. I ususally drive bout 75 mph in cruise mode on those long trip. All in all, I am happy with the truck compared to my '96 Jimmy SLT.

Follow up on my 99 Envoy...k&n intake kit (100.00 on ebay) Gibson exhaust (130.00 on ebay). U can feel the power at take off and high end. Mid range need improvement, how will I do that? I will figure it out. A lot more thoatier sound tho not like a V8 but better than stock. Gas mileages improve even tho my foot heavy. Have not taken a long trip yet. Old city driving, 16 mpg, now 18 mpg. Old hwy driving 20.5 mpg, new???, planning a trip soon, 800 miles round trip.

I have a 2005 GMC Envoy. The fuel gauge started acting funny and eventually stopped reading all together. The dealership insisted I install a new fuel module consisting of the fuel pump, housing, 2 fuel sending unit connectors and the actual fuel sending switch (level sensor) or float. Over $800. I explained that I drove it to the dealership but apparently they didn't hear me right because they continued to insist the fuel pump was bad.

I ponied up $80 for the fuel sending switch (level sensor) online. Because of all the horror stories it took me about 3 months after getting it before I took the leap. A few things I learned.

1. Use something to lower the tank if you do it yourself. I used my motorcycle jack. I've heard of others using transmission jacks but I'm willing to bet you have or know someone with a motorcycle jack where as you may not know someone with a tranny jack.

Put tie down straps around the tank and your jack to stabilize it.

2. Drain the tank. You can buy kits at an auto parts store for cheap. Your neighbors will love you and you can fill up your lawn mower among other things. Run it low first. I left a half tank and it proved challenging.

3. Use compressed air around the lock ring on top the tank to clear all dirt and debris.

4. Check under the seat for an access panel. I hear some have them now. Mine didn't.

5. Loosen the gas cap to relieve fuel pressure.

6. Remove the negative battery terminal.

7. Before removing the fuel pump, use an ohm meter on the sending switch connector after disconnecting it to see if the switch is bad. There are 4 terminals. It's located on top the fuel tank so you do need to drop the tank first. Test both sets. If both sets don't work you have more than one problem. If both sets work good, chances are you don't need to remove the fuel pump and need to look elsewhere for your problem.

8. The lock ring did not have a lock tab as the Hanes manual indicated. A website suggested I use a special wrench like you use on a flywheel. I used a hammer and flat head screw driver. They are on there tight. Hit it hard.

9. Always replace the seal. My seal looked just fine but it doesn't matter. Replace it.

10. When removing the fuel module, I couldn't get it to come no matter how I twisted it. It has a base to it attached by 4 anchor tabs. Pull all four anchor tabs back and force the base off so it fits through the hole in the gas tank. Then remove the base. You can put them both back in together but getting them out is difficult together.

11. Once you have it out, test the connector again and this time change the position of the float up and down while your probes are connected. See if you get any connection. If you don't, you are on track.

12. Slide the fuel level sensor off the housing and slide the new one one. Connect it back up and put everything back together.

I'm not a mechanic and with the right information going into this I probably could have accomplished it in 1 to 2 hours. It turned in to a whole day but it works again!! And I saved over $700.

I hope this helps.